WORDS & PHOTOS:
JOHN R. DEAN &
SAM N. DEAN

Paddling the west of Scotland

Some of the most memorable places to paddle in the UK are in the west of Scotland. An iconic paddling location is defined by a unique blend of visual drama, historical significance, and a ‘bucket-list’ quality that sets it apart from an average day on the water. Whilst the term iconic is certainly subjective, many locations share some core characteristics:

• Features that are instantly recognisable in a photograph.
• Environments that offer something rare or very different, due to their unique geology or ecosystem.
• Places with a significant cultural or historical status.
• Locations that can offer dramatic visual juxtapositions, such as paddling through Caribbean-looking turquoise water while surrounded by mountains.

In the first of a two-part series, we look at five of our choices of iconic paddling locations in the West of Scotland and see if you agree (or not). And if you have not yet visited any of them, why not plan a visit soon?

1. Loch Lomond
The magnificent Loch Lomond, part of the Trossachs National Park, is the largest lake in Great Britain by surface area. It has easy road access from the major conurbation of Glasgow and the motorway network. This can be an issue, creating an area of outstanding natural beauty that can get a little crowded at times.

Two of the starting points for any open water paddling are Luss (on the west side) and Balloch (on the south side). The stunning loch scenery is set against the impressive Ben Lomond, the most southerly of the Munros (Munro is the name given to Scottish mountains over 3000 feet; in this case, it is 3196 feet or 974 m). Loch Lomond has 22 islands of different sizes.

A great paddle for exploring the islands is between Luss and Balloch (you can launch and park at either point). For example, starting at Balloch, you can visit Inchmurrin or pass it by, then choose from the islands of Inchailloch, Inchfad, Inchcruin, Inchmoan, Inchtavannach, and Inchconnachan.

The island of Inchconnachan, having the very unexpected presence of red-necked wallabies, is often referred to as ‘wallaby island’. The wallabies were introduced by the Countess of Arran (Fiona Bryde Colquhoun) in the late 1940s. While they are both an unusual sight and a delight to see, please respect that this is their habitat.

Note: The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 ensures that you have freedom to wild camp in many locations in Scotland. However, due to visitor numbers and proximity to major conurbations, Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park has restrictions. Most of the loch shore falls inside Camping Management Zones. In practice, this means that from 1 March to 30 September, wild camping without a permit is banned. The options are to purchase a permit to wild camp (or book on a campsite). (www.lochlomond-trossachs.org/things-to-do/camping/get-a-permit/).

Outside of that time, no restrictions apply, but you must comply with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, as elsewhere in Scotland.

Recommendation: Great for a single day, or you can easily make it into a multiday expedition.

2. Great Glen: Fort William to Inverness
The Great Glen Canoe Trail runs from coast to coast, with a start at its southwest edge at Fort William, and it runs northeast to Inverness. The Great Glen is a natural geological fault line that runs for 60 miles (95 km) and has formed the Caledonian Canal, Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and the iconic Loch Ness. The entire Great Glen Canoe Trail takes between three and five days and offers the opportunity for sailing, as well as wild and loch-side camping. Do check out ‘The Great Glen Canoe Trail’ for helpful guidance and a downloadable map for paddling on both the canal and open water.

The canal loch gates and facilities are maintained by Scottish Canals, and with prior planning, you can contact them for a key to use the facilities along the route (there are rules for this, which you would need to contact them about). Also, they provide signage and ramps/pontoons for boat access and egress.

The beginning (or end, depending upon wind direction) at Fort William starts at Banavie with a portage alongside Neptune’s Staircase (a series of locks, 19th-century engineering by Thomas Telford at its finest).

This series of eight interconnected locks that lift motorised canal boats nearly 21 metres (70 feet) up the Caledonian Canal is the longest staircase lock (457 m or 500 yards) in Great Britain. Take a moment to look back down the staircase before launching at the top.

Paddle onwards along the canal, passing through Moy Swing Bridge and Gairlochy Swing Bridge, and portaging the Gairlochy Loch. This is easily done on the left-hand bank before the swing bridge, then by portaging over the swing bridge and down the other side, past the facilities and pontoons on the right-hand side of the canal.

