Words:
Guy Baker

Photos:
Guy Baker &
Esther Daniel

Guy Baker

The long way to New Ireland: Sea kayaking PNG

To boldly go where few have gone before – and live to talk about it. That was the simple plan.

It’s not quite the Starship Enterprise, but sea kayaking is one of the best ways to explore the far edges of our planet. I started in white water, having paddled many of the world’s great rivers, so saltwater was inevitable. In 2010, that curiosity led me across Bass Strait – 260 kilometres of unpredictable water made famous by the Sydney to Hobart yacht race and its wild weather. January seemed as good a time as any. We made it across safely, and from then on, I was always searching for the next challenge on the ocean and on rivers. Preferably one that did not involve large ocean crossings, which, while high on the danger level, was not the most interesting for me. Pepper the sea with islands – much better.

Then I heard about New Ireland, off the north coast of Papua New Guinea, and I was hooked. The islands were full of spice, and the people matched their vibrancy.

People have lived there for 30,000 to 40,000 years, with ancient traditions and a complex colonial history: German rule from 1885 to 1914. Then came the Australian administration, the Japanese occupation during WWII, and subsequent Australian rule again until independence in 1975. PNG was about to celebrate 50 years of independence with its biggest tribal gathering since 1975. I knew I had to be there.

Most visitors flew into Port Moresby for the celebrations. We did the opposite. We headed into the Highlands – Mount Hagen and Lae. On 16 September, Independence Day, we stood among thousands of Highlanders dressed in ceremonial splendour: tall, feathered headdresses; necklaces of shell and horn; grass-and-bead skirts; and bodies painted with bold, intricate designs. We were five white faces in a sea of colour, culture, and history. New Britain is either very exciting or a nightmare, depending on your point of view and confidence that ‘it will all be OK.’

Phallocrypts
Every man wore a koteka – traditional penis sheaths that signal tribal identity. I even learned a new word: phallocrypts. These decorative ceremonial sheaths are made from gourds or woven fibres and are adorned with feathers, beads, and shells. That’s a Scrabble win if I’ve ever seen one. https://westpapuavoice.ac/social-culture/koteka-a-timeless-symbol-of-papuas-highland-identity-masculinity-and-cultural-wisdom/

Yes, there were weapons. And yes, tribal violence still happens. In 2023, more than 150 people were killed in fighting in the Highlands. With limited law enforcement and rough terrain separating many tribes, we were understandably cautious. But instead, we found huge smiles, warmth, and generosity. It went beyond anything we expected. Relieved and very much alive, we set out for the coast and our real goal: kayaking the length of the New Ireland archipelago.

After some online searching, I had found a few ‘abandoned’ sea kayaks left by another expedition. We made a deal. When we arrived, everyone seemed concerned. Apparently, the last kayak group was eaten, which is why the kayaks were abandoned! PNG people have a great sense of humour, we hoped.

PNG is a land unto itself, so who knows what’s happened or could happen – it’s an ongoing attraction and what puts a lot of people off ever setting foot in the place, together with its remoteness, no backpacker industry at all, and generally a difficult and expensive place to get around. We were strongly advised to hire a guide who could kayak. Not an easy task, but eventually we found Winston, who, for a reasonable cost, joined us and cheerfully said, “I know the way. You have nothing to worry about.”

Of course, my anxious mind pictured this as a plot to make three kayakers vanish in the most remote part of PNG. I packed an EPIRB, knowing that if rescue ever came, it would probably be too late. Not exactly comforting. Winston proved priceless, taking us to villages seldom, if ever, visited by non-PNG people, and everyone seemed to know him or be related to him. We never felt threatened until that one night. More to come below.

Non-stop 35-degree days
We flew to Kavieng, loaded the kayaks, and paddled west, riding the prevailing winds. The sun rose behind us as we started early to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. Just south of the equator, New Ireland delivered non-stop 35-degree days. The sea was almost as warm. There was no escape. Staying hydrated became the real challenge.

For a week, we hopped from island to island through places outsiders rarely visit, surprised by how many people lived in this remote part of the world. Coconuts were everywhere – copra is still the fourth-largest cash crop in PNG. Life felt timeless, but mobile phones worked, and everyone knew who we were. Even here, the world feels small.

On more than one occasion, the local created a celebration just for us, inviting people from nearby islands. Singing, drumming, and dancing lasted all night. Most people were chewing buai, a mixture of betel nut, lime, and shell. It’s a strong stimulant and relaxant that’s common across PNG, now the largest per capita consumer. These guys seemed more powered up than just Beetlejuice, but whatever fuelled them, the energy at night was powerful.

Having failed to buy or release a large Sea turtle, those gathered on one particular island were especially ‘high’ on the turtle’s rich meat, so we retired to bed early.

At 02:00, four silhouettes appeared over Esther’s tent.“This,” I thought, “might be how it ends.”

when I am even older, and stories and reality become increasingly blurred.

Christianity and tribal traditions
PNG is off the beaten path; it’s not easy, but ‘FIXERS’ are connected through several ‘operators’ to the outside world. With an economy based on mining and copra, there is a lot of money sloshing around at the top while the majority of the people live a life blended with Christianity and tribal traditions. I have visited three times now, and it never ceases to amaze me how different it is from so much of our commoditised tourism.

You are pretty much guaranteed a more than interesting experience if you make the effort to get there. Plan, but leave yourself some margin for time and money, as nothing goes entirely to plan. A white water kayak descent of the Sepik River, in our case, turned into a navigation of the New Ireland archipelago, and there are plenty more unexplored island chains for the adventurous paddler.