WORDS:
LISA DREWE
PHOTOS:
LISA DREWE
Bio
Lisa is an award-winning outdoor writer, paddler and guidebook author, best known for her Paddleboarding book series published by Wild Things Publishing. She has explored hundreds of routes across Britain by paddleboard and kayak and writes regularly for outdoor and paddlesports publications.
https://www.islandeering.com
Read Lisa’s prior post on ten of the best paddling routes in London and thr South East at:https://paddlerezine.com/10-best-paddling-routes-in-the-se/
Five UK Winter paddles with pitstops
From sea lochs, mountain lakes and canals to a tidal lagoon full of military history, here are five winter paddle routes with great cafes and cosy pubs on the way.
Winter paddling offers a quieter, more considered way to explore waterways, with fewer people on the water and a natural shift towards sheltered routes and shorter, slower journeys. Cool air on your cheeks, woodsmoke drifting from canal boats, and breath lifting into pale light sharpen the experience, while landscapes stripped back to their essentials open up around you. Afterwards, there’s nothing better than cosying up by a pub fire, wrapping your hands around a warm coffee, or stepping into a welcoming café for a post-paddle treat.
Here are five of my favourite winter paddles and pitstops.
1. Loch Harport, Isle of Skye, Highland
A long, narrow and generally sheltered sea loch on the west coast of the Isle of Skye, which opens into Loch Bracadale and its scattered islands. Framed by low, heathery hills and distant views of the jagged Cuillin, its biggest draw for many visitors is one of Scotland’s most famous single malts, crafted on its shores at Talisker Distillery. But venture out on the water, and there is far more to discover, including regular sightings of sea eagles.
Once launched, paddlers have several options. At 5km long, the loch lends itself to simply exploring its indented shoreline. Paddle southeast past the village of Carbost towards Satran, and on spring high tides slip past the cemetery and wrecked fishing boats to explore the salt marshes of the River Drynoch (6km return). Alternatively, head northwest past the fisheries and out into Loch Bracadale (9km return). More experienced paddlers can continue west beyond Portnalong Harbour (11km return), then round Ardreck Point into the sheltered, sandy sweep of Fiskavaig Bay (8km one way from Carbost).
Back on shore, the village of Carbost is one of my favourite places on Skye for coffee, brunch, beer and seafood – not to mention whisky – making it a perfect post-paddle stop.
Parking & launching: Carbost Pier, IV47 8SR (£5, includes launch fee). Grid ref. NG 37601 32203; Lat, long: 57.30473, -6.35839. (www.carbostwaterfront.weebly.com).
Pitstops: Caora Dubh (https://caoracoffee.com) – for the best coffee in Skye.
The Old Inn and Waterfront Bunkhouse (www.theoldinnskye.co.uk) – best pub and music in Skye.
The Oyster Shed (www.theoystershed.com) and Three Chimneys at Talisker (https://talisker.threechimneys.co.uk) – for excellent seafood.
Café Cuil (www.cafecuil.com) – local food, brunch and cake.
Getting there: Leave the A87 at the Sligachan Hotel, take the A863 towards Dunvegan, then left onto the B8009 to Carbost. Drive through the village, pass Talisker Distillery, then immediately turn right into the parking for the pier.
Special notes: Generally sheltered from the prevailing SW winds, especially along the loch’s west coast. Avoid NW winds, which funnel down the loch. The Drynoch salt marshes empty quickly, so it’s best one hour either side of a spring high tide. If paddling to Fiskavaig Bay, take care around Ardtreck Point as any SW swell/wind can concentrate around this point.
Map: OS Explorer 410, Portree & Bracadale.
Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-loch-harport/
2. Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal Explorer: Pencelli to Talybont-on-Usk (7.5 km return)
Meander along the pretty Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal through the wooded Usk Valley, at the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park. Built to transport coal, limestone and agricultural produce, traces of this industrial heritage are still visible along the canal today.
Paddle from Pencelli on a peaceful out-and-back route to Talybont-on-Usk, with an optional tunnel extension (an extra 2.5km return). From the Pencelli slipway, turn right (southeast), passing the Royal Oak pub and continuing beneath a succession of bridges and drawbridges, with fine views across to The Blorenge.
