Paddling the Spey River

By Richard Harpham

The River Spey has a worldwide reputation, albeit for its ‘water of life’ whisky exports but is also synonymous for fishing and tourism running through some of the most iconic and picturesque parts of the Highlands. At 107 miles long from Spey Loch in the Corrieyairack Forest (300m above sea level) to the sea on the Moray Firth, it is the UK’s ninth longest river.

Richard’s Bio
Richard Harpham is a human powered adventurer and inspirational speaker who has completed over 9,000 miles of expeditions by kayak, canoe, bike and on foot including exploring the Yukon, cycling the Sahara and Canada’s Inside Passage. He runs www.canoetrail.co.uk, a watersports and adventure business, with his wife Ashley, in Bedfordshire providing qualifications, canoe camping, coaching and paddling trips to some of the UK and world’s best locations.

He is the editor of Bushcraft and Survival Magazine and writes for Outdoor Adventure Guide and the Paddler Magazine. His adventures are supported by: Flint Group, Paramo Clothing, Olympus Cameras, Valley Sea Kayaks, Silverbirch Canoes, Bamboo Clothing, MSR, Canadian Affair, Osprey Rucksacks, Extreme Adventure Foods, Reed Chillcheater and Exposure Lights. You can follow his adventures through social media & @ www.richadventure.com

Paddling the Spey River
A jewel in the crown of Scottish rivers

Paddling the River Spey is top of many canoeist’s ‘bucket list’ with formal campsites, wild camping on river islands and a host of distillery towns along the route. The river drops and winds erratically past Newtonmore, Kingussie and then Aviemore with the pièce de résistance being the Blackbird Rapids, aka the superbly named ‘washing machine’ as well as more rapids further downstream. Knockando is a whitewater training site for Scottish slalom and river kayakers alike, with basic facilities on site including changing facilities and toilets.

The Spey has a large catchment area with waters draining from the Cairngorms national park and plateau, and therefore has reasonable water levels for most of the year. At higher levels some of the bigger rapids wash out a bit but over-hanging trees can also present a greater hazard. At low levels protruding rocks make for a more technical paddle and the upper stretches near Newtonmore can be more bony.

Loch Insch is worth a mention as the Spey slows as it enters the loch, with an array of wildlife and the Loch Insch Watersports Centre. Many paddlers start their Spey journey here, where the parking is free but there is a launch fee. There is a restaurant, bar and accommodation facilities on site. More importantly there has been active Eyries (Osprey nests) and breeding pairs on Loch Insch for a number of years. Paddlers have the perfect stealth craft to see these magnificent birds of prey.

There are some stunning buildings and history throughout the course of the Spey descent, with iconic bridges, old ferry crossings and of course plenty of distilleries. There are also stone circles and Orton’s earth pillars (known as the Seven Pillars of Hercules). People are also drawn to the Spey for its wildlife such as otters, pine martins and bird life including dippers, sand martins and mergansers (which always seem to run on water).

There is a fantastic guide book produced by the team at Pesda Press, this one imaginatively entitled ‘The River Spey Canoe Guide’ by Nancy Chambers and is essential reading not only to planning your trip but also to escape to a life less ordinary! I would add that the remote nature of some sections of this river makes Ordnance Survey maps essential. Please note that the Spey is not a novice river and even intermediate paddlers may require guiding down the more technical sections.

For coaching and moving water skills sessions I would suggest breaking some days and distances down into smaller chunks. It is possible to portage canoes back to the start of the ‘Washing Machine’ or line and carry them alongside part of the beach area adjacent the rapid to enjoy multiple runs. Many sections and stretches of river also make great day trips to mix and match alongside paddling the local lochs.

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Exploring the Spey

For years I worked in Scotland in a former life and drove over the River Spey on the way to meetings in the Highlands, miles from our base in England. Early morning journeys by car left me inspired by the bubbling waters sparkling in the morning sunlight. Sadly I was always without my canoe as seemingly it was not part of our standard work attire.

The Spey has a magical quality with charging waters cascading over millions of infinitely polished rocks. Other stretches have sand martins populating the sandy river banks flanking the river. Sporadic islands with perfect wild camp sites, Scots pines standing guard over silent eddies and large mountainous backdrops add to the picture postcard settings.

More recently I was finally granted my wish when we visited my brother for Hogmanay in Falkirk before spending a week paddling the Highlands. Taking to the Spey it was in spate and running like a freight train. Each access point required tight lines with a fast conveyor belt of water pushing downstream. A good paddling friend of ours runs Crubenmore Hunting Lodge , 15 miles South of Aviemore, which is perfect for Spey and Highland river trips (see www.facebook.com/ Crubenmore-Lodge-149985541782075/)

A favourite stretch of the river and a fantastic day paddle is to start near the Old Bridge Inn. There is ample car parking and like so many local hostelries, a beverage at the end of the shuttle brings parking co-operation. The launch site is a sandy bank and peat tinged water with clean lines. The river exits Aviemore town with banks eroded from years of punishment from the snow melt into a meandering waterway. At Auchgourish, the river swings into a left hand bend closely followed by one of the islands offering great lunch and a potential wild camping site.

