Foreword:
Sarah Thornely

Words:
Beata Plutka

Photos:
Piotr & Beata Plutka,
Hallgeir Thorbjørnsen

Bio

Sarah’s love of SUP brought her to running SUPJunkie, covering UK and worldwide races through live feeds and interviews.

Sarah is a qualified instructor with the ASI and British Canoeing and still gets great pleasure in getting complete beginners on the water. Sarah writes for SUP Mag UK and the Paddler, and does a lot work to support the GBSUP race series as well as paddlers who are participating in adventures and challenges for charity. https://www.supjunkie.co.uk

A Lofoten SUP adventure: The art of planning and letting go

SUPjunkie reporting:  I love SUP because it has introduced me to some incredible and interesting paddlers. I want to thank Andy Joyce for his introduction to a former Polish SUP coach student of his. She had written a blog and was wondering if anyone would be interested in publishing it – cue the call to my favourite editor! 

Like many before her, Beata Plutka from Poland fell in love with SUP immediately upon stepping on a paddleboard. Since then, it’s all been about recreation, pleasure, and adventure. Beata also found it a good therapeutic tool, and it has become her huge passion, so much so that through her coaching with the ISA, she has now become an Open Water Instructor. In her own words, here is the story of Beata’s adventure to Lofoten.

Preparing for the expedition beyond the Arctic Circle took us many months. In addition to gathering equipment, it involved acquiring knowledge and experiences on warmer seas, which served as a mere introduction to the great adventure ahead. Our journey through the Lofoten Islands, considered one of the most beautiful places in the world, was a physical challenge and a spiritual journey. In the face of the forces of nature and the beauty of the landscape, we were reaffirmed in the belief that safety and respect for the world around us are the most important values. The Lofoten Islands will forever remain in our hearts as a place that blends the wildness of nature with our humility.

The heroes of the story:
Beata & Piotr – the participants of the expedition @beata.pl.pl
Hallgeir – SUP instructor, leading courses on behalf of the International Surfing Association. It all started with him, the kind soul of the SUP world in the Lofoten Islands@supreine
Marek – sea kayaking instructor, support from land, and an encyclopedia of knowledge about the Lofoten Islands @kawa_w_krzakach
Roman – the head of the SAGA Adventures Lofoten kayaking base, which was the starting point of our journey and to which we evacuated on the last day @sagalofoten

Reaching the Lofoten Islands itself is a fantastic experience. Our journey lasted over a day, and transporting the boards and all the camping gear took the difficulty to the next level. It was almost 90 kg of luggage. ‘Strength is in the mind’ – this motto has been with me for a long time, and once again, it proves that our bodies are capable of much more than we think.

How to get to the Lofoten Islands
There are several ways. We chose a flight to Bodø (with a transfer in Oslo), and then took a ferry to Moskenes (ferries for pedestrians are free, but you need to register before boarding using the QR codes available at the pier).

For the first three nights, we stayed with Hallgeir, who, along with his wife, runs a guesthouse in Å, a charming village at the very end of the Lofoten Islands.

Å is known for its picturesque landscapes, traditional architecture, and rich fishing history. In the village, you can admire the colourful rorbuer (originally used by fishermen as resting places during fishing trips, now offered to tourists) and enjoy local attractions such as fishing, hiking, and birdwatching.

Hallgeir is a very important figure in my SUP development. We met during the open water course he organised. It was our first visit to this part of Europe, and it was then that we fell in love with the Norwegian landscapes, the harsh climate, the unique views, and something else that we can’t quite define.

The time before the expedition was extraordinary and full of new SUP experiences: we returned to places we had discovered the year before, and together with Hallgeir (who offers tours and training), we took tourists from the United States and France out on the water. We sampled local delicacies, explored the area, and spent time chatting with the other residents of our guesthouse.

