Words:
Ed Loffill &
Geth Roberts
Photos:
Ed Loffill,
Shufang Ho,
Sue Gairns &
Mirco Goldhausen
Team: Sara, Lu, Bob, Sue, Shufang, Mindy, Robert, Janet, Ed, Rebecka, & Kristoffer
About Ed
Ed is most at home when he’s in the wilderness on expeditions. Originally from Cumbria, he learned to appreciate the outdoors through Lake District adventures. Backpacking, mountaineering and fell running with abandon. After moving to North Wales, sea kayaking became a natural extension of his outdoor pursuits. Since acquiring his first sea kayak in 2008, Ed has embraced opportunities to play in tideraces and embark on journeys with his camping kit, both solo and with friends. His adventures have taken him to many islands in Scotland, along Ireland’s Atlantic coastline, and on three expeditions to Arctic Norway, exploring the large islands of Sørøya and Senja, as well as the beautiful archipelagos around Sommarøy, Håja, Kvaløya, and Vengsøya. Ed is also a Sea Kayaking Wales partner and expedition leader.
About Geth
Geth founded Sea Kayaking Wales seven years ago with his wife, Kirsty, and serves as SKW’s head coach. He provides British Canoeing awards, coaching, and mentoring to both participants and the coaching team. Geth has been instrumental in driving SKW’s expedition programme, hosting adventure opportunities in Norway and Scotland. Beyond kayaking, he enjoys biking, running, and exploring the mountains – and raising an awesome family with three young children.
About Sea Kayaking Wales
Based in Anglesey, Sea Kayaking Wales (SKW) offers expedition and holiday opportunities in Scotland, Norway, and Pembrokeshire, with plans to add Mediterranean and Irish destinations to the list. SKW also runs progressive coaching courses on Anglesey, from beginner to advanced levels, and is a provider of all British Canoeing Leadership, Coach, Safety, and Personal Performance awards. Clubs and groups are encouraged to hire SKW for meets and expeditions. In addition to coaching, SKW is a dealer for Sea Kayaking UK, Tiderace, Zegul, and Rockpool sea kayaks—most models are available to demo on courses and expeditions. For more information or to register your interest in upcoming trips, visit www.seakayakingwales.com and www.skwkayaks.com
Arctic Tromsø Archipelagos: Sea kayaking the islands of Senja, Kvaløya and Håja
Building on the momentum of our unforgettable 2024 Arctic Norway expedition, Sea Kayaking Wales (SKW) returned to the far north of Norway in 2025 with even greater ambition and energy. Last year’s journey – traversing the wild islands of Senja, Kvaløya, Sommarøy, Håja, and Vengsøya – provided an unforgettable trip for SKW, full of adventure, teamwork, and discovery beneath the midnight sun.
This summer in 2025, our ambitions expanded: for the first time, we fielded two dedicated expedition teams to Arctic Norway. The Hammerfest Sørøya team set out to circumnavigate one of Arctic Norway’s most northerly and remote islands. Facing ever-changing weather, exposed cliffs, and spectacular wildlife. The Sørøya paddlers forged unforgettable memories and deepened their connection to Norway’s wild coastline, as described by Schur and Roberts in The Paddler Magazine (October 2025), Circumnavigating Sørøya https://paddlerezine.com/circumnavigating-soroya/.
Soon after, our Tromsø Archipelagos team embarked on a traverse of the classic route through Senja, Kvaløya, Sommarøy, and Håja, drawing on the experience built in 2024 and further honed by some of the leadership team in the preceding weeks. Both groups were united by a shared passion for wild places, teamwork, and the pursuit of adventure in some of Europe’s most awe-inspiring seascapes.
What follows is the team log from the 2025 Tromsø Archipelagos expedition—a record of the challenges faced, the friendships forged, and the adventures of Sea Kayaking Wales above the Arctic Circle.
Expedition log
Day Minus 1 – Arrival in Tromsø
The adventure began as the team gathered in the afternoon at the Comfort Hotel Xpress, right in the heart of downtown Tromsø. Spirits were high as Sara, Lu, Bob, Sue, Shufang, Mindy, Robert, and Janet met up with leaders Ed, Rebecka, and Kristoffer, along with van and trailer support driver Andras. The evening was spent sharing plans, food, drinks, and anticipation for the journey ahead.
Day 1 – Setting Off for Senja
The morning was filled with last-minute shopping for the 10 days ahead and other preparations around Tromsø. Andras took charge of transporting the sea kayaks and expedition gear by van and trailer, while the rest of the team boarded the fast ferry for a scenic 1 hour and 15 minute ride to Finnsnes. A minibus carried everyone onward to Rødsand, where sea kayaks were packed and launched for a short but memorable 5 km paddle to the first wild camp, marking the beginning of the expedition.
