By Adam Evans and Angela Ward
Adam’s bio
Adam is a professional Mental Game Performance Coach, a British Canoeing Guide Scheme Assessor, Advanced Canoe Leader and Canoe Coach/Wilderness Guide. Adam is kindly supported by Hou Canoes and Palm Equipment. www.houcanoes.com www.palmequipmenteurope.com.
Angela’s bio
Angela works full-time for the NHS as an Orthoptist/Low Vision Assessor and loves journeying by canoe to escape into the wilderness and take photographs.
Thank you to Ethan Todd from Freebird Paddles for crafting me a fantastic new addition to my paddle collection, an ultra-lightweight Big Dipper. www.freebirdpaddles.co.uk
Cam Loch crazy skies
SATURDAY 18th SEPTEMBER
It was a welcome relief to arrive in Contin after a very long day on the road. Checking in at the Achilty Guest House, we lugged our dry bags inside for a last-minute kit-shuffle and headed into Dingwall in desperate search of an evening meal. On our previous visits, we’d had such Scottish delicacies as deep-fried burgers and deep-fried Mars bars, so we opted for the classic British fish, chips, and mushy peas in keeping with the same culinary theme. Outside we ate furtively and protectively whilst being eagerly watched by a large, somewhat feisty looking seagull who seemed ready to snaffle our well-earned fodder.
SUNDAY 19th SEPTEMBER
Fuelled up with a lavish continental breakfast and car loaded with the shuffled and re-packed dry bags, we headed up to Elphin. We found an excellent get-on point just out of the village, only a stone’s throw from the roadside, an obvious fishing access spot with small wooden boats and mooring points. Nearby was a danger sign warning of ‘overhead electric power lines’ and ‘always carry rods, poles and other equipment at a low level, parallel to the ground.’
Boats loaded and afloat on the small river, the water seemed a touch shallow here and there for paddling. We decided with caution it was safe enough to use traditional poling techniques as we made our way carefully along with this tributary feeding into Cam Loch. After a few meanders and in no time at all, we were on the edge of the loch itself and caught our first glimpse of the majestic Suilven. It very much felt like we were returning home, having climbed Suilven on our last trip to Inverpolly in September 2018.
Suilven was tempting us closer, but we opted to make a slight detour and so rounded Eilean na Gartaig. We were heading towards the head of the waterfall for some poling and snubbing fun in the shallow rocky waters. It also allowed us to see if we could take a canoe down the river between Cam Loch and Loch Veyatie, but we got our answer rather bluntly, with two vertical four-metre drops making up the falls.
Poling back onto the loch in this grand landscape was an added bonus. The wind was now kissing the backs of our necks, prompting us to raise our sailing rigs and gently cruise towards Suilven. The view of this iconic place was only made better by sailing, allowing us to relax in our boats and savour the enveloping scene. Along the edge of the loch, we earmarked a couple of possible camping locations as it’s always good to think ahead just in case we need to get off the water quickly. As it was still daylight and the weather was kind to us, we decided to press on.
perfect location to set up camp
At the very tip of the loch, we found the perfect location to set up camp. It was flat, soft, and the pegs would go in deeply, so what more could we ask? To lighten our boats, we offloaded our portage bags and poled up the nearby tiny tributary to see how much closer we could get to Suilven. After only a handful of meanders, the shallow water became even shallower, and the bends became even bendier. Thus, canoeing would become portaging, so we turned around after a few commemorative photos.
The perfect camp spot made pitching Terje the Tipi quick and easy. The weather was clear, cool, and dry, which allowed us to prepare our evening meal on the beach. Firepot Food main meal, followed by obligatory chocolate brownies and Glayva afterwards. Our stunning location certainly made for a memorable meal spot. Sometimes it’s where you eat and not what you eat, making it so magical.
As the shadows grew longer, the still air began to cool, and the sky reddened. On top of the glassy water, mirrored metallic clouds touched with tangerine, cast off deep into the horizon. The scene, much like a painting, we poetically named ‘Cam Loch crazy skies’. We both knew that even if we didn’t take any more photos during the next week, the ones we took on that evening would have made the whole trip worthwhile.
Darkness inched closer, and the skies over Suilven took on a fiery pomegranate hue. As the late summer clouds shrouded Suilven, we walked, paddled and poled in the still evening, soaking up the beauty of the moment, mesmerised by the colours and shapes around us.
tactical planning
We knew full well this paddle trip would involve some tactical planning due to weather warnings and an approaching storm. With wind directions swinging 180 degrees over the coming week and force 7 to 9 predicted, we knew full well that a few days might be spent off the water. So be it, what better place to explore on foot, knowing we had all the comforts set up back at our canoe camp.
