By Judith Hackinger
Photos unless stated:
Manuel Arnu
Between Unken (Austria) and Schneizlreuth (Germany), the Saalach is a mostly natural, open and accessible river – for now! However, plans for a private hydropower project may soon withdraw most of its water and create a section of seven kilometres that’s will be almost dry. What’s threatened is a scenic run offering easy and rewarding whitewater on a natural riverbed – ideal for families, beginners and connoisseurs.
Season’s end on the Saalach River
We skip the first kilometres of the Saalach section from Unken (Salzburg/Austria) to Fronau (Bavaria/Germany). It’s already mid afternoon in October and we are on a mission – even if this means that we will miss out on the ‘core section’, the ‘Moeschl Criterion’ (class II), just some 500 metres below the standard put-in. Instead we start at the Koestler Bridge, which is just downstream from where a currently planned diversion dam may soon take most of the Saalach’s water. This is why we are here and why three keen and motivated youngsters share my eddy today. While we wait for our shuttle drivers to return, their dad starts taking photos – this is what it is all about: to wake the lower Saalach section from its enchanted sleep.
While I am happy and grateful about the warm and sunny autumn day, the kids don’t waste any time on the landscape – they rather focus on paddling. A small wave catches their attention – surf is up! The trio speedily paddle up the eddy and fly over to the other shore. For the moment one thing is clear: these kids are no beginners! Once aware of their skills, I start to worry: May these highly motivated youngsters get bored on the following eight kilometres of white water class I to II?
The rest of the team slides from a sandy beach into the water. In summer this sandy riverbank is a popular place to take a swim in the river. Also my husband and I need to stop here frequently when we take our three-year old daughter down the Saalach in our canoe. Today she stays home due to a cold. In private, I am a little glad because this gives me the opportunity to paddle this section in a kayak, something I haven’t done in a while.
Let’s get started!
Our photographer takes position on the bridge, which flags the last official take-out in Austria. Just a few metres downstream, the discharging Steinbach River marks the international boundary to Germany. From this point the Saalach flows between the two countries for three kilometres or so. Germany left, Austria right. Historically this may be one reason, why the lower Saalach section has been out of any touristic interest and promotion – so far. Currently there are efforts to include the take outs in Bavaria in the touristic concept for canoeing in the Salzburger Saalach Valley. The region around Unken and Lofer is a well-known hotspot for paddlers in central Europe.
Below the bridge a little rapid on the left takes our attention. Depending on water levels, some small or larger waves cause tension, even though the central line does not hide any surprises. Today a flow of around 24-cubic metres per second causes a nice and sporty feeling – and big eyes for the paddling sprout. The kids go front, the grown ups keep to the back.
After the rapid the Saalach calms down – at least for the adults. The kids still play down the river. Many small waves offer excellent conditions for ultralight mini-paddlers. Time and again some boulders and cliffs allow for an occasional rock splat. Did I really think these kids could get bored?
The Saalach widens into a straight section. At low water levels the river gets slow and shallow until the Auschaubach River flows into the Saalach. In summer this river mouth is a perfect and shady place to take a break. In mid-October there is no need for shade and anyway, we need to hurry to catch the most scenic part of the section in sunshine!
The Saalach speeds up in a small rapid. Meanwhile the youngest has taken the lead. Guiding us down the river, the following rapid-section seems right on cue. Here in Schneizlreuth, the Saalach is a pristine and natural river. Huge boulders, old overhanging trees and some quaint eddies dominate the scene, which is also enjoyed by a herd of cattle. On sunny days the cows frequently take a sip – or a dip – in the river – it is better to use the opposing shore to land.
Today the cattle stick to the dry shore enjoying the warm autumn sun. The preceding nights have given the valley a boost in colours and the old beeches shine bright and yellow reflecting their leaves in the clear and blue water of the river. Picture-perfect – or even better!