Day 2 – The Long West Coast Traverse
Day two brought a real test of endurance and teamwork: a demanding journey of over 34 km along Senja’s wild west coast, weaving through four offshore archipelagos. The weather was as changeable as the scenery, with sun, wind, and showers all making appearances, and some lively sea conditions keeping everyone sharp. A highlight was the crossing to the historic Holmenvær archipelago – in the 1890s it had the largest fishing village in Troms County, now uninhabited, trading in the white gold of abundant Cod. The day ended with a well-earned rest at Sandvika Bay, the sense of accomplishment running high after such a confidence-building day.
Day 3 – To the Bergsøyan Archipelago
After a memorable encounter with a herd of local reindeer, the expedition continued with a 19 km coastal journey, hugging Senja’s dramatic shoreline en route to the enchanting Bergsøyan archipelago. This cluster of small islands and skerries is renowned for its crystal-clear waters, white sand beaches, and abundant birdlife. The evening was spent soaking in the tranquillity and natural beauty of this unique area.
Day 4 – Islands Exploration and Skaland
A day of exploration unfolded as the team spent 16 km weaving through Bergsøyan’s sheltered channels, discovering hidden coves and sandy beaches among the countless skerries. The turquoise waters and peaceful atmosphere offered a relaxed contrast to earlier challenges. Later, a practical side trip took some of the group across the bay to Skaland, a picturesque village beneath steep mountain slopes, to restock supplies. The team returned to their idyllic camp spot among the islands for a second night, grateful for familiar comforts and a little more time in this magical setting.
Day 5 – Relocating for New Adventures
After a leisurely 5 km paddle back to Skaland, it was time to transition to the next stage. The team loaded gear into the van and sea kayaks onto the trailer, with Andras at the wheel, and boarded the minibus for a scenic drive to the northeast of Senja – ready to begin the second part of the expedition in new waters. After a short paddle to an enchanting white beach, much freshly caught fish was consumed by the team.
Day 6 – Crossing to Sommarøy
Anticipation was high for a 24 km journey from Senja to explore the renowned Sommarøy Archipelago. Known for its white-sand beaches, turquoise waters, and vibrant fishing community, Sommarøy offered an idyllic setting for camp and the expedition’s final chapter.
Day 7 – Sommarøy to Håja via Tussøya
The route for day seven led the team 11 km through the Sommarøy Archipelago, past the tranquil island of Tussøya and onward to the striking island of Håja. With its steep cliffs and iconic profile – said to have inspired Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral – Håja provided a dramatic backdrop for camp. The day’s paddle offered a mix of open water and sheltered passages, with ever-changing views of sea and mountains.
Day 8 – Hiking Håja’s Summit
A break from paddling saw the team tackling the hike to Håja’s summit, 467 metres above sea level. The three-and-a-half-hour climb wound through rocky outcrops and wildflowers and meadows of cloudberries (a raspberry-sized fruit indigenous to the arctic region). The climb rewarded the group with sweeping vistas of the surrounding archipelago and the Norwegian mainland. Standing atop the island that inspired the design of Tromsø’s cathedral was a memorable highlight, offering a fresh perspective on the landscape they’d traversed by sea kayak.
Day 9 – South to Kvaløya
Back on the water, the team embarked on a 20 km journey south, skirting the other side of Tussøya and making steady progress toward Kvaløya Island. The scenery evolved with every stroke as rugged peaks came into sharper focus, and the sense of nearing the journey’s end grew stronger. By evening, the team was ready for a well-deserved rest, reflecting on the distance covered and experiences shared in the relative luxury and central heating of the Sommarøy Arctic hotel.
Day 10 – Return to Senja and Homeward Bound
The final day brought a 13 km paddle back to northeast Senja, retracing familiar waters with a sense of completion. A Minke Whale sighting to finish, then Andras awaited with the van and trailer, and after loading up the sea kayaks, the team boarded the minibus to Finnsnes. The fast ferry carried everyone back through the fjords to Tromsø – tired, satisfied, and full of memories from an Arctic expedition to remember.
Looking Ahead:
SKW Arctic+ Expeditions 2026
For 2026, Sea Kayaking Wales is excited to offer three distinct Arctic+ expedition options for adventurous paddlers ready to explore well above the Arctic Circle. Our planned trips include:
Arctic Bodø, Lofoten Archipelago, Moskenesøy, Værøy & Røst Islands Expedition: Paddle through Norway’s most iconic and dramatic island landscapes, navigating turquoise waters beneath towering peaks of the Lofoten Islands.
Arctic Tromsø Archipelagos, Kvaløya, Sommarøy, Håja & Vengsøya Islands Expedition: Designed for intermediate paddlers – explore the wild archipelagos around Tromsø, with their white sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, and midnight sun – perfect for those seeking a blend of classic routes and hidden gems.
Arctic Hammerfest, Sørøya Island Expedition: Take on the challenge of a traverse of Sørøya, one of the Arctic’s most remote and spectacular islands, famed for its rugged cliffs, abundant wildlife, and true sense of wilderness.
our experienced SKW coaching and logistics team and are open to intermediate and advanced sea kayakers looking for world-class adventure and camaraderie. For more details and booking information, visit www.seakayakingwales.com.
