By Richard Harpham
Richard Harpham shares some more of his favourite locations in Scotland by canoe. This time it’s Scottish lochs under the spotlight.
Richard Harpham bio
Richard has become a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society.
Richard is a human powered adventurer and inspirational speaker who has completed over 10,000 miles of expeditions by kayak, canoe, bike and on foot including exploring the Yukon, cycling the Sahara and Canada’s Inside Passage.
At home he runs www.canoetrail.co.uk, a watersports and adventure business with his wife Ashley in Bedfordshire providing qualifications, canoe camping, coaching and paddling trips to some of the UK’s and world’s best locations. He is the former editor of Bushcraft and Survival Magazine and writes for Outdoor Adventure Guide, MoD’s Resettlement magazine and the Paddler magazine.
His adventures are supported by: Flint Group, Paramo Clothing, Olympus Cameras, Valley Sea Kayaks, Silverbirch Canoes, Bamboo Clothing, MSR, Canadian Affair, Osprey Rucksacks, Extreme Adventure Foods, Air North, Reed Chillcheater and Exposure Lights. You can follow his adventures through social media & @ www.richadventure.com
Exploring Scottish lochs
I have had so many paddling trips to Scotland, to replenish my need for wilderness paddling, big vistas and stunning landscapes. It was our bi-annual ‘Best of Scotland’ paddling trip and this one was equally fantastic with challenging whitewater, new locations and world-class paddling destinations.
Scotland is famous for its lochs (and whisky), teeming with inland fresh waters and integrated sea lochs stretching around its rugged coastline. There is plenty to explore and escape from the over crowded pressure cooker of modern life.
Loch Ness and River Ness
Although part of the Great Glenn Canoe Trail Loch Ness can be paddled as a shorter half day or day trip to tackle this iconic location. Just last week she allowed us safe passage despite the Force 3-4 winds. Given its 26-mile length and moody disposition, even the lightest breeze can create significant waves. Stay close to shore and ensure you have the right equipment and experience for the conditions. We launched from friendly pub and beach site at Dores and headed into the wind on a suitable course.
After a slightly rough ride we turned downwind to enjoy surfing down the two-foot waves towards Loch End. Our Silverbirch canoes and us enjoyed the work out, catching wave after wave accelerating each time to maximize the ride. Behind the stony spit likes the often overlooked Loch Dochfour, which splits into the ongoing original canal or the River Ness. We rigged a jury rig sail (impromptu sail) harnessing the ‘fetch’ at the top of Loch Ness and then enjoyed a full spread picnic in our rafted canoe on Loch Dochfour.
We arrived at the weir accessing the River Ness and after a quick scout ran the right hand side adjacent the small sluice. Be aware in higher flows this may require a portage as it can have a full stopper and be extremely dangerous. The meandering flow was a welcome addition and our mixed group of coaches and novices enjoyed the new challenge. The River Ness is a brilliant intro river with a series of small weirs and chutes that can be run in low water or portaged. Just before Inverness, adjacent a lovely looking house (mansion), is a small fish weir with decent wave train running. This caused some excitement amongst the group with their first experience of bigger waves in a canoe.
We finished the trip adjacent the car park/skate park near Bught Park Pitches and returned to Dores to shuttle kit and vehicles. We stopped in to the Dores Inn and ordered drinks to say thanks for allowing us access from their beach.
Loch Maree
Loch Maree is one of my favourite places to paddle in the world with its folklore, ancient history and beautiful setting. Loch Maree is in Wester Ross in the north west Highlands flanked by an impressive Munro named Slioch, which resembles a craggy fortress. It is the forth largest fresh water loch in Scotland and 12 miles in length with a collection of islands including a nature reserve. Camping here amongst the small islets and islands is a real treat and of course ‘leaving no trace’ rules apply.
Isle Maree tucked away among 65 islands, has the remains of an old chapel, graveyard and holy well. It is believed to be the 8th century hermitage of Saint Mael Ruba (d. 722), who founded the monastery of Applecross in 672. The same island contains ancient stands of oak and holly which have been linked with Scottish Druids. There is also the ‘money tree’ with coins dating back over 150 years. Queen Victoria visited the Loch in 1877 which led to the naming of a waterfall on the south side, Victoria Falls (it is slightly smaller than the African version).
