Words: Martin Rickard
Photos: Tom Vetterl &
George Shaw
Many thanks to
George Shaw: www.seakayakingisleofman.com
Tom Vettel: Adventure film maker – https://tomvetterl.com
Tove from Zurich, Charles from the USA, Mark from the UK, Patric from Quebec, and Sean from the UK, for helping make it a memorable adventure.
Martin Rickard bio
ISKGA Advanced Guide. BCU Guide. RYA. Winter Mountain Leader. Based on the west coast of Scotland, Martin specialises in guided expeditions and expedition support on the east coast of Greenland. He’s guided annual trips to East Greenland since 2008 when he established an expedition base in Tasiilaq. Sponsored by Kokatat; Sea Kayaking UK; Celtic Paddles; Terra Nova Tents and Reed Chillcheater.
Further info: www.greenlandkayakexpeditions.com
Martin Rickard
The Cold Fix
Last summer was my first real chance to get back to East Greenland since Covid
By the summer of 2021, much of the world had opened up again, but East Greenland was still only accessible from the west coast, making logistics and costings prohibitive.
After a couple of years of waiting, the team could finally travel. Ironically, after the height of the pandemic, there were now no restrictions, precautions, or requirements even to wear masks. It all felt bizarre.
A few folks had understandably had to drop out, but they regretted it later once we got back; however, the bulk of the team had hung in there and was thankful to get going.
I always have a plan, usually two or three. I am well known for ‘options’ – I usually don’t share them at the start as this can cause unnecessary disappointment if it doesn’t come together.
However, this time all the ducks lined up perfectly. and the late winter ice that had stopped me and a few mates earlier in June had finally moved out. We had a clear and shared goal with the remit to, if possible, get some quality film footage for a future project – a professionally produced documentary about Gino Watkins.
The mission
Consequently, we were on a mission – to paddle south from Tasiilaq, around the nose into Sermilik, cross over and then head to Nagtivit. Explore the area, visit Watkins 1931 base camp, access the Greenland ice sheet and eventually return having circumnavigated Angmassalik Island.
The first day was a crux as we needed perfect conditions to get around the prominent headland on the south end of Angmagssalik island. It’s an area I have often had to retreat from, and if this were the case due to ice, then our plans would be seriously jeopardised.
It was windy with down drafts and squalls, but the ice allowed us through. Wind, ice, and tide don’t mix, and we were a little committed with no landings all day.
We had a fantastic encounter with a humpback whale just past the huge headland and finally stopped as planned at the small, abandoned settlement of Ikateq. This is potentially polar bear territory, so rather than have to do a waking watch on the first night; we elected to bivi out in one of the old derelict buildings.
Although damp and very musty, psychologically, this was a comfort and probably saved a little time when packing up in the morning.
High elliptical clouds indicated a possible change in the weather, but from the top of the hill, the sea and ice conditions looked reasonable for crossing over at the entrance of Sermilik fjord. Spirits were high, and folk were upbeat, perhaps masking their slight trepidation of the day ahead.
We set out at a steady pace and in close formation easing ourselves into the day. At about the midpoint, the fog rolled in very thickly; first, we lost the tops of the mountains, then the distant shoreline. Large bergs started to melt into the fog, and visibility was down to no more than 50 metres within a very short time. We certainly all felt we were on for a real adventure.
We all have different skills and interests, and it became clear that Mark was very into his gadgets. GPS, waypoints, time and distance and averages etc. – I struggle to embrace this, but it was a good memoir once back home.
Consequently, he was given a clear brief and designated as the lead boat. The rest of us followed, keeping an eye on the trusty old compass. The magnetic variation varies dramatically in this region; only a visual bearing on a known point of land is reliable.
It’s strange how the eye is fooled, and there were several times when someone would shout that they could see land, only to discover it was a gigantic iceberg looming out of the fog. This was, in fact, a bit of an issue as these mountains of ice need to be treated with a huge amount of respect and given a very wide berth. This was impossible, especially as the far shore was chocka block with massive, grounded icebergs, which we were forced to wind our way through.
With some relief, we eventually reached land and could fabricate a landing and a very late lunch/rest stop. The plan for the latter part of the afternoon and early evening was to push round the next prominent headland and head in towards Nagtivit.
retrace our route
Unfortunately, the fog was still thick. When we later encountered thick and fast-moving brash ice (broken bits about the size of a car door or smaller, which you can’t force a route through, turn around in or get out on if you became trapped), we were left with no option but to retrace our route. It was impossible to see how far it went out to sea from the headland; it was all moving fast in the current and was too dangerous to venture into. So reluctantly, we hauled out and made camp on some suitable rocks we had identified an hour earlier.
Tom was here first as an experienced expedition paddler to get footage for a professional documentary about the British Arctic Air Route Expeditions and the life of Gino Watkins and his team.