A small technical rapid turns out a perfect playground for the kids. Some rocks form a natural slalom course, which is now extensively used for some eddy training. Also the little surf wave at the bottom seems to be made for little kayakers – all happy faces!
October shows its teeth
Once the sun is gone October shows its teeth severely. Time to move on! After an old iron bridge the river widens again dividing its water between gravel banks. At this low water level the Saalach is still a good run, however, we need to look out to find the right branch to paddle.
Once more the Saalach splits in two halves offering perfect conditions for a family duel. The kids speed up – and take the left arm. Damn! Knowing the river we also know that we are on lost position. The right branch takes a long and slow turn in one of the characteristic washed out eddies. Still we give our best – only to see our five challengers race by easily. Now guess who paid for the pizza?
The massive cliffs of the Reiter Alpe towering over the river offer a stunning view – but also add some depression to our tour. Here, some seven kilometres down stream from our start, the Saalach would regain its water from the hydro power station. What’s in-between would be lost for paddling sports or only be runnable at very high water levels on the upper sections.
While we reach the take out in Fronau, just a few hundred metres further down, we all agree that this would be a painful loss. The loss of a beginners, family and connoisseur section and the loss of a natural river, embedded between the mountains of the Salzburger Saalachtal and the Biosphere Region Berchtesgadener Land in Bavaria.
Hydropower on the Saalach
In November 2018 a private hydropower project has been submitted to the authorities in Austria and Germany. The plans include a seven-kilometre water diversion and a 600 metre water reservoir. This would set most of the section described almost dry and affect the lower third of a 27-kilometre long stretch of the Saalach River, which is currently in natural or near-natural condition. This part of the Saalach is regarded to be in ‘very high need of protection’ by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). It is also the basis for whitewater kayaking in the area.
The trans boundary grassroots initiative ‘Water Is Life – Rescue The Saalach’ and the ‘Saalach Allianz’ work hand in hand to bring paddlers, fishermen, rafting stations, tourism businesses, nature conservancies and private citizens from Austria and Germany, together to fight against the power station. More Information: thesaalachproject.org and www.saalach-allianz.info
Support us!
The Saalach Allianz is supported by the Free Rivers Fund. If you would like to join in and take action against damming projects all around the world, the FRF is a good address for your donation. More information: www.freerivers.org.
Information
Region
The Austrian Saalach River is situated close to Salzburg and well known for one of the most versatile paddling regions in the Northern Alps. The area around the villages Unken, Lofer and St. Martin offers whitewater of all difficulties with runnable water levels all year round. Expert kayakers, as well as beginners come to the Saalach Valley, because they will find something to paddle at any time. The most popular run is the ‘Standardstrecke’ from Au to Unken (five kilometres whitewater class II (III)). The famous ‘Teufelsschlucht’ (three kilometres whitewater class IV-V (V+)) attracts experts all year round.
Unken to Fronau, 10 kilometres (class I-II)
An open and friendly river. Difficulties range between I-II. The whitewater is very appreciated by families and beginners due to a lot of big eddies, small rapids and almost untouched river banks.
Put-in: Festplatz Unken (take-out of section Au to Unken). Alternative put-in at Köstler Bridge three kilometres downstream. Access via BP-Station at national border. Parking lot on the river right.
Take-out: below the footbridge in Fronau. Park right by the road leading to Fronau.
Gauge: fun starts at about 20m³/s on gauge Unterjettenberg/Saalach at www.hnd.bayern.de.
Tip: the Lofer-Rodeo is an annual paddling-event in the area including a boatercross on the slalom course in Lofer (whitewater class III (IV)) and the legendary paddler’s party.
Next event: September 13-14th 2019.
Eat and drink
Schneizlreuth
Gasthaus Schneizlreuth/Postwirt
Traditional Bavarian restaurant and beer garden with rustic flair. Regional dishes with meat from their own cattle, hunting grounds and butchery. Open Friday to Sunday and on public holidays.
Phone: +49 