Words : Cory Jones
Photos: Cory Jones &
Mandy E. Rush
Cory and Mandy
Cory Jones is a Paddle UK Endorsed Canoe Guide and runs a wilderness first aid consultancy and Highland Experiences based in the Highlands of Scotland.
Mandy E. Rush is an adventurer, author and illustrator. Together, they are Wee Wild Adventures. https://weewild
adventures.com
Mandy and Cory
Canoe the Yukon – Whitehorse to Dawson City – An absolute classic ….and still worth doing
The Yukon River is more than just a river—it’s an adventure, a journey through history, and a dream come true for paddlers and explorers alike. Our recent expedition, which spanned from Whitehorse to Dawson City, proved that this classic route, renowned for its stunning beauty and rich history, remains a must-do for any canoe enthusiast.
Living in Scotland, the chance to canoe in the Yukon River is a childhood dream come true. This trip is just over 715km (450 miles) of canoeing, which most groups complete in 12-16 days. For many, the Yukon represents the epitome of wilderness adventure: a vast, untamed river meandering through remote forests and past rugged landscapes. The Yukon River is the fourth longest river in North America, offering a canoeing experience with relatively low technical demands but plenty of opportunities for adventure. Although this is a classic route, we only saw other groups once every other day; the expedition still felt like it was remote and untravelled. I completed part of the route in 2022 when I took part in the Yukon River Quest race, but this time, I wanted to come back and explore the river rather than just travel through it on the marathon race.
The history
There is a huge amount of history to explore along the Yukon River, from First Nations settlements and fish camps to fur trade development in the nineteenth century. Plus, the history of the Klondike gold rush (the Yukon was once described as the ‘River of Gold’) and the 200+ paddle steamers that once plied their trade from Whitehorse to the Pacific coast on the Yukon.
Mike Rourke’s Yukon River – Marsh Lake to Dawson City is an essential guide to the river and its recent history. We found this guide invaluable. This guidebook was transported in a waterproof map case for our whole journey so we could follow Mike’s forty hand-drawn maps (1:65,000), which included current and historic site names, details of all river obstructions, route choices to make the best use of the river flow and potential wild campsite locations with their GPS location. The guide also includes the history of the river and its settlements.
Most specialist canoe hire outfitters are based in Whitehorse (the capital of the Yukon Territory). Most groups running the Yukon start here unless they want to avoid the changeable conditions on Lake Laberge. Transatlantic charters service Whitehorse, which has regular connections with international airports in the south, making it the ideal starting point for the tour. Our outfitters (Up North Adventures) were very helpful and were based only metres from the river in Whitehorse, where we were to start our journey.
The first day in Whitehorse was spent visiting the large outlets to purchase our two weeks of expedition food and cooking utensils. Then, we sorted the food into barrels (hired from our outfitter) so it would be bear-proof on our trip down the Yukon River. A fishing permit is required if you want to fish from your canoe on the journey. These can now be purchased online for around $25CAD from the Yukon state government website.
On our departure day of July 20th, it was very wet; we were hoping that this was not a sign of things to come, and it wasn’t. The weather for our trip was generally dry, with only a couple of days of full-on rain. In fact, at the start and the end of the trip, we had a few days where the temperature was over 30C (92F).
The first day of the route from Whitehorse follows the fast-flowing Yukon River section for about 30km to the start of Lake Laberge. This section gave our group time to become accustomed to the hired canoes, which were heavily loaded with 14 days of food, camping, and personal equipment. The high river cliffs encountered were home to thousands of sand martins, and noisy belted kingfishers and bald eagles dominated the wooded areas.
Lake Laberge
Lake Laberge is the first significant challenge of the route because strong winds and large waves can build up in a matter of minutes. It is unusual for Lake Laberge to be calm for its entire 50 Km (30 miles) length. There are options to travel down the right or left side of the lake, but it is over 3km wide. Once you set off down one side, you are committed. The right (east) side is shorter, whilst the left (west) is longer but has more places to shelter.
We chose the right side of the lake and, because of a strong crosswind, rafted our canoes for extra stability. This also allowed us to benefit from a small sail we had brought, which was shared by both canoes. In the end it took two days to cross lake Laberge which talking to other groups was not a bad time. Some people encounter a strong headwind and cannot progress for a while.
An alternative for those looking to avoid Lake Laberge’s challenges is starting on the Teslin River. This lesser-known route begins at Johnsons Crossing and offers a less tumultuous introduction to the Yukon River system.
There are some great camp spots along the river, none better than at the end of Lake Laberge, where the Lower Laberge campsite (once a place where the logging roads began) reveals the ruins of a bygone age—rustic cabins and a run-down Dodge truck.
