Story: Martin Trahan
Photos: Yan Kaczynski

Martin is an adventurer, ultra long distance canoeist and Banff Mountain Film Festival ambassador/Quebec Tour. Catch up with him on Instagram: @martin_trahan_canoeist

The Inside Passage – the Gold Rush route

The plan for 2022:

The team plans to paddle the ‘Inside Passage’ on the Pacific Ocean by canoe. This portion of the journey will take approximately 100 days. The first 2200 km section will start in April 2022 in Olympia (Washington) and end in Skagway (Alaska). Then, we will have to hike the mythical 53km portage on the Chilkoot Trail, which joins Skagway to Lake Bennett in British Columbia, Canada.

The last section of the expedition will take place on the Yukon River and allow us to reach Dawson City in the Yukon after canoed a distance of 800 km for about 20 days. This is where we will drink the famous Sourtoe Cocktail, a shooter with a mummified human toe in it, the ultimate initiation tradition in the Yukon. This is the entire route that American gold prospectors took as early as 1897, partly by steamboat, in an attempt to make a lot of money.

This long journey will allow the crew to engage in an idyllic relationship with nature while retracing the legendary explorations of many historical travellers and those of the First Nations who still inhabit the territory.  We have not listed any expeditions like the one we are planning. Most Inside Passage expeditions are by kayaks and end in Skagway.  This being said, we are not claiming to be a ‘first’.

This coastal seaway is a precious legacy of the Ice Age. Amidst fjords, mountains covered with lush forests and glaciers are breathtaking places. It will be possible to observe many animals such as grizzly bears, black bears, eagles, moose, cougars, whales, orcas, sea lions and salmon. The team will have the opportunity to contemplate spectacular views, majestic landscapes and the beauty of native villages. The world’s rainforests have been described as the lungs of the earth due to their production of oxygen. Canada’s coastal rainforest differs from other temperate rainforests in that it contains more conifers than deciduous trees. Our temperate rainforest is one of the wettest non-tropical areas in the world. In some places, up to 160 inches of rain can fall in a year.

• Distance: 3000km
• Duration: 125 days
• Number of resupplies: 8

The planning 2021:

A two-week canoe adventure in the Inside Passage. I asked my friend and adventure photographer Yan Kaczynski to choose a route that would allow us to have a first feel of the Inside Passage and get oriented. Yan is a backcountry skier who spends his winters in Terrace, British Columbia. He knew the area and had been dreaming about canoeing the mystic Skeena river for a very long time. So he figured out a way to paddle our canoes down the Skeena, to the Pacific Ocean and finally to Kitimat. His dream was about to become a reality.

The Inside Passage was calling. For three of us (Charles already did sea canoeing in the past), it was our first-time sea canoeing, and it was intimidating. During that canoe trip, we were looking forward to learning how to deal with tides, currents, whirlpools, heavy rain, storms, lack of camp spots, saltwater, killer whales and grizzly bears. It didn’t disappoint us.

But first, we had to get there. Yan flew to Terrace, and Charles was already living the van life in British Columbia. Daniel and I drove with the canoes on top and all the gear in the pickup truck bed. From Montreal to Terrace, it’s a 5000 km drive. It was a magical road trip across Canada. Driving through the Canadian Rockies was epic and spectacular. It took us four days to cross our beautiful country. We made a quick stop in the province of Alberta to paddle the famous Maligne Lake.

The sublime Maligne Lake is the crown jewel of Jasper National Park. At 05:30 am, under a sky of shooting stars, we were canoeing alone on one of Canada’s most popular glacial lakes. It was fantastic to have the lake for ourselves. The calm water was a mirror, and the loons were singing. The sunrise behind the glaciers was absolutely breathtaking. It was such a magical moment. We got to experience a pristine wilderness setting.

Unique experience

Canoeing has become a way of life, allowing the expression of my traditions, identity, values, and, above all, an opportunity to protect the natural heritage. The experience of being connected to the natural world is how I found to face my fears, heal, and feel more alive than ever. Developing a unique relationship with nature is beneficial for everyone, including me. It has the power of feeding my mind with positive energy, which changes me for the better. It allows me to find profound satisfaction in my life process.