We paddled and camped this at New Year and again in October to enjoy the autumnal colours, each time exploring a little more. We took the opportunity to feast on tasty campfire delicacies and of course sampling the whisky with friends telling tales of ‘daring do’. The loch definitely has a magical quality and we went to sleep listening to stags bark at each other. The next morning we braved the icy waters for a wild swim, which definitely took the breath away with a vigorous dip. Breakfast was waffles and Canadian Maple syrup brought specially from our recent Ontario Trip. It was perfect and that morning we saw several stags as we trekked around the larger islands in search of the ‘loch within a loch’.
Loch Morar
Loch Morar is located in Lochaber on the western side of Scotland in the highlands and offers a mix of classic canoe paddling with islands, an 11.7 mile length and a portage route that is challenging to say the least. There are beautiful little islands offering shelter and wild camping at the western end of the loch. The portage at Tarbet connects your journey to out onto the sea loch Nevis and is just over 1km. Our last visit we used the islands as shelter and lee paddling to escape the huge gusts and prevailing gales.
Once on Loch Nevis an easterly route will take you through narrows at Kyleknoysdart to sandy beaches 8km away with a small bothy at Sourlies. Heading west means increasing open water down towards Inverie. Further round the coast is Mallaig a beautiful coastal town popular with sailors as well as port for the Cal Mac (Caledonian Macbrayne) Ferries. Mallaig is a great place to ‘kick back’ and enjoy the local culture. I have enjoyed Hogmanay with local folk bands in Mallaig as well as stunning paddling.
Loch Shiel
Loch Shiel has been made a popular tourist attraction by virtue of the viaduct, featuring in a certain Harry Potter book and film series, as well as the Glenfinnan Jacobite monument. The young prince, ‘Bonny Prince Charlie’ raised his standard on the shore in 1745. The history of trade, exploration and voyages dates significantly further back than that, with one of the most popular wilderness canoe trips in Scotland being the Shiel Circuit. There are no roads for almost 33kms of the loch’s length and plenty of wildlife with otters, eagles and pine martins in residence. Although parts of the river system may be navigable in low waters this may involve longer portages that you envisage.
This loch has also featured as inspiration for much of the work of artist Rob Campbell (my DW and Yukon River Quest team mate) for his sculpture and paintings (www.robhoustoncampbell.com). Loch Moidart to the north on the return leg of the circuit, has wild camp sites on islands and other places to call home.
Our last visit coincided with heavy weather with a force 6 gusting 7 blowing down the loch. We battled out in ‘teeth chattering’ conditions, literally planting the paddle to hold station before eventually conceding to the fierce elements and flying back to the start point. Our retreat complete we ventured up the small river feeding the loch and practiced our poling and subbing in the flows (poling and snubbing are traditional canoe skills using a pole to move up and downstream in rapids, swifts and moving water).
Loch Linnhe
Loch Linnhe is a classic sea loch stretching up from the sea town of Oban and the Firth of Lorne 32 miles or so up to the Highland hub of Fort William. Paddling from Kinlochleven through the narrows at Ballachulish can be a mind boggling experience on the ebb tide as eddies and swirling waters aim to spin you around. The bridge at Ballachulish with the Pap of Glencoe and the Aonach Eagach Ridge makes a picturesque back drop.
The Corran Ferry requires a bit of cat and mouse as you head up towards the larger sea lock at Corpach (north of Fort William) signalling the start of the Caledonian Canal. I have played Gran Mother’s footsteps with local seals around this stretch of water on many occasions. Remember if you are canoeing on a sea loch make sure the conditions suit the craft you are in. The western end can be extremely challenging and is open to the force of swells from the Irish Sea and Atlantic.
I have canoed and kayaked on this beautiful loch and on its day it offers great paddling with incredible mountains flanking the loch.
General paddling rules apply
With all paddling in the Highlands be respectful of other users and local people. If you are using access points and car parks from local pubs, hotels and sites then make sure you ‘pay forward’ their kindness by spending some money. Equally leave no trace, minimize your impact and don’t block access ways.
It is worth remembering that inland and sea lochs can behave like small seas, so make sure you paddle within your experience for the conditions. Longer lochs have significant ‘fetch’ and journeying far from shore can be dangerous. Make sure you have checked the weather forecast and have the right clothing and equipment for the day and season. The old adage, “There is no such thing as cold weather just the wrong clothing” applies. Hopefully you have begun to get a flavour of the world-class paddling on offer in Scotland. See you on the water.