Reach the main drawbridge on the outskirts of Talybont-on-Usk. Portage on the left bank, cross the road to rejoin the canal, then continue across the aqueduct between the Star Inn and the White Hart. For an optional extra, paddle a further 1km to reach the 343m-long Ashford Tunnel, where, halfway through, a ventilation shaft opens dramatically to the sky. Return the same way.
Access: British Waterways Licence required, which is included in membership of the Paddle UK or PaddleCymru, or can be purchased from the Canal and River Trust.
Parking: Small parking area alongside launch point (alternatively, park on the roadside on B4558 towards Pencelli Castle campsite, and access the canal down the steps beside the road bridge).
Launch: Pencelli Slipway, Talybont-on-Usk, Powys, LD3 7LX. Grid ref. SO 092 250; Lat/long 51.916, -3.322.
Pitstops: Pencelli: The Royal Oak. Good beer, popular local canalside inn (www.facebook.com/TheRoyalOakPencelli).
Talybont-on-Usk: The White Hart Inn, canalside pub and bunkhouse.
Canalside Café in Talybont village for breakfast, lunch, cake and Indian food (https://talybontstores.co.uk).
Camping: Pencelli Castle Caravan and Camping Park. Fabulous camping and caravan site on the edge of Pencelli village, close to the canal and local pub (www.pencelli-castle.com).
Getting there: A40 E from Brecon, signed towards Abergavenny; right onto B4558 signed to Pencelli; continue through the village, following signs for Plas Pencelli.
Special points: Launch from signed canoe access points only to protect the canal banks. If entering Ashford Tunnel, check the tunnel is clear of other craft before entering, wear a forward-facing bright white light and a PFD with an attached whistle. Do not attempt to paddle the tunnel alone.
Map: OS Explorer OL12, Brecon Beacons National Park (western area).
Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-pencelli-to-talybont/
3. LLynnau Mymbyr, Capel Curig
Paddle amidst Snowdonia’s highest mountains, with magnificent views of Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa), the Glyders and Moel Siabod. Fed by the River Nantygwryd and once a single lake, the growth of a delta now almost cuts the lake in two.
Launch from the gravel slipway at the lake’s east end.The stunning views of Snowdon’s Horseshore will draw you along the wooded southern shore past the boathouse and jetty to the west end of the lake, where there are also fine views of The Glyders. Continue through the narrowing, watching out for wildlife in the reedbeds, into the second lake.
Pass below Garth Farm Campsite, where the Nantygwryd enters the lake, and a couple of tiny gravel islands make a good place to sit and enjoy the views. The return along the north side of the lake is craggier with views to Craig Wen and Crimpiau at the east end of the lake as they loom over Capel Curig.
Access: No licence required.
Parking: A4086 layby, Plas-y-Brenin, Capel Curig, Betws-y-Coed LL24 0ET. Grid Ref: SH 71583 57832; Lat/long: 53.10219, -3.91954.
Launching: Via a gated path from the layby, head down the steps, cross the footbridge, turn right along the track to the water’s edge (250-metre walk). More accessible parking and launching arranged via Plas y Brenin.
Pitstops: Lolfa’r Wyddfa Bar & Dining, Plas-y-Brenin. Hearty food, local ales and superb mountain views at the outdoor centre (www.pyb.co.uk/lolfar-wyddfa-bar-dining/).
Lessons: Plas y Brenin offer a wide range of adventure sports courses, including paddlesport courses and taster sessions on the lake.
Special notes: This is a natural lake. Please clean your board before you enter to prevent the spread of non-native species. In higher river flows, take care to stay upstream of the bridge to the Plas-y-Brenin centre.
Getting there: Leave the A5 at Capel Curig; head 500m west on the A48086.
Map: OS Explorer OL17, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon).
Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-llynnau-mymbyr/
4. Calshot Lagoon to Ashlett Creek (6 km return)
A rich mix of coastal beauty and military history, this route explores the sheltered waters of Calshot Lagoon before skirting Southampton Water to Ashlett Creek and its historic inn. Protected from the Solent by the 1.5km-long shingle bank of Calshot Spit, the lagoon is a haven of saltmarsh and intertidal mudflats, supporting a wide range of resident and migratory birds.
Launch from the north side of Calshot Spit to enter the lagoon, taking time to explore the waters around Calshot Castle. Built by Henry VIII in 1539, this low, circular stone fortress once mounted heavy guns to defend the vital harbour at Southampton from seaborne attack.