My happy place is out in the wilderness, it’s where I belong, and there is nowhere else I’d rather be. The calming power of nature is real. The quest for freedom and well-being motivates my desire to be in nature.

The Skeena River

The Skeena River in BC, is one of the most beautiful rivers we have had the chance to paddle in our life. It was initially known as the K’shian River, meaning ‘where the mist comes out’. From the city of Terrace to the Pacific Ocean, the views and the landscape were magnificent. The high peak mountains surrounded us, and that was outstanding.

Heavy morning fog and low-hanging clouds were common. The Skeena River is located in the Great Bear Rainforest, which is a real treasure. It’s a wild river filled with history, and it flows through the spectacular wilderness of the Coast Mountains. Wolves, wild cats and grizzly bears are commonly seen in this area.

It’s a very famous river for wild steelhead and salmon fishery – the ultimate fly fishing playground. Next time, we will make sure to fish a little more. Paddling the Skeena River was like being part of a painting; it was surreal. Discovering a territory by its waterways was a unique experience.

The Grenville channel

After paddling the 150 km Skeena River stretch, we reached the Pacific Ocean and entered the lovely Grenville Channel. It’s an 83 km long straight and is 0.37 km wide at its narrowest point. There are densely wooded mountains on both sides. Campsites were few, but they were beautiful. Timing ourselves with the right tide was the key and allowed us to cover a lot of distance. The current is so strong that it’s almost impossible to paddle against it. Many curious seals followed us along the way. The long and narrow channels in BC are a real test of mental toughness, but it never disappoints.

The transition from freshwater to saltwater was easier than we thought. The weather was in our favour, the wind at our backs and the sea calm. The temperate rainforest is one of the wettest non-tropical areas globally, and we had a good taste of it (There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes). Our Arc’Teryx rain jackets and Kokatat drysuits were perfect and kept us dry.

At the end of the day, when the sun was about to set, it was such a nice feeling to find a lovely camp spot in an old-growth forest. We unloaded the canoes, set up the tents, put some dry clothes on, lit the stoves and while eating a delicious meal, we relaxed and enjoyed the view.

Portaging

We like portaging when the load is not too heavy. It provides a nice break from canoeing and allows us to get deeper into the wilderness and see many amazing places. It’s sometimes just fun, but it can also be a huge accomplishment, especially if it’s raining or if the terrain is rough and steep.

There are no regular portages along the Inside Passage. Nevertheless, the low and high tides of the Pacific Ocean made us do short portages through the intertidal zone to get to camp and back on the water in the morning. I was surprised at how high could be the tides, up to seven metres, during a full moon.

We encountered bad weather, with six days of continuous rain, making all our gear and tents damp. All my long canoe expeditions combined totalise over 500 days spent in the wilderness, but I had never experienced two straight days of rain.

Surprisingly, it was not that unpleasant. We paddled in the Great Bear Rainforest, and we were pleased to rely on our MSR tents/Kokatat dry suits when it was pouring rain (50 mm daily).

Humpback whales

We had the opportunity to paddle the Devastation channel amongst the giants. During two days in a row, for approximately one hour each time, we witnessed a group of humpback whales showcasing the true extent of their size while they were jumping out of the water (breaching), leaving us speechless. We were feeling so small. For the very first time in my life, I had a whale crossing and breathing just in front of my canoe before disappearing beneath the surface. I was both euphoric and scared.

We were also amazed by the countless coastal waterfalls. Sadly, we didn’t have enough time to explore them. It’s generally where we were getting our fresh water and filling our MSR dromedary bags. After six consecutive days of rain, the waterfalls were raging, and it was amazing to feel their power. The channels we paddled were filled with incredible wildlife, and it never ceased to amaze us. We felt privileged and grateful. First Nation people travelled those canoe routes and admired the endless beauty long before us.

Paddling a canoe is such a powerful feeling. It brings happiness, and it’s a source of enrichment. Once on the water, there are endless possibilities for all the beautiful sceneries we can see. Following our dreams led us to this little paradise on earth. unique experience It’s remarkable to access a territory where there are no roads allowing people to get there. Being in the wilderness and exploring remote places is a unique experience.

