By Richard Janes & Geth Roberts (Sea Kayaking Wales)
We find ourselves drifting west,
Through a door that has framed our minds.
To places free to explore,
So rare and often suppressed.
We find ourselves drifting west,
Where the wind will slowly caress
The tortures of life’s untruths,
And return hope to a pilgrims breast.
A Scottish pilgrimage
A trip report of a fun time guiding with Sea Kayaking Wales on the west coast of Scotland.
The dark days of ‘lockdown’ affected us all. Even if we escaped illness, the worries of furlough, unemployment, uncertainty and lack of contact with friends and other people took their toll on many of us. So having a date in the diary for an adventure felt like a ray of sunshine on a distant horizon: an escape and something to look forward to.
Driving north felt odd. Restrictions had deprived us of such joys as traffic jams and motorway services for a while. But here we were, an eclectic group of paddlers from different areas of the UK meeting together to paddle on the west coast of Scotland amongst the tides and currents of the ‘Slate Isles’ and associated islands of the Firth of Lorne. A group of folk carrying different life stories but with a shared love of the sea and wild places. All with a determination for a fun time. Sometimes lubricated by a dram, stories came out, and the ancient rocks rattled with laughter throughout the trip. A modern-day and Scottish version of Chaucer’s ‘Canterbury Tales’?
We had all been glued to the various weather ‘apps’ but the final words of the lovely lady from the BBC; “Low pressure will dominate with unsettled weather over the West of Scotland.” Great! Nevertheless, we needed this trip, and with the adage, ‘You need to put in the time to get the times’, we met at Craobh Haven for the start of our journey.
Our Pilgrims target was the Garvellachs (Scottish Gaelic: Garbh Eileaich), or very aptly named ‘Isles of the Sea’ and especially Eileach an Naoimh is known as Holy Isle. It felt like the weather gods were smiling as areas not far away were being buffeted by strong winds. We had a weather window forecast for at least three days. With some scepticism over the forecast, we planned daily to enjoy the best of the area.
I have purposely left out precise locations of our campsites. However, we made a conscious effort to leave the beaches with less litter than when we arrived. Our visit was for small tides around neaps. Tide times were calculated with advice and thanks to Dr Douglas Wilcox.
Day 1
Craobh Haven to Scarba
(High water Oban 0905 BST)
After the usual ‘will all this kit fit in the boat’ faffing around, we left Craobh Haven in glorious weather. Rounding Shuna point, we could see Scarba and distant Jura with a hint of the beguiling Corryvreckan in between the two. A leisurely lunch on the South of Luing allowed us to ‘eyeball’ Lunga, Scarba and Jura. We felt like kids in a sweetie shop where choice is determined by weather, tide and time.
With the last of the ebb, we paddled across the Sound of Luing to find a place for the night on Scarba. What a beautiful place! As the afternoon flood girded its loins, we could see white water building on the Jura (south) side of the gulf and long tails of white to the south east, likely attached to the Dorus Mor of Loch Craignish. A beach fire warmed the soul and was designed to convect any midges to the heavens. Fortunately, there were few midges, but we did meet an early vanguard of ticks.
The ticks have a penchant for warm bodies.
Day 2
Gulf of Corryvreckan to Eilean Dubh Mor
(High water Oban 0941 BST)
Another forecast of light winds and little cloud motivated our planning. The Corryvreckan and Grey Dogs were due to start flooding to the west in the afternoon. We had options, but like kiddies in the sweetie shop, we were greedy and wanted a taste of both! And so a ‘cunning plan’ was formed to eddy hop against the east going ebb tide, taking a breather in the bay opposite the ‘whirlpool’ as marked on the map and waiting for the flow to reduce before completing the transit of the gulf.
All was very easy for the first 3km or so. We could see a lot of white water around Eilean Mor and Eilean Beag in the distance and to the south west. We were now opposite and close to our’ breather bay’. From here on, eddies and places to hide from the flow started to diminish. Sections between eddies taking a lot of grunt and incoming swell threatened to push us on the rocks. But our cunning plan allowed us to drop back into the breather bay for an early lunch and opportunity to watch the fast and swirling water as it poured through the gulf. Half an hour or so, and the flow had visibly dropped.
We left our beautiful lunch spot to complete our transit of the Corryvreckan and enjoy the west and northern shores of Scarba in beautiful sunshine. Our group now separated. Half went to savour the flood in the Grey Dogs as the rest of us had a delightful rest and second lunch on Guirasdeal. We all joined up on Eilean Dubh Mor, which we are reliably informed does not translate to ‘tick city’. Ticks hereabouts seem to be quite athletic. Our beach clean up fire resulted in our friend burning a small hole in his shoe. A ‘doras-beag’ it seems for the tick he found 33.5 inches higher?
We find ourselves drifting west,
Away from the accepted banal
To glimpse Her raw impartial,
But feel the most honoured Guest.
Day 3
Eilean Dubh More to Garvellachs
(High water Oban 1029 BST)
A beautiful day and forecast! We had plans, but to quote Robert Burns, “The best-laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft a-gley” As did ours for the very best of reasons. A beautiful paddle North West to Dun Chonnuill with its ruined castle and down the exposed and incredibly beautiful, rugged side of the Garvellachs to thread back to softer Eastside at Sgeir Leth a Chuain. A short and easy paddle in brilliant sunshine led to Eileach an Naoimh. And then came the problem for our planning. The calm atmosphere, views, and absolute beauty of the place insisted we stay.
St. Brendan the Navigator founded a monastery here. Columba is believed to have visited the island, and Columba’s mother, Eithne, is buried here. The monastic ruins are the oldest ecclesiastical buildings in Scotland and possibly Britain. A suitable place for these weary and modern-day ‘Pilgrims’ to spend the night! The tick score was low, and the few seen may have been passengers from tick city.
Day 4
(High water Oban 1139BST)
Garvellachs to Cullipool. And return to Craobh Haven.
Again the weather held fine. An early start and paddle around Eileach an Naoimh and back to the Eastside before heading northeast to Belnahua with the last of the flood tide. Leaving the Garvellachs in glorious sunshine, the clouds and atmosphere held hints that things might change. A quick snack on the slate isle of Belnahua before we were drawn to the delights of the Atlantic centre of Cullipool on Luing.
A beautiful community centre with fascinating displays of local history, geology and wildlife. And rather incredible food, so much better than the dried variety several of us had been munching through. Tide and time wait for no man or woman, and soon the ebb ‘escalator’ took us south. Passing Fladda lighthouse, we sped down the Sound of Luing with the flow. A stunning afternoon with huge, somewhat threatening clouds.
Our intention to camp on the Southern end of Luing was changed when we saw the latest forecast. The threatened change to the weather was due the next morning. Again our plans changed to a walk before paddling back to Craobh Haven. But not before a wildlife treat and example of Nature ‘in the raw ‘… We watched a pair of Sea Eagles attacking Geese with goslings in tow. At each fly past, the geese reared up in defence and finally saw off the attack. Spectacular flying by massive birds with a wingspan in excess of two metres and a desperate and successful defence by the geese.
We found ourselves drifting west,
For our Souls to be truly refreshed
In a font by Nature blessed,
A sanctuary where the sun goes to rest.
We had now gone full circle, and with the impending weather change, it was time to retrace our paddle strokes and return to Craobh Haven, where we met the tragedy of our story. The wonderful ‘Lord of The Isles’ pub was still closed under lockdown restrictions. But a thirst is a thirst, and we were thirsty! Fortunately and with ten minutes until closing, we could buy cold beer from their shop… Slainte Mhath!!
