Words:
Geth & Kirsty Roberts
Photos:
Geth & Kirsty Roberts
Kirsty and Geth Roberts
About Geth
Geth has co-owned, with Kirsty, Sea Kayaking Wales for SEVEN years. He enjoys supporting the sea kayaking community and helping train/develop new sea kayak leaders and coaches. Kirsty and Geth live on Anglesey with their three young children.
About Sea Kayaking Wales
Based in Holyhead, Anglesey SKW provides expedition and holiday opportunities to Scotland (including St Kilda for 2026), Norway, Mallorca, Croatia and Pembrokeshire. Check out www.seakayakingwales.com for more information. Sea Kayaking Wales also runs progressive coaching courses on Anglesey, from beginner to advanced, and are providers of all the British Canoeing Leadership, Coach, Safety and Personal Performance awards. Clubs/groups are also encouraged to hire SKW for meets and expeditions. SKW is also a dealer of Sea Kayaking UK, Rockpool, Tiderace and Zegul sea kayaks. You can demo most models on the course opportunities.
Ynys Môn (Anglesey) – A premier hub for sea kayaking
While enjoying the winter sun in Mallorca, I’ve been reflecting on what makes our home, Ynys Môn (Anglesey), truly exceptional as an adventure hub. Like Mallorca, Anglesey boasts a stunning coastline, rugged mountains nearby, and convenient global access. While Mallorca is renowned for its world-class cycling and vibrant cycling scene, Anglesey shines as a superb centre for sea kayaking.
Anglesey’s Unique Sea Kayaking Environment
Anglesey is blessed with many features that make it supremely attractive as a sea kayaking destination. It has at least 75 miles (120 km) of coastline—far more if you explore the intricate bays—and offers sheltered aspects from wind and swell, most notably the magnificent and secluded Menai Straits. Within this relatively short coastline lies an impressive diversity of tidal habitats: rocky shores, towering cliffs, islands, reefs, caves, sandy beaches with dunes, shingle, estuaries, saltmarshes, and mudflats.
This diversity supports incredible biodiversity, and new species have been drawn to Anglesey with the recovery of fish stocks. Notable examples include a growing Gannet colony on Ynys Badrig (Middle Mouse) and Risso’s Dolphins, which nurture their calves along the coast in the autumn.
The Impact of Ireland and Tidal Flows
The southwest coast of Anglesey occasionally catches long-period Atlantic swells that travel up the Irish Sea. However, the swell is not the primary sea kayaking attraction. The proximity of Ireland is Anglesey kayaking’s greatest asset. Acting as a barrier to westerly ocean swells, Ireland also channels tidal energy, amplifying both the tidal range and flow in the Irish Sea.
When the tide surges past headlands, through island gaps, and over reefs and shoals, it forms marine rapids akin to river rapids. Mariners know these as tide races and/or overfalls, particularly when reefs or shoals are involved. These features create exciting technical areas for sea kayaks to play and surf, often with safe-zone eddies nearby. In optimal conditions, these tide races provide advanced yet controlled environments for rapid surfing, with minimal risk due to calmer downstream waters that make capsizes or swims easier to manage.
A Learning and Coaching Paradise
From a coaching and learning perspective, Anglesey offers progressively technical sea kayaking environments that are ideal for skill development. It’s a perfect location for both beginners and advanced sea kayakers looking to refine their skills in preparation for more remote and challenging adventures.
Anglesey’s ‘Classics’
The classic sea kayaking locations and journeys around Anglesey include:
Ynys Lawd, The Stacks, and Seabird Colonies
This area features the iconic North and South Stack foghorn/lighthouse, surrounded by ancient Cambrian rocks. The associated seabird colonies are home to puffins, guillemots, and razorbills. Penrhyn Mawr and the North and South Stack tide races offer challenging and exhilarating conditions for sea kayakers.