Boat of Garten seven miles downstream, makes a short but exciting paddle with some small sections of rapids and sweeping bends. The river is slower between Boat of Garten and the Boat of Ballieforth as you navigate a river valley and wider plain. There is a campsite at Ballieforth and Grantown is just around the corner. Below Grantown are easier rapids with Grade 2 sections. Bridges on the river make excellent landmarks to aid navigation as well as monitoring time and direction of travel with the bends.

Advie Bridge is another great start point for a day paddle with a bubbling waters and more islands for camping or lunch stops. This section always fills me with excitement knowing we have the ‘Washing Machine’ in our sights. You will pass under the Ballindalloch Railway Bridge which signals the river changing pace again. The confluence with the River Avon (Ayon) from the right bank adds more flow and you are upon the Washing Machine. The right hand bank makes a great place to stop and inspect it, you can walk along the path and onto the beach and boulder area. The rapid is a chute between the gravel banks and produces a brilliant wave train.

I have paddled it in a small 15ft canoe in tandem as well as a 16ft Silverbirch Broadland Highline with the former resulting in a significant quantity of water over the bow. Below the rapid is a great wave train and safe area making it easily accessible for rescues for those who dump. On our trips we usually spend time there working on our whitewater canoe skills, ferry gliding, surfing and breaking in and out. As the largest feature on the river, it is a excellent spot to play and refine your moves.

Leaving Blacksboat Rapid there are more exciting whitewater sections and plenty of sand martins nesting in the banks as you paddle on.You are now approaching Knockandoo, which is another great rapid to practice on or simply run tight lines, with a white post on the right hand bank showing the start of the training area. Again depending on the flow, you will either see a rock garden or various lines. The Scottish Canoe Association provide a car park and use this as a slalom training site, so you may have to dodge paddlers as well as rocks. There is a good landing spot in an eddy on river left below the rapids and you can walk back up to survey the lines. Carron Bridge is another obvious ‘get out’ below the arches on the LHS with a scramble up to the road. Locals prefer parking away from the main bridge and verge in the village so be warned.

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More Grade 1 and 2 rapids

From Carron Bridge to Aberlour, there are more Grade 1 and 2 rapids, which offer great paddling. More bridges provide useful landmarks with the Aberlour Victoria suspension bridge nicknamed the ‘Penny Bridge’ after its toll and the Iron arched span bridge at Craigellachie designed by Thomas Telford. Some of the banks and islands on this lower section are susceptible to Japanese Knotweed and hogweed, which can be unpleasant. The good news is that there is a campsite near Craigellachie, which might prove an easier option.

The section near Rothes is fast and the flow on bends feels like it will push you onto the bank. There are various Grade 1 and 2 rapids down towards Boat o’Brig which has a nasty boulder in the middle of the river waiting to catch you out. It has been the scene of upsets and embarrassment to many a paddler. Heading towards the Spey Bay and the Moray Firth, the river flows into the small estuary. Check the tides and weather to determine what awaits you. You can get breaking waves and strong currents.

There are an estimated 150 bottlenose dolphins living on the Moray Firth so the trip can deliver one last piece of magic. I have canoed on the Moray Firth with dolphins providing a ‘guard of honour’ but be aware conditions can change quickly. The variety in scenery, wildlife and river conditions is what makes the River Spey such a delight to paddle. By the time we go to print I will be finishing another trip introducing novice paddlers to the river with Canoe Trail. You can feel the excitement building amongst our team as the days before we depart count down.

If you are planning to complete a source to sea or multi day trip then make sure you minimize your shuttles and impact on other river users. Leave no trace at all and be aware your chosen wild camp site may be in use so have a contingency. Be aware (of others) and be prepared to share!

This diverse river provides one of the best locations in Britain to paddle a range of conditions and features to improve your traditional canoe skills. From whitewater moves, reading water and efficient paddling on the flat it is all here. And there are also locations to practice sailing (Loch Insch), poling and snubbing(upper parts near Newtonmore) and of course lining and tracking.

Hope that you feel inspired to paddle these magical waters and at the very least add them to your paddling ‘bucket list’. Canoe Trail run their ‘Best of Scotland’ paddling trip twice a year showcasing some of the best paddling locations in the Highlands. www.canoetrail.co.uk

Four day trip