Then you enter the first major open expanse of water, Loch Lochy. Loch Lochy is a steep-sided (fjord-like) loch, and if you paddle on its western edge, you can feel quite remote as the main road (A82) is on the east side. At its northern end, Loch Lochy enters the small loch of Ceann Loch.

Another portage, at Laggan Lock, and onwards along the canal. After passing under the A82 and Laggan Swing Bridge, you now enter Loch Oich. For remoteness, you can now paddle on the east side of the Loch (the main road A82 now tracks along the western side). About halfway along the Loch, you will pass the ruin of Invergarry Castle on the west side and the widest point of the Loch. This castle was the home (or seat) of the Chiefs of Clan MacDonell of Glengarry, a powerful branch of Clan Donald.

Onwards to the north end of Loch Oich. At the north end, you have a choice: to paddle the River Oich or stick with the canal. The preference is to stay on the canal, as the River Oich starts with a weir and has a grade 3 section that would require helmets. The river level varies not only due to localised rainfall, but also due to water releases from the Glen Garry hydro system.

The canal has portages at Cullochy (just around the corner), Kytra and Fort Augustus, all of which can be portaged on the left-hand side. The exit of the river or canal is at Fort Augustus, and the start of Loch Ness is a 23-mile paddle. Again, for remoteness, most people will paddle on the east side of the Loch, keeping a distance from the traffic of the A82. As you pass Foyers, you continue along the east side near the B852 and General Wade’s Military Road.
Loch Ness is the largest lake by volume in the UK and world-famous as the home of the ‘Loch Ness Monster’.

Another notable sight on the west shore is the 13th-century ruin of Urquhart Castle, which is perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the deepest part of the Loch.

At the aptly named Loch End, you continue through the small expanse of water that is Loch Dochfour and the final stretch of canal. An easy option is to egress at Dochgarroch Lock with its car park and café. To complete to Muirtown Basin, continue down the canal with its swing bridges and a final set of lock gates. There is a car park here, and it is popular for those who have arranged a shuttle and pick-up. The canal then enters Beauly Firth, west of Kessock Bridge, Inverness.

Recommendation: This is a multi-day trip that can be done in either direction, depending on the prevailing wind. It is also possible to paddle a few of the lochs as part of a single-day excursion.

3. Loch Sunart
Heading north on the A82 through the magnificent Glencoe National Nature Reserve towards Fort William, take the slip road on your left to the Corran Ferry. The ferry transports you the short distance across Loch Linnhe, where you turn left and continue along the A861 towards Strontian and the head of Loch Sunart (Gaelic: Suaineart: Svein’s fjord), the longest sea loch in the Highlands at 19 miles, until it meets the Sound of Mull.

The name Strontian is the anglicised version of the Scottish Gaelic ‘Sròn an t-Sithein’, which translates to ‘Fairy point’. The village gave the mineral Strontianite its name after it was discovered nearby around 1790. An ideal place to camp is the small camping site at Strontian (Sunart Camping). With nearby access to the head of the loch, it provides plenty of opportunities for single-day trips or multi-day expeditions.

At the head of the Loch, you will see the landscape is dominated by Ben Resipole (845 m), while at Loch level, there are plenty of inlets and small islands to paddle around. By paddling on the north shore, you will eventually arrive at the inlet of Salen, or you can continue to Glenborrodale, and its interesting land-based cove.

Glenborrodale is an RSPB site famed for Wood Warblers, Redstarts, Spotted Flycatchers, Tree Pipit, Whinchat, and Raven. You are now paddling alongside the Ardnamurchan peninsula, an area of ancient woodland.

Ardnamurchan (Gaelic: Àird nam Murchan: headland of the great seas) is the home to the most westerly point of the British mainland, Corrachadh Mòr. It extends west from Salen out to Ardnamurchan Point and its famous lighthouse (built in 1849). While immediately opposite on the south side of the Loch, from Glenborrodale, is the Island of Carna and the peninsula of Oronsay.

Recommendation: The area could serve as a base for single- or multi-day expeditions.

