By Helen Trehoret
Bio
Helen is a busy British mother of two who lives in Bretagne, France with a passion for all things ocean and a regular writer for the Paddler and Stand Up Paddle Magazine UK. Helen runs Barrachou SUP, a SUP tour company specialized in excursions around Bretagne and Scotland.
Catching your breath in Finistere
The French capital of downwinding. Are ready to be paddle off the beaten track? Are you prepared to be greeted by daily tides, bathed in coastal sunshine, and blown by prevailing sea winds? If so, then you are ready to downwind in Finistere!
North West Finistere is downwind heaven, but where exactly is Finistere? Finistere is the most northerly department in Brittany, a region that also includes three other departments. The name indicates what you will find; it is Fini-Terre, land’s end!
Two things that you will get in North Finistere are wind and waves. People who live here are addicted to them both; it takes time for visitors to understand and accept these elements. The reason why North West Finistere is so beautiful because of these two elements!
It is thanks to these two elements that make Finistere perfect for surf ski. Finistere’s unique geographical orientation means that you can find a downwind run at anyone time, sheltered, gnarly, flat water or adrenaline pumping. Whatever you want, you can get it!
My paddle base is Guisseny, a village founded by an Irish priest Saint Sezny who sailed from Ireland, there is a very strong Celtic connection in Finistere. Guisseny is part of the Cote Des Legendes an area made famous by the famous ship wreckers of yesteryear. This is definitely off the traditional tourist trail. The coastline is wild, Atlantic waves crash on the huge granite boulders that scatter the coastline, some say these huge granite boulders are giants that have been turned into stone. These stones make the Cote Des Legendes a life-size playground for a wide range of watersports, including surf ski.
It is no surprise that some of the top French downwind paddlers come from this area, and if you want to see where the magic lies, read on!
In our area we have named the downwind runs in reference to the Moloko! The grandfather of all downwind runs!
Skooliko
We are starting local. This is one of the of my favourite runs and is at our base, Guisseny. Guisseny is located on a bay named ‘the Gulf of Tressény’. Measuring two kilometres by 500 metres, it opens out onto the Atlantic. This bay is subjected to substantial tidal variations, emptying twice daily on the low tide and refilling on the high. Unlike British measurements, the way of talking about tides, is by referring to the coefficient, with 115 being the highest tidal variance (spring tides) and the lowest being 45 (neap tides). It is these coefficients that rule this area. Everyone knows when the Grand Marees are coming, from fishermen to cockle pickers and more importantly surf skiers!
On spring tides this bay fills to the brim, this coupled with the winter waves ignites it into life!
Everything about this bay screams wind from October through to March; it is the wind seekers paradise. The entry point to this is Barrachou, which takes its name from the word windy place in the local language, Breton.
On the high tide and in a north westerly swell, this bay lights up if the swell forecast reads anything over two metres at high tide a rolling wave enters the bay creating runs that start 1,000 metres out and end at the primary school that is situated at the end of the bay. Making good connections between the wave sections allows to jump each zone in the bay and all over.
There are sections to this wave that you can engage in to increase the wave size or the wind strength you want to have on your back, and when you have had enough, there are channels to follow that pull you back out and restart the run, the run known as the lift.
When it is four metres out in the ocean, a perfect two-metre wave is pushed into the bay. The beauty of this bay is that when things go wrong, you can always bail out at any number of the beaches alongside the bay.
This place is the perfect training ground for learning how to catch bumps, and paddle downwind. The goal is always to see if you connect with the waves to take you to the local primary school that sits right at the end of the bay, which is the reason for the name! The beauty of this location is that you have a ready-made spectators area along the bay, so you can give the locals a wave as you catch a beautiful Skooliko wave!
Aberliko
Aber is the Breton word for where the rivers join the sea, in North Finistere, we have three Abers, Aber W’rach, Aber Benoit and Aber Ildut, all tidal rivers that run into the North Atlantic. Aber W’rach is the Aber of my choosing, it runs between Plouguerneau and its namesake Aber W’rach, and is the closest one to my base.
The Aber W’rach has a north-westerly orientation. Anything over 25 knots and swell size over three metres this is the place to come. It offers protection, but at the same time, the orientation of the river means that it offers runs, ideal for interval training downwind, without the added stress of a cresting four metre wave hammering down on you!
The beauty of this spot is the beauty and history; the Aber W’rach run starts at the Iles aux Americans. The Americans seconded this island in the first world war to build an aquaplane base. The area is lined with oyster racks. In the summer, when you paddle (in calmer conditions), the whole area is filled with the oyster farmers’ noises shaking the cages.
Further down the river, the topography deepens, channelling the wind, ideal for a direct downwind, strong winds but safe. Here, the river runs into a small gorge that was formed in the last glacial period; the banks are lined with trees, with small inlets to turn into, a perfect resting place if you need to catch your breath! The midsection of this run is Paluden; once you turn the corner the river becomes less influenced by the sea and more into a freshwater paddle, now you are entering farming country. This run Aberliko is the natures run, when it’s too nautical out at sea, like many seafarers before, you come to the Abers to be protected!
Radiliko
This is one of the best downwinders in Finistere, is based on The Rade. The Rade is a body of water that forms the Port of Brest. A huge nautical centre, you will find any kind of watersports action here. When the wind is south-westerly, and the tide is rising you can paddle from Crozon Peninsula right up the Rade, a good run would be up to 10 KM. For those who can’t secure a one way lift to Crozon (or have a nice friend to drop them off), the alternative is to get in at Moulin Blanc.
This is the crème de la crème of downwinding, and you don’t have to go for the full monty. Once off the slip, you have to paddle upwind as far as you can towards a famous yellow shipping buoy, before launching yourself into mid-channel and starting your downwind run! The further you go into the middle of the channel, the more ‘engaged’ the paddling is! If you are in the mood for something calmer you can keep to the channel’s side, and you will still be able to connect to the bumps. Downwind here on the Rade is one of the best sensations and experiences, especially going under the famous Brest Bridge, once you have made it to this point you have had the best 30 minutes that the Rade can give you!
These are a small selection of the downwind runs in Finistere. If you want to experience the true Finistere experience then head over to Barrachou paddle, we have every wind you will want and create the best downwind holiday you could hope for!