#LofotenSUPadventure day one
With the blue sky above us and the sun warming our faces and bodies, we set off for Reinefjord, our home for the next three nights. We took advantage of Roman’s hospitality. At his base in Hamnøya, we prepared our gear and safely launched our luggage-laden boards.

Reinefjord
Reinefjord, located in the heart of the Lofoten archipelago, is one of the most beautiful places in Norway. Paddling through this magical area made us feel like we were part of this incredible surroundings. The silence, broken only by the sound of paddles in the water and the sounds of nature (including our own chatter) made it possible for us to truly relax and enjoy the moment. It was an experience that brought unforgettable emotions and allowed us to discover the magic of the Lofoten Islands in a completely new way.

Reinefjord offers ideal conditions for kayaking and SUP – the waters are much calmer than in the open sea, the wind is less harsh, and the waves are smaller. That doesn’t mean it’s always calm, easy, and pleasant, and we were about to find that out in the following days.

Planning
Before every trip with the boards, Piotrek analyzes potential spots, watches videos on YouTube, and looks for the most interesting and beautiful locations. This time, Marek also gave us some tips, and I marked the recommended places on our map. My role is to monitor the forecast and check the water conditions. Finally, I was able to see in practice how the water level changes with the tides. Until now, I was mainly interested in the wind.

The beginning of our adventure was a continuous awe at the colour and clarity of the water, as well as the creatures living in it. It was a time to take photos and admire the views. The combination of mountains ‘rising’ straight from the fjord made us feel like tiny particles at the mercy of the forces of nature.

Portaging
After several hours of admiring the spectacular views, Hallgeir paddled towards Reine, and we headed to our first campsite. But it wasn’t that easy. After getting off the water, we faced nearly a kilometre of portaging to reach the beach we had spotted earlier.
Carrying the gear over the mountain was a challenge – slippery rocks, a steep ascent, a narrow path, and an even steeper descent down stone steps – our determination and desire to explore the beauty of the Lofoten Islands gave us strength (okay, I admit it – Piotrek carried most of the gear and was the one who made the trip twice, carrying our boards).

After a swim in the sea and supper, we went to rest. The excitement, the paddled kilometres, and the ‘hike’ to the beach allowed us to fall asleep without trouble.

#LofotenSUPadventure day two
The corner where we stopped looked like something out of a postcard. We decided to take a walk around the area and admire the breathtaking landscapes.

‘Offshore wind’ is the wind that pushes us away from the shore. It makes it harder to return and requires more effort from the paddler, increasing the risk of dangerous situations.

We admired a couple of kayakers who set off north after spending the night on the beach. This part of the Lofoten Islands is tempting but requires exceptional experience and physical preparation. Moreover, sea kayaks are a better choice for such challenges – they allow you to paddle in stronger winds and handle waves better than SUP boards.

The weather forecast showed a change: wind increasing every hour and rain. This motivated us to return to Reinefjord (which meant another portage) and continue exploring the area.

Although the route wasn’t as planned, we knew that nature followed its rules, and we had to respect them for our safety. Once again that day, we decided to let go.

Crossing the windiest section, we joined our boards to avoid separating us too much. We were heading towards a spot we had discovered the day before. It was perfect for pitching the tent for the next two nights. This was going to be a test of its durability and waterproofing.

The right to roam
‘Allemannsretten’ is a Norwegian law that translates to the ‘right to roam’ or ‘right to freely access nature.’ It allows everyone to freely use rural areas, including forests and mountains. This means that tourists can enjoy nature, set up tents, and walk along trails.

However, there are certain restrictions: private property must not be trespassed on, the environment must not be polluted, and wildlife should not be disturbed. Additionally, camping is only allowed a certain distance from houses and buildings. Respecting these rules is essential for protecting nature and local communities. There is also a time limit: camping in one spot is allowed for a maximum of two nights.

