Words:
Guy Baker

Photos:
Archer McLeay,
Lucas Quintero,
Chris Jones &
Guy Baker

Guy Baker

Guy now lives in New Zealand, where he continues planning trips worldwide. He can be contacted at: guy@catalystglobal.com www.catalystglobal.com

Conquering the rivers of Mount Kailash: A 35-year kayaking odyssey

In 2024, I completed a part descent of all four rivers sourced from Mount Kailash, a journey that spanned decades and defined my kayaking career. These rivers – the Indus, Sutlej, Karnali, and Brahmaputra – are geographical wonders and the lifeblood of the Himalayas, flowing through some of Earth’s most challenging and awe-inspiring terrain. This accomplishment culminated 35 years of exploration, courage, and resilience.

Mount Kailash: A sacred source
Mount Kailash is no ordinary mountain. Revered across multiple religions, it is the spiritual heart of the Himalayas. For Hindus, it is the abode of Lord Shiva; for Buddhists, it symbolises enlightenment as Mount Meru; for Jains, it marks the site of Rishabhadeva’s liberation; and for Bon followers, it is the axis mundi of the spiritual world. Its untouched summit and pristine rivers have inspired pilgrims and adventurers alike.

These rivers – the Indus, Sutlej, Karnali, and Brahmaputra – flow in four cardinal directions, carving their way through towering peaks and deep gorges. Kayaking these waters immersed me in the region’s natural and spiritual essence.

1990: The Indus – Taming the Lion
My journey began with the Indus in 1990. This mighty river cuts through the Karakoram mountains, creating the Rhondu Gorges, a labyrinth of colossal rapids, steep drops, and tumultuous holes. Here, we attempted the first descent as part of an international team. Armed with three-metre-long Pyranha Mountain Bats, we faced rapids that tested our limits. These kayaks did not boof. They went in and down, making running big water an ultimate challenge. Kayaks today have made runs that were previously impossible a reality. Here we have Cam McLeay’s son, Archer, running the same rapids we ran 35 years earlier.

The Indus – Taming The Lion 1990 https://vimeo.com/399018076

One unforgettable night, I chose to stay with the kayaks at the bottom of the gorge, surrounded by 7,000-metre peaks and a blanket of stars. It was a moment of solitude and smallness that I’ll never forget. The camaraderie among our team – Mike Hewlett, Ross Purdy, Mick Hopkinson,  Cam McLeay, Dave Allardice, Gerry Moffat and others – was forged in the shared intensity of those rapids. The expedition was immortalised in the documentary Taming the Lion, capturing only a fraction of the river’s raw power.

2005: The Sutlej – A Canyon Adventure
Fifteen years later, I was in Tibet with Chris Jones of Windhorse. Our journey took us to the upper Sutlej, where the river narrows into a 10-metre-wide canyon with towering walls over 100 metres high. The rapids inside were an unknown challenge, and each turn demanded careful scouting. With little room for error, we cautiously navigated the canyon, constantly aware of the possibility of a boulder choke ahead.

This stretch of the Sutlej was as much a test of mental endurance as it was of physical skill. The experience mirrored the solitude I had felt on the Indus – a profound connection to the raw power of nature and the age of rivers sliced into the rock.

2008, 2010, 2013: The Karnali – Nepal’s Crown Jewel
The Karnali, Nepal’s longest river, is a dream for multi-day kayaking expeditions. Its stunning beaches and exhilarating pool-drop rapids make it an adventurer’s paradise. 2010, I tackled the Karnali self-supported with UK friends, a rewarding ten-day journey from Pokhara. In 2013, I returned with my partner, Esther, who joined me on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP). Despite her limited experience, Esther embraced the challenge, and together, we navigated the Karnali’s rapids. Her elevated position on the SUP provided a unique perspective to see the rapids and work out the dangers and best routes to swim out.

The Karnali tested us, thrilled us, and solidified its place as one of the finest rivers I’ve paddled. It is well within reach of the average good club paddler.

2024: The Brahmaputra (Siang) – The Final Frontier
My journey culminated with the Brahmaputra, known as the Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibet. After flowing gently eastward across the Tibetan Plateau, it crashes through the Himalayas past Namcha Barwa, the world’s highest unclimbed peak, before entering Arunachal Pradesh as the Siang.

The Siang’s rapids are monumental in scale. I often reflected on Darin McQuoid’s vivid description of The Wall Rapid – a churning behemoth that exemplifies the raw power of big water. Our raft team flipped on the first rapid, a harrowing 400-metre swim for six stunned rafters. Each subsequent rapid demanded precision, strength, and nerve. The Fantastic Four, a massive Class IV rapid, was a roll of the dice, but the exhilaration was unparalleled.

Arunachal Pradesh’s Siang valleys are home to the Adi and Galo tribes, whose vibrant cultures added depth to the adventure. Over six weeks of biking and kayaking, we explored the region’s remote beauty, rarely encountering anyone outside our group.

A Legacy of Exploration
Completing descents on all four rivers sourced from Mount Kailash has been a journey of a lifetime. From the Rhondu Gorges of the Indus to the mighty Siang’s rapids, each river has challenged me, inspired me, and left an indelible mark. These expeditions were more than just kayaking trips; they were a testament to the power of persistence, the allure of the wild, and the bond between adventurers. Of course, this period was punctuated by other great rivers worldwide. The Blue Nile in Ethiopia, The White Nile In Uganda, The Franklin in Tasmania, The Zanskar in India, The Arun in Nepal, The Colca in Peru, rivers in Brazil, Bolivia, Ecuador, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and so many more.

The construction of dams
These rivers are essential for the livelihoods of millions, providing water for drinking, agriculture, and industry across multiple countries. The construction of dams, especially in upstream areas, has significant implications for water flow and availability downstream, affecting the populations that depend on these rivers.

For kayakers seeking the ultimate challenge, these rivers offer unparalleled adventure and a connection to some of Earth’s most sacred and remote landscapes. Reflecting on this journey, I remember the words etched into every rapid: respect the river, embrace the challenge, and cherish the moments – mindfulness kayaking.

Thanks to Palm Equipment for 35 years of support