Ynysoedd Moelrhoniaid (The Skerries)
These offshore islands are renowned for their dramatic tide races and thriving wildlife. Arctic Terns, puffins, and grey seals make their home here, creating a rich biodiversity hotspot. The Skerries’ unique location and tidal dynamics make it a must-visit for adventurous paddlers.
Carmel Head, Ynys Fydlyn, Maen y Bugail (West Mouse), and Harry Furlough’s
This stretch of coastline is marked by powerful tide races, rugged beauty, caves, and fascinating landmarks. Carmel Head and Ynys Fydlyn offer stunning vistas towards Ynys Cybi and the Skerries.
Wylfa Head, Cemaes Bay, Ynys Badrig (Middle Mouse), and Llanlleiana
The North Coast headlands and islands are known for committing tide races and abundant wildlife. Peregrine falcons, gannets, porpoises, and Risso’s dolphins are frequently spotted here.
Porth Wen Brickworks, Bull Bay, Ynys Amlwch (East Mouse), and Amlwch
This area is steeped in industrial heritage, with mineral-rich rocks and the ruins of the Porth Wen Brickworks. In addition to its historical significance, kayakers can enjoy the usual North Coast wildlife, including seabirds and porpoises.
Porth Eilian, Point Lynas, and Ynys Dulas
Point Lynas is a significant headland known for its powerful tide race, often frequented by cetaceans and diving birds. Ynys Dulas, an offshore island, is a peaceful retreat with friendly seals and rich marine life.
Moelfre, Benllech, and Traeth Coch (Red Wharf Bay)
This east-facing sheltered coastline is ideal for more relaxed paddling. Offshore, numerous parked ships create a unique seascape, while the calm waters are perfect for exploring the area’s natural beauty.
Llanddona Beach and Ynys Seiriol (Puffin Island)
This stretch of coastline features dramatic limestone cliffs, an abandoned monastery, and the stunning Ynys Seiriol. Puffin Island is a haven for seals and seabirds and offers a serene and picturesque paddling experience.
Menai Straits
The Menai Straits are rich in history, biodiversity, and paddling opportunities. Sheltered waters contrast with powerful tidal movements, providing a mix of calm exploration and technical challenges for all skill levels.
South West Anglesey: Llanddwyn to Rhosneigr
This area features the paradise beach of Llanddwyn, with its iconic island lighthouse and sand dunes. The surf beaches of Rhosneigr are a favourite for both relaxation and adrenaline-fuelled paddling adventures.
Cymyran Bay, Rhoscolyn, and Ynysoedd Gwylanod (Rhoscolyn Beacon)
Known for its picturesque beauty, this stretch is perfect for rockhopping, surf, and tiderace challenges. The Rhoscolyn Beacon and surrounding waters offer exciting exploration and skill development opportunities. More seals and seabirds colonise these islands.
Porthdafarch, Trearddur Bay, and Bwa Gwyn (White Arch)
This rugged coastline is filled with reefs, rocky shores, and gullies. It is also a testing area in wind and swell. Porthdafarch and Trearddur Bay are popular starting points for exploring this dramatic and dynamic environment.
The Birth of Anglesey’s Sea Kayaking Community
In 1972, the Valley Anas Acuta became the first commercially available Inuit-inspired sea kayak design. This innovation sparked the growth of a niche UK sea kayaking community, with Anglesey at its heart. By 1977, Nigel Dennis from Holyhead, Anglesey, had joined this community. In 1980, he and Paul Caffyn became the first to circumnavigate Britain by sea kayak. Nigel’s adventurous spirit led him on numerous expeditions to places like Easter Island, Cape Horn, and South Georgia. Through his sea kayaking businesses, he has also sponsored many other expeditions.
The Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium and Sea Kayak Production Industry
In 1983, Nigel helped establish the first Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium, initially known as the ‘Valley Nordkapp Owners Meet.’ This annual event, now over 40 years old, has cemented Anglesey’s reputation as a premier destination for sea kayaking enthusiasts from around the world.