Exploring by foot gives a different perspective; we have found ourselves engaging with a more serendipitous journey style while canoeing. Getting out of the boats whenever we feel the urge, or think “I wonder what’s over there?” After all, that’s what canoes are for, travel and exploration.
The shores and hills around Cam Loch are peppered with places of beauty and rugged Scottish nature. There are signs of old habitations in places, and you wonder how on earth they made an existence here as it’s so exposed and so bleak.
Wearing hill kits and carrying day packs and maps allowed us to venture anywhere we liked. Moving with just the two of us allowed us to go quietly and gave us the freedom to choose our pace and destination.
The winds ripped across the open waters and exposed hills of Inverpolly as we wandered, reminding us of our good decision to walk and not paddle.
Across the slopes and within no time at all, we were rewarded with a beautiful and unexpected sight. A herd of wild red deer were roaming on the hillside before us in the distance. There is something extraordinary about observing wildlife in their natural habitat, plus it was an excellent opportunity for Adam to test out his new camera. Despite creeping forward on our knees, the deer spotted us, ran effortlessly across the undulating terrain, and were out of sight within seconds.
A year or so before, we had sailed along Loch Veyatie, which we could see just below us. Today we took the simple opportunity to eat hot lunch on the shores of the loch. The weather was in stark contrast to that visit. Then, we journeyed in glorious sunshine, but today, the wind had picked up to such an extent that it tore the water’s surface, ripping spray up in spiralling vortexes and blowing it off the cresting waves. Definitely not a day to be on the water!
torrential rain
As we walked back over the tops towards Cam Loch, the clouds glowered at us, and the threat of torrential rain looked imminent. We donned our waterproofs and pressed onwards and upwards back to the loch. It was well worth the effort as we were eventually rewarded with aerial views of the canoes and Terje the Tipi, our temporary home on the shores of Cam Loch.
It has become customary on paddle expeds to enjoy watching downloaded films in Cinema Tipi. Free admission, front row seats, snacks and Glayva are always guaranteed. We tried to get some sleep with the wind howling around outside and tugging at the guy lines.
I woke up at around 23.30 to hear a gravelly noise over the sound of the howling winds. I ignored it initially until I heard the same curious sound a few minutes later and went to investigate. As I unzipped Terje’s door, I was greeted by a sharp view of a bright moon, enshrouded by thin quick moving clouds. Usually, at this point, I’d be reaching for my camera, but my attention was very quickly drawn to a view of where our boats had been, had been the operative word because they were no longer there.
I roused Adam from his slumber by breaking the news that we had a problem with our boats, i.e. they’d vanished. In the distance, it was possible to make out the shadow of my boat on the loch, about 30 metres away. Adam’s boat was bobbing on the tributary which we’d previously poled along, approximately 30 metres in weirdly the opposite direction. Adam’s paddles and pole were still safely stowed in his boat, whereas mine were on the beach where I’d left them.
There was no time to hesitate as Adam, clad in just his underpants, Crocs, and a PFD, waded out in the chilly water to each boat. A short salvage mission was done; both boats were dragged up onto the grass and secured with copious amounts of cordage and twelve tent pegs to keep them in place.
All’s well that ends well, but it was a surreal experience that shows the force of wind and once again a great decision not to paddle.
WEDNESDAY 22nd SEPTEMBER
Overnight, the world outside our Tipi became much quieter, and a perfect wind direction pointed us home towards the car. Camp struck and canoes loaded, we sailed straight off our prime Tipi spot and were in the middle of the Loch in minutes. We stayed close to each other in force 4 to 5 conditions and played carefully, planning our turns way ahead to sail around the islands en route.
The wind was in our favour, so much so that we needed only to steer, and it carried us, not only across the loch but evenly up the small 8m wide tributary. We steered precisely and sailed around each meander to the very start of our journey at the fishing boat moorings, landing on the shallow gravel bank. It has to be said that sailing up this small river under total control made it a gem of a day.
Our few days in the wilderness had been somewhat eventful although incredibly fulfilling, perfectly illustrating the concept that attitude is the difference between an ordeal and an adventure!
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thank you to Kjetil Knudsen and the Nortent Team. My Lavvu 6 (affectionately known as Terje the Tipi) is superbly designed and crafted, providing the reassurance of a safe shelter in remote locations.