4. Loch Shiel
A remote loch that starts at Glenfinnan (just off the main A830 Fort William to Mallaig road) near the named monument. The Glenfinnan Monument is 18 m high and was erected in 1815 as a reminder of the clansmen who gave their lives for the Jacobite cause (Bonnie Prince Charlie) in 1745. And before you have even set off to paddle the loch, you get the additional sight of the Glenfinnan Viaduct, a 21-concrete-arch viaduct that carries the train from Fort William to Mallaig. This iconic Victorian structure, built in the 1890s, is the longest concrete railway bridge in Scotland and is now universally known as the Hogwarts Express line in the Harry Potter films.

Turning to face southwest, you now have the immense spectacle of the 28 km (17-mile) long Loch Sheil. Its remoteness provides a haven for wildlife, so keep your eyes open for golden eagles, sea eagles, black-throated divers and red deer as you paddle along the shores of ancient woodland. Apart from a logger’s wood track on the east shoreline, there is no road access until you have done the long length of this J-shaped Loch. The first road access or egress point is at Polloch, which is accessible by a minor road from Strontian on Loch Sunart, a sea loch.

Onwards along Loch Shiel, you move from the long length of this J-shaped loch to its short length, but not without passing, and almost certainly stopping to take a look, at the largest island on Loch Shiel, St. Finan’s Isle. St. Finan’s Isle, also known as the Green Isle and Eilean Fhionnan, is an ancient burial ground for the chiefs of Clanranald (Moidart). The burial ground still contains many of the ancient crosses, as well as the remains of an old church (ruined since the 1700s).

Continuing west along the loch, you approach the small village of Acharacle (which has a village shop and bakery). For some, this could be the end of your trip, at the jetty at Acharacle, or return up the loch back to Glenfinnan.
The Loch Shiel Jetties Trust has introduced a Paddlers’ Access Code to allow enjoyment for all. The code proposes the following for enjoying responsible access on land:

• To respect people’s privacy by keeping a sensible distance from houses and private gardens.
• Be discreet when changing or going to the toilet.
• If wild camping, choose a spot well away from roads and buildings, and be sure to remove all traces of your camp by following the ‘leave no trace’ principles.
• Drive and park sensibly, particularly in rural areas. Remember, the boats on your car roof indicate to everyone you are paddlers, and it’s easy for the actions of a few to give everyone a bad name.

And the following for enjoying responsible access on the water:

• Friendly communication between paddlers, landowners and anglers can help them understand each other’s positions and avoid problems from developing.
• Do keep an eye out for anglers. Ideally, stop a reasonable distance away from them and engage in conversation about the best place to pass to continue your journey.
• Care for the environment and strive not to damage or disturb animals, vegetation or man-made structures.

Alternatively, the trip can continue under the A861 road bridge, and you will then reach a magical viewpoint beyond the Old Bridge. The River Shiel continues, past Shielfoot hamlet on the left-hand bank, to a transition point.

Depending on whether the tide in the sea loch of Loch Moidart (Gaelic: Mùideart: muddy sea loch) is in or out, or somewhere in between, means that the transition point is just a continuous flow or a drop of different heights. It is easy to take a look by getting out just upstream, on the right-hand bank. If planning a portage, the right-hand bank is preferable, as a track runs along the river.

As indicated, Loch Moidart is tidal but retains a channel that weaves its way around to an ultimate exit to the north or south channel of the island of Eilean Shona. But before you move on, you will not fail to see the iconic ancient monument, Castle Tioram (pronounced Cheerum), which sits on the tidal island of Eilean Tioram (the Dry Island).

This 13th-century fortress is the traditional seat of the Clanranald branch of Clan Donald and has been unoccupied since the Jacobite rising of 1715. A definite lunchtime stop, and an opportunity to gaze at its ruined structure, its location, and the stunning views. The car park at this location can offer a shuttle option at this point in the trip.

This trip offers many opportunities to continue, but be aware that you are now on the sea, and some knowledge of tidal planning and weather effects can influence your decision-making. And do be aware of the large tidal ranges in this area.