By 1993, Nigel collaborated with Mike Webb and Aled Williams to design and build the Romany Sea Kayak, launching a thriving sea kayak production industry on Anglesey. Mike and Aled later developed the Alaw, and today, both brands – Sea Kayaking UK and Rockpool Sea Kayaks – continue to thrive in Holyhead. The Romany was initially created to supply Nigel’s sea kayaking school, the Anglesey Sea and Surf Centre (ASSC).
The Evolution and Impact of the Anglesey Sea and Surf Centre
Nigel’s ASSC sea kayaking school eventually expanded onto the site now known as Anglesey Outdoors, near Porth Dafarch. The original timber building of the centre was initially built as a home for Nigel’s family, and to this day, you can still find the height growth marks of the Dennis daughters etched on a door in Ty Pen. The centre quickly became a vibrant hub where many top coaches honed their skills. Some stayed in Wales, while others went on to establish sea kayaking businesses and communities worldwide.
The Foot-and-Mouth Crisis of 2001
In 2001, the adventure industry faced a devastating blow with the outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease. From March to September, access to rural and surrounding lands was heavily restricted, bringing tourism to a standstill. Over six million cows and sheep were culled, with massive incineration pyres lighting up rural night skies. The financial toll on the UK was estimated at £8 billion, and for Nigel, the cost was deeply personal – the loss of the Anglesey Sea and Surf Centre (ASSC) and his family home.
Within a few years, Nigel rebounded by establishing a new coaching base at Newry Beach, Holyhead. There, he continued to develop coaches and welcome new members into the sea kayaking community, including me, in 2007.
A New Chapter: Anglesey Outdoors
Thankfully, the sea kayaking community found a silver lining in the loss of the ASSC. Penny Hurndall and Roger Lacey stepped in to purchase the site, rebranding it as Anglesey Outdoors. The site was transformed into a mixed accommodation centre, offering options ranging from camping and hostel stays to glamping pods, yurts, apartments, and private rooms. They also preserved the much-loved Paddlers Return Bistro Bar, ensuring it remained a welcoming space for the sea kayaking community.
This Is The Sea:
The First Sea Kayaking Film Series
From 2004 to 2014, Justine Curgenven further popularised sea kayaking on Anglesey through her groundbreaking film series, This Is The Sea. Across five films, she showcased renowned sea kayakers embarking on extraordinary adventures. Based in North Wales during this time, Justine often highlighted Anglesey’s sea kayaking scene, talented coaches, and vibrant community. Her work created a surge of interest in the sport, the island, and its culture. I still vividly remember the awe of meeting the paddlers featured in her films – it was truly inspiring.
Anglesey: Today and Into the Future – Maintaining the Hub
Today, Anglesey remains a thriving international hub for sea kayaking. The sea kayak manufacturing industry continues to flourish, Anglesey Outdoors serves as the social heartbeat of our community, and filmmakers like James Stevenson and Simon Osborn from Online Sea Kayaking now bring their magic to Anglesey’s stunning kayaking locations.
Since Justine’s spotlight on Anglesey’s coaching talent, many prominent tide race coaches have moved on, scaled back, or retired. Influential centres such as Nigel Dennis’s ASSC, the Newry Beach Centre, Plas Y Brenin, Plas Menai, and independent providers – including my main mentor, Nick Cunliffe – have been instrumental in shaping the coaches of the past two decades. However, opportunities for coach development have become less common.
At Sea Kayaking Wales, our mission is to grow and support the UK and international sea kayaking communities from our home on Anglesey. A key part of this vision is mentoring the next generation of sea kayak coaches to ensure Anglesey remains a leading training hub. Through collaboration with stakeholders across the Anglesey community, we strive to create new opportunities for coach development. If you or someone you know is passionate about pursuing a career in sea kayak coaching and contributing to our vibrant community in North Wales, we’d love to hear from you.