Once the boats were safe, he was straight up the hill and flying his drone before he or we had even put our tents up. The ‘light’ was perfect! The extra energy and commitment required to film on trips like this and do it well never escapes me. Thanks, Tom.
Trips like this depend on good teamwork, especially when everyone is tired and hungry at the end of a long day. Everyone mucks in, lifting heavy boats safely up awkward rocks, cooking together, fettling boats, helping to adjust gear etc. I am always impressed that it takes a group of individuals only a short time to become a strong, cohesive team in this environment.
We introduced the bear watch that evening and checked the guns in case we should have to scare one away. It had been an amazing day, with excellent conditions; we were all on a high and now well on our way. We fell asleep listening to the crashing, thunderous noises of icebergs breaking and rolling in our little bay. Several times I stuck my head out to check and even once moved my tent to higher ground as falling ice created some significant waves. This was not an ideal campsite, but there had been no better options.
The next crux was whether the ice or fog would have cleared from that headland the following morning; either one would do.
Tom did a lot of filming during the evenings as every camp produced perfect locations, we were definitely in Watkins territory, and he would have travelled, explored, mapped, and hunted along this section of the coast back in 1930/31.
Global warming is seriously affecting this part of Greenland, and it will soon change beyond recognition; however, looking out to sea and along our immediate rocky section of the coast, it looked exactly like it would have done back in the 1930s.
The next day we had a ‘green light’ at the headland…. no fog or ice. Quietly, softly whispering to me at the back of my mind, I detected that little nagging voice of doubt, “But what will you do if it’s back when it’s time to return.” Fortunately, it was clear on our way back, but I did have a cunning plan.
I was very touched by everyone’s genuine interest when exploring Watkins’s base site. The 1930/31 team had been sponsored by Pan American Airlines to evaluate the practicalities of a transatlantic air route. There were still many interesting artefacts to find. I had told folk about Gino Watkins’s BAARE trips, and they were well-read. It was great to see they were as fascinated as I am by what had gone on here only 90 years ago.
Greenland ice sheet
Using the drone to film the Greenland ice sheet produced some amazing footage, and I was astonished at how much it had receded since I was last there with a group in 2018.
We didn’t rush; it’s a place to explore, absorb nature, listen to the silence, and appreciate this wild, remote, rugged environment. You can almost taste on the wind the history that is here.
So strange to think of those guys in 1931, overwintering and living in this isolated spot and, even more impressive, the local Greenlandic people who, for centuries, survived entirely by hunting.
During the latter part of our adventure, we paddled North for several days into Sermilik fjord, where many of the local icebergs are born.
Sea kayaking quietly amongst the ice provided us with some incredible wildlife sightings. Humpback and Finn whales are not uncommon. However, seals are shy and elusive as they are heavily hunted for food and have learnt to avoid humans, even those in kayaks. Narwal, too, can be witnessed here and if you are lucky (which depends on your outlook), so can the occasional polar bear.
Inuit settlements
During our return, we were also able to stop and explore many ancient Inuit settlements, which in this area are dotted along the coast. They generally make for a good landing and campsite with a reliable fresh water supply, and there is always plenty to explore during the evening.
These were permanent bases and lived in all year round, even as late as the time Gino was here in the early 30s – such a hard life.
East Greenlandic people now live in modern houses, mainly in the larger settlement of Tasiilaq and several outlying smaller villages. I have made many good contacts over the years, and it was nice to have a rest day and entertain a couple of friends at our campsite in Tiniteqilaq. We visited the small shop and got to the service house in time for a shower which was a treat. Later we had a huge feast of deep-fried sausages, fried frozen chips and several beers while sitting around a driftwood campfire (mainly washed-up pallets).
We stayed up well after the fire had died, it was very chilly, but several whales were sounding amongst the ice in the bay, and we had such fantastic views in all directions that everyone was reluctant to go to bed.
payback time
Our route from here left the inland ice and took us down into the fjord system. It’s often a calm and sheltered route, but this turned out to be ‘payback time’ for the perfect conditions we had been previously experiencing. Although the headwinds down the east side of the island were a bit of a grunt, it was a safe area, and it was just a case of turning it up a gear and getting on through – it was a fantastic place to be, sharing it with likeminded folk was undoubtedly a privilege.
More about this trip can be found via the video link https://youtu.be/d8Xl7kPA-5k?t=1. This was a memorable trip; rolling is optional and was just for fun!
Ironically having had this trip delayed for two years by the pandemic, we all came down with what we assumed was the Flu. We felt rough and, in the end, elected to stay in a rental house my friend has for the last few days. I desperately needed to get well as my next team were due to arrive shortly from Iceland. Once home, several of the team tested positive for Covid, so I assume we all had got it again. Fortunately, I was soon on the mend and could share this amazing area with my other teams that summer.