Everybody has their idea of paradise; mine is out there in the wilderness, feeling the magic of a wooden paddle and the canoe’s movement. The paddle seems to be an extension of my body. Rough days will happen, but it feels better when I experience them in nature instead of at work. Rivers and big open spaces are, for me, the highway to adventure. Adventure flows through me.

Going off-the-grid on a multi-day canoe adventure can sometimes be dangerous. It’s why I always bring a Garmin InReach device and a satellite phone with me. I’m not a brave adventurer, so it allows me to explore the unknown without the fear of the unknown. It’s an understatement to say that we feel accomplished after this beautiful journey in the Inside Passage. It was an honour and a privilege to canoe the land of the Tsimshian and the Haisla First Nations. We were looking forward to learning about the sea, the channels, and their tides and currents – we loved it. All good things must come to an end. Wilderness will forever inspire us.

The team: The authors of the story

Charles Fortin 
aka ‘The wise man’
Instagram: @theroamingbull

He has a presence that demonstrates both strength and humility at the same time. Charles is a strong and complete paddler. Paddling with him inspired us a lot. His capacity for adaptation is phenomenal. Charles is also a great storyteller, and we could listen to him for hours. In 2018, he was part of the Akor expedition and crossed northern Quebec and Labrador by canoe.

Daniel Barriault
aka ‘The Dan Factor’
Instagram: @danbarriault

Dan is the perfect teammate. He’s skilled and distinguished by his involvement in logistics and quickly finding a solution to any problems. Dan never really did a long canoe expedition before this one. Believe it or not, he was like a fish in water. He became an efficient paddler, and when on a mission, there was nothing to stop him. In the past few years, Dan worked on different adventure TV shows and in 2019-2020, he was part of a 45-day cycling expedition in South America.

Yan Kaczynski
Instagram: @yankaczynski

The human being in the context of nature is Kaczynski’s preferred subject. Through his work, he constantly attempts to display the human and the environment as a symbiotic whole. Both are not meant to be separated entities. Reestablishing this connection is Kaczynski’s way to help ensure our environment’s perennity.

His photography services provide a rich blend of authenticity and attentiveness to nature’s real feel and raw beauty. He collaborates with his creative process, work ethic, and selection of clients transcending the same strong values. F

or Yan Kaczynski, it’s all about connecting with the human and non-human world and inspiring by diffusing nature’s positive impact through immersive outdoor experiences.

Martin Trahan
Instagram: @martin_trahan_canoeist

I was born to canoe, craving for the unknown. I’m an adventurer and long-distance canoeist from Montreal who took part in the historical Royal Canadian Geographical Society ‘Canada expedition of the year 2015’. My team paddled across Canada by canoe. This expedition started on April 25th, 2015, in the icy waters of Lake of Two Mountains, Montreal and ended 7,000 kilometres away on October 16th, 2015 (175 days and 117 portages) along the coast of the Mackenzie River in Inuvik in the Arctic Circle.

From May to July 2016 (70 days), I was part of the ‘Pull of the North’ expedition that paddled by canoe the Yukon River – 3,200 kilometres from Lake Bennett (British-Columbia, Canada) to its mouth in the Bering Sea (Alaska). Ian Finch (UK) and Caroline Côté (Canada) were filming a documentary telling the story of the many native cultures that still live along the river and how the modern world and shifting environment was changing their traditional ways of living on the Yukon River. Jay Kolsch (NYC, USA) documented the expedition with his photography.

Then from April to November 2018, I paddled by canoe across the United States of America, from the Pacific Ocean in Astoria (Oregon) to the Atlantic Ocean at the tip of Florida in Key Largo. As you can imagine, this trip took a gruelling 191 days to complete the 7,500 km from coast to coast. Inspired by Verlen Kruger, Bill Mason and Frank Wolf, this adventure took me across America’s natural waters to pursue my dream of discovery, understanding and consciousness of the world around me. The expedition has been named-awarded ‘America Dream Adventure of the Year’.

In 2024, I plan to cross Russia by canoe and travel 4,000 km in 130 days. My team will start at the border of Mongolia, on the Selenge River, which will bring us to Lake Baikal. After that, we will take the Angara River, which joins the Yenisei River a little further north. We will end up in the Kara Sea, in the Arctic Ocean.