Nearby, the vast hangars of Calshot Activities Centre were initially constructed as part of Calshot Naval Air Station, which operated flying boats. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, Calshot also hosted the prestigious Schneider Trophy – an international seaplane racing competition that played a key role in the development of high-speed aircraft.
Continue north past the perimeter of the former Fawley Power Station to enter Ashlett Creek and the small, picturesque harbour beyond. Here, the Jolly Sailor – a historic smuggler’s inn – offers a warm welcome and open fire, to warm up before returning the same way.
Access: No licence required. Launch: Calshot Lagoon Beach.
Parking: Calshot Activities Centre (charges), Jack Maynard Road, Fawley, SO45 1BR; Grid ref. SU 487 020; Lat/long 50.81595, -1.30937.
Pitstops: Calshot Activity Centre, basic grub with great views across the Solent (www.facebook.com/CalshotCafeBar). The Jolly Sailor, cosy pub for food and drink (www.facebook.com/AshlettCreekJollySailor).
Camping: Stunning views over the Solent to the Isle of Wight and beachside camping with Calshot Activities Centre (annual Calshot Camping Access pass required for pitch booking – £35. (hants.gov.uk/thingstodo/calshot/stay/camping).
Getting there: J2 M27, then A326 south towards Fawley. Look out for the brown tourist signs for Calshot Activities Centre.
Special points: During spring tides, a double high tide can occur, giving more time to explore within the lagoon. It’s best to enter as soon as the mud banks are covered, which can be up to 2.5 hours before high water (HW). Be mindful that the lagoon empties quickly and can catch paddlers out. It’s recommended to exit one hour after HW or to stay in deeper water around the end of the spit.
Map: OS Explorer OL22, New Forest.
Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-calshot-ashlett-creek/
5. Exeter Canal Loop (7 km circular)
A gentle, varied loop from Exeter Quay linking the Exeter Ship Canal and the River Exe, passing historic quayside buildings, a country park and water meadows.
Start at the basin at Exeter Quay and paddle south along the canal past the historic wharf buildings for 1.4km. Leave the canal just before Salmonpool Swing Bridge (Grid ref. SX 927 907; Lat/long: 50.70610, -3.52031) and portage your craft for 150 metres from the landing stage on the left bank to the River Exe, using the steps to access the water.
Continue downstream beneath the footbridge and on to Countess Weir Road Bridge. After 150m, exit the river via the steep slipway on the right. Cross the sewage works access road and use the landing stage to relaunch into the canal.
Paddle north (right) along the canal, passing back under the road bridge to reach the locks and pub. Use the pontoons opposite the Double Locks Inn to portage and stop for refreshments. Return along the canal to Exeter Quay, with excellent views of the distant cathedral and opportunities for wildlife spotting along the way.
Access: No licence required.
Parking: Haven Banks car park (charges), Michael Browning Way, Exeter EX2 8HH.
Launch: Exeter Canal basin at AS Watersports Pontoon (please keep the area free before/after launch), 300m walk from the car park, EX2 8AX. Grid ref. SX 92067 91915; Lat/long: 50.71681, -3.53023.
Pitstops: Exeter Quay Topsham Brewery and Taproom. Great beers and atmosphere for post-paddle pint (www.topshambrewery.co.uk).
Boatyard Café and Bakery. Good coffee and pastries (www.boatyardbakery.co.uk).
Double Locks Inn. Very popular Devon pub with open fires and good roasts (www.doublelocks.com).
Getting there: Approach Exeter city centre on A377, at traffic lights turn right at Haven Banks sign and follow Haven Road to the canal basin.
Special notes: On low tides, the river Exe can be shallow downstream of St James Weir, and some access points may be unusable, so starting the trip two hours either side of high tide is recommended. Watch out for other water users and the low bridge at Salmonpool on your return to Exeter Quay.
Map: OS Explorer 114, Exeter & the Exe Valley.
Full route map: www.islandeering.com/paddleboarding-exeter-canal-river-exe-loop/
Final word
With the right routes, winter paddling is about comfort as much as adventure. Sheltered water, short days and quiet surroundings make for memorable journeys – especially when they end with warm food, hot drinks and a pub or café close to the launch point.
