Words: Richard Janes
and Paul Williams

Photos: Dr Andrew Miles.
Art: Molly Gilbert

Under the spell of Arisaig

This article aims to convey an impression of the wonderful sea kayaking available to a group of mixed paddling experiences from a campsite base around Arisaig.

We had been asked to organise a trip to the west coast of Scotland. Our group of nine included two coaches (Advanced Water), Paul and myself. We had all previously met and paddled together on Ynys Mon (Anglesey, north Wales) in preparation for the trip.

Our group included folk from as far afield as mid-Wales, Somerset and southern England. Anywhere on the west coast would be a long haul! We wanted a location with stunning scenery and great paddling with options should the weather be less than favourable. Whilst challenging at times, the trip was planned to enjoy sea kayaking skills, not push them. We also wanted a campsite base. Paul and I have previously explored the area and ‘Small Isles’, wild camping where possible. We felt a group of this size would put too much pressure on local environments and communities. The excellent facilities of our chosen commercial campsite at Bun na caim (north of Arisaig) within boat carrying distance of a most stunning beach, along with the guarantee of a ‘home’ base should the weather turn, was important and worked very well!

Saturday
We arrived Saturday. Times staggered by distance, vehicle and style. Glynn (desperate for a brew) proudly announced his ageing ‘Defender’ had overtaken a bicycle on his long journey from Derbyshire. Kathryn and Molly were quickly organised, having treated themselves in the local Hotel. Very soon, plans started to form.

Our first day was a planned ‘shake down’ day. Strong winds out of the north, so considering tide and wind, we paddled south and around the outside of the Arisaig Skerries. Wind and a chunky swell gave challenge but all within capabilities.

Kathryn, relatively new to ocean swell rode the waves with determination and style! Passing Luinga Mhor, we entered the Skerries via the South Channel for sunshine, lunch and a rising tide. The views, both geographical and biological hereabouts, are truly outstanding. Many Common seals and a dazzling abundance of flowers. The Cuilin of Skye, Rhum and the amazing outline of Eigg. All changing colours in the bright, breezy conditions.

The natural harbour of Arisaig was now filling rapidly, so we paddled out of a more landward gap (Caolas Eilean Ighe), hiding from the breeze for the short journey home.

Eigg stands alone, stark.
Dark silhouette, brooding sentinel,
An Old Master.
Her ancient rock holds fast
In a living sea, changing colour,
With brush strokes of the sun. 

With the boats close to the sea, it was an easy choice on day two to go north towards Morar. We were playing, rock hopping and with Josh and Andrew leading the charge to surf any ‘tasty’ looking wave along the coast. We landed at Camas Darach for lunch.

Carribean blue sea and white sand, watched over by the Small Isles. Gorgeous! With a strong northerly breeze to paddle into and following an extended, sunny lunch, it was an easy call to return the way we came with more playing in crystal clear turquoise water.

You really can’t get enough of the Arisaig Skerries! Scenery, wildlife and colour. We were back again on day three to paddle through the Skerries with their attendant seals and around a very lively Rubh’ Arisaig whilst watched over by ‘Belted Galloway’ cattle on the headland and land on a little piece of heaven on Earth at Port na Murrach.

Cunning plan
Then the weather changed. And we had some of our best paddling! Winds turned around to the south on day four and were set to increase later in the day. As Baldrick in Blackadder might say, “A very, very, very cunning plan,” was needed.

So the planning team, that is, everybody, devised a plan to put onto Loch Ailort and paddle around Rhuba Chaolais, which divides Loch nan Uamh from Loch Ailort. Shelter, followed by the wind behind. And to get back? Now, it has to be said I hate shuttles. I’m not sharp enough to work it all out. But we had bright and clever brains in this team; oh yes, along with Glynn’s defender, parked (with permission) at Loch nan Uamh.

Brilliance between shadows as
Clouds cross the sky.
Sea shining, emerald as spring grass,
Changing to the colour of bluebells,
And softens in advance of the squall

After a leisurely paddle along Loch Ailort and lunch on Eilean nan Gobhar, we couldn’t find the forts which were marked on the map, but munching on lunch, it was easy to reflect what an important place it would be in defence of a waterway. Lunch gone, the paddling became more serious. Swells coming in from the west, and clapotis followed by long surf waves down Loch nan Uamh. The team did well in such challenging waters! We landed as the weather clamped down. Rain and increasing wind strength, we were glad to see Glynn’s Landrover.

Mirror-calm seas
Sometimes, weather, tide, swell and luck come together. A circumnavigation of Eilean Shona and Eilean Beag was high on our target list. The forecast was for heavy rain in the morning (which it did), clearing in the afternoon. Along with a rising Spring tide. Living the plan and following a most wonderful ‘Cullen Skink’ in the Arisaig Hotel, we arrived for our afternoon/evening paddle. Launching from Doirlinn, opposite Castle Tioram, we paddled down the South Channel on mirror-calm seas. Stunning light shared with an otter. We met the ocean, swell, ‘boomers’ and an invigorating smell of the sea as we paddled along the coast towards the North Channel. We stopped for a break to soak up the atmosphere on Rubh Aird an Fheidh. With the evening sun behind us, a truly magical place.

With the squall comes the wind,
Adding white to the palette,
Mixing with silver.
Electric shards against the darkening sky.
Now clouds overloaded, purple
Heavy with rain,
Sweep over Eigg,
Driving all colour to black.

Under a spell
Our timing meant we had considerable water under our hulls as we glided down the North Channel. As we passed Shona Beag, Castle Tioram dominated our return. In this light, the castle appeared intact, even inhabited. We were indeed under a spell of some sort. The spell continued with an easy landing, only to be broken by ‘welcoming’ midges and the speed of getting changed.

A good forecast for day six! And the decision to go north (ish). Launching at Mallaig we quickly escaped the morning bustle and smells of the harbour and headed into beautiful Loch Nevis. Original plan, Inveree. Why? ‘Cos there’s a pub there, but as the Dubliners once sang, “But there’s-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear than to stand in the bar of an of a pub with no beer.” Closed for refurbishment! Never mind, Sarah had arranged a fabulous meal at the Arisaig Hotel. So we paddled with enthusiasm for an ‘early bath’ but not before lunch on another fantastic white sand beach on the North side of the Loch, overlooked by a statue.

Our wonderful adventures were now drawing to a close. On our last day, we visited beautiful Loch Morar to explore the islands at the Western end. We watched a white-tailed Sea Eagle as we gently glided past the nest high on a tree. She had a super location. Her nest was sheltered with access to Morar and a few wing flaps of the coast with its pristine white sands.

And our trip ended as the sun disappeared somewhere to the west. Behind the islands and setting beautiful memories. As John said, “Memories until we come back.”

Through the clouds a window forms.
Alchemy, where the sun goes to rest.
Whilst Eigg stands so stark (in gathering dark)
Her signature,
Written Gold on the sea