One option is to head north, exit the north channel of Loch Moidart, past Smirisary Beach, and continue along what could be an exposed headland, and turn into Loch Ailort. A stop-off in Glenuig offers the opportunity to refresh at the Inn. Loch Ailort is semi-protected by three islands, all of which allow an opportunity for a further break and exploration.

For us, the most notable stopover for a break is the white sandy, ‘singing sand’ beach on the north side. With the ruined village of Peanmeanach, and its bothy on the beach. Onwards through the narrow strait of Loch Ailort and a journey that can end at the top of the loch. But do be aware that the Loch Ailort tidal range can be quite large (up to 5 metres). A sensible option is to leave a vehicle here and travel the 12 miles (17 km) back to Glenfinnan via the main road (A830).

The other option is to take the south channel out of Loch Moidart, turn left into Loch Ceann Traigh, and head to Ardtoe beach and an egress point (or a little further inland to Kentra Bay). Again, a vehicle could have been left here in the car park, for the shuttle, and you will then most certainly pass the icon, the ‘Monster Midge’, positioned on a tight bend, which is rather apt for this article.

Recommendation: A multi-day expedition. And depending on the options you choose, it could take 3-7 days, but it will be weather, wind, and tide-dependent.

5. Sound of Arisaig
Tropical – if you know that you love white sandy beaches, a turquoise sea and amazing scenery, this is the place for you. The amazing coastal scenery is enhanced by views across the Sound of Arisaig to the Isles of Rhum, Eigg and Muck (the Isle of Canna is hidden by Rhum), and, to the north, the Isle of Skye, while to the south, the Ardnamurchan peninsula.

You enter the village of Arisaig by turning off the main A830 from Fort William to Mallaig, and on to the B8008. You will find plenty of opportunities to launch your craft, not least the seafront car parks. But our favourite is to take the single-track road just before The Arisaig Land, Sea and Islands Centre (a museum), then take the windy road to its end (certainly the last part of public access) by following its path along the coast.

At The Waiting Room, you will find a small car park which allows enough space to unload and provide ready access to the Sound of Arisaig (the open sea). Depending upon the tides, you can paddle out a short distance to the Arisaig Skerries, a series of intertwined islands linked by a sand bar, at low tide. It is also a great place to spot plenty of wildlife, including seabirds and common seals aplenty.

However, remember, the common seals and their pups (born in early summer) should not be disturbed as they are protected in the area, but also note that they are very curious, so simply by sitting still on the water in your craft, they will come and check you out. Perhaps you might be lucky on your trip to see other wildlife, including otters busy going about their daily feeding, and, further out in the Sound of Arisaig, porpoises swimming by or white-tailed eagles soaring in the sky on the hunt for food.

With the sun shining, it looks like paradise. And if you want a small journey, you can either turn inland and head back into Arisaig, through Loch nan Ceall or head along the coastline and weave in and out of the rocky inlets.

Recommendation: It would be easy to set up a base camp and take day trips along the coast. This would be weather, wind, and tide-dependent.

Footnote:
Warning: paddling on open water, whether it be the sea or a loch, can be hazardous. Beware of the sea state and conditions, and do some tidal planning, as not only are the tidal ranges quite large in these areas, but it can make a difference to the length of the portage whether the tide is in or out. Do check out relevant websites and charts for predicted sea conditions. Open water can appear harmless, but a sudden change of wind direction and strength can wreak havoc. So do check out the weather for the planned day of paddling. Rivers need to be inspected for water levels, debris (strainers), weirs, and other man-made obstructions.

Useful Resources:
Scottish Outdoor Access Code: (www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot).
Scottish Canals: The Great Glen Canoe Trail: (www.scottishcanals.co.uk/visit/things-to-do/paddling/discover-the-great-glen-canoe-trail).
Strontian camping (http://sunartcamping.com).
Loch Shiel Jetties Trust: (email: lochshieljettiestrust@yahoo.com).
Leave no Trace: (www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot/practical-guide-all/camping).
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds Glenborrodale: (www.rspb.org.uk/days-out/reserves/glenborrodale).
Ardnamurchan: (www.westhighlandpeninsulas.com/about-the-peninsulas/ardnamurchan).