Next is the Thirty Mile River, with its blue-green waters and excellent fishing opportunities. Fishing for Arctic grayling is a fantastic side activity on this beautiful wilderness river. The Thirty Mile River is a relatively narrow channel. It begins at the outflow of Lake Laberge and ends at the confluence of the Teslin River. The history is evident along the way, both in the geological features and in the cultural heritage.
Hootalinqua
We camped on gravel bars and former wood camps that have returned to a wilderness that the first prospectors would have recognised. We had the chance to explore the ghost towns of Hootalinqua, Little and Big Salmon Village. Each night and morning, we cooked on an open fire. Driftwood abounds at the edges of the gravel bars, so there is no need to cut live wood to make cooking fires.
After a week of paddling, we arrived at Carmacks and literally got a taste of civilisation. The Coal Mine Campground at Carmacks has a grill bar, toilets, showers and a washing machine. There is also the opportunity to stock up on extra food at the nearby store. We didn’t take a rest day at Carmacks as many groups do, so we continued onto the infamous Five Finger Rapids. This is the only real rapid, apart from a few wave trains, on this journey and is approached from the extreme right-hand side. At this time of year, it is little more than a Grade 2 rapid and easily ridden. The thrill of running these rapids added excitement to our expedition.
Beyond the Five Finger Rapids, a striking white band in the river cliffs drew our attention. Known as Sam McGee’s Ashes, this feature is often linked to Robert W. Service’s famous poem “The Cremation of Sam McGee.” While the poem tells a haunting tale of a prospector’s cremation in a steamer’s boiler, the actual white band results from volcanic ash deposited by an ancient eruption of Mount Bona-Churchill, an eruption 1200 years ago.
Yukon Territorial Heritage Site
As we continued downstream, we arrived at the Huchá Hudän/Fort Selkirk Historic Site. The Yukon’s First Nation and the Government of Yukon co-manages this culturally significant area. Once a bustling hut, Fort Selkirk is now a preserved historic site designated a Yukon Territorial Heritage Site in 2010. Its rustic charm and historical importance provided a poignant reflection on the river’s past.
It is hard to imagine that a little over 100 years ago, Fort Selkirk was the capital of Yukon Territory, with a bustling population of around 30,000 people. Travelling down the Yukon in a canoe, it is hard to visualise that 100 years ago, over 200 paddle steamers serviced settlements like Fort Yukon along the river.
One hazard we had to be aware of was wildfires, which have become increasingly common in recent years. Sadly, the 2024 Yukon Quest paddle race had to be cancelled in June after wildfires engulfed part of the Yukon River and surrounding forests. By late July, the same fires were still raging around Fort Selkirk. At a couple of points on our trip, we paddled through areas of smoke from forest fires, and at one point, we put out a small fire beside one of our coffee break spots.
The wildlife
The Yukon River is teeming with wildlife. Along our journey, we encountered black bears, moose and beaver. While a bear sighting is thrilling, we took necessary precautions to ensure safety. Proper food storage, cooking away from our tents and keeping bear spray accessible were essential. After landing on a gravel bar, one of the factors as to whether we should camp was what footprints we could find. Usually, the bear prints we found on the sandy beaches were quite old, so we stayed on those beaches; if the footprints had been fresh, we would not have camped there.
One evening, we were collecting driftwood after pitching our tents when we saw some black bear prints which went directly into the river, indicating the bear had entered the water and swan to the other side of the river. About an hour later, we spotted a bear on an island in the river about 100m from camp. It was totally relaxed wandering around foraging on berries. Fortunately, it didn’t decide to swim back over to our camp.
Arriving in Dawson City marked the end of our expedition. This charming town, a Klondike Gold Rush-era relic, offered a delightful contrast to the wilderness we had traversed. With its rich history, Dawson City embodies the spirit of the gold rush days. We visited local attractions such as Diamond Tooth Gerties, known for its lively entertainment, and the Jack London House and Museum, which offers insights into the famous writer’s life.
Our outfitter arranged for our pickup from Dawson City, and after a couple of days of rest and exploration, we were driven back to Whitehorse. The return journey provided a chance to reflect on the incredible adventure we had just completed.
Highlights
Canoeing the Yukon from Whitehorse to Dawson City is recommended for paddlers of various skill levels. Highlights include the challenging Lake Laberge, the serene Thirty Mile River, and the historic Fort Selkirk. The wildlife encounters and stunning landscapes make this journey an unforgettable adventure. The route offers a blend of remote wilderness and historical intrigue. Whether you’re a seasoned paddler or a novice adventurer, the Yukon River presents an opportunity to experience one of North America’s most iconic wilderness journeys.