In the evening, gusts of wind reached up to 60 km/h. We also had to tie down our boards because they seemed ready to fly away at one point. The sound of raindrops pounding on the tent ‘lulled’ us to sleep…

#LofotenSUPadventure day three
The next day greeted us with clouds hanging over the peaks of the surrounding mountains. Waterfalls appeared after the night’s heavy rain, flowing like silver ribbons. What a sight it was!

The forecasted wind made us abandon our further trip, and once again, we adjusted our plans to the weather conditions. We decided to spend the time exploring the surrounding area, enjoying the tranquillity of nature around us. We circumnavigated a nearby lake, admiring its crystal-clear water and the reflections of the mountains on its surface. As we walked around the area, we discovered remnants of former inhabitants of these lands – ruins of stone huts, overgrown paths, and mysterious, moss-covered spots that could have hidden many stories. Each step brought us closer to the past.

There was time for a peaceful coffee and hammock swinging, and every moment seemed to make the world seem to stand still. Conversations flowed freely, filled with laughter, memories, and plans for the future. Then came the time for a swim in the lake – the water wasn’t nearly as cold as Piotrek claimed.

After two days of respite from seeing people, we met Roman and his group of kayakers. It felt so surreal and completely different from Poland and Mediterranean countries. And that was another thing that captivated us – we had found ourselves in a remote place where nature could show its most beautiful face.

The evening rain didn’t ruin our mood. We were prepared for it. The weather forecasts, showing strong winds and a wall of rain since the morning, kept me awake at night. With Marek, our advisor, we devised various contingency plans. His experience and knowledge made me feel more confident. We prepared different options and actions to help us survive whatever nature might throw our way. It wasn’t an easy night, and I was a bit nervous.

#LofotenSUPadventure day four
Due to the rain, we had breakfast in the tent. After the coffee, my bladder demanded relief and… that’s when the rain stopped. Contrary to earlier forecasts, there was no rain when we were packing our stuff. We made sure to take our trash and the litter we found with us because we saw signs of their presence despite the lack of people.

The Lofoten Islands are a fascinating place. The mountains surrounding the fjords make the wind behave unpredictably, not always following the app’s direction. We decided to return to Hamnøya, where Marek was waiting for us. We planned our route only after reaching the water when we could assess how the wind was reflecting off the mountains. We covered part of the journey sheltered from the gusts. We put on dry suits to protect ourselves from potential rain and thermal shock in case the choppy water caused us to fall.

Once we reached open water, our paddling took on a new character. There was wind and waves, but also great fun. Upon reaching our destination, we immediately started packing up the gear. We managed to get into the Saga Adventures Lofoten base just as the rain began to pour. A real downpour, exactly as the apps had predicted the day before. And we were already safe, well taken care of, and indulging in cinnamon buns.

Epilogue
Although I felt a slight longing after returning home, I am grateful for every moment spent on the expedition and the experiences I gained from it. It was a lesson in planning and letting go. We paddled in stunning places where there was everything: picturesque views, blue skies and clouds, sunshine and rain, wind and silence, waves and ‘mirror’ on the water, relaxation and effort, as well as moments of fear, adrenaline, and peace. It was everything that made it the most wonderful SUP adventure of our lives. We gathered memories that will stay with us forever, and the places we didn’t manage to visit this time will be waiting for us on our next journey, like mysterious gates to future adventures, eagerly calling us to return.

Recommended
@supreine trips offered by Hallgeir are perfect for everyone, from experienced paddlers to those taking their first steps on a SUP board. The top-quality equipment ensures safety and thermal comfort, while the views will make it an unforgettable experience and one of the best adventures of your life.

@kawa_w_krzakach is Marek’s Instagram profile, where he shares snapshots of their life above the Arctic Circle. Thanks to Marek, our Lofoten SUP adventure felt like a professional expedition, and we were fully prepared for any eventuality. We also recommend @huslyreine, the house that Marek and his wife offered for rent. It’s truly beautiful and ideally located. If you’re visiting the Lofoten Islands with friends, be sure to check its availability on www.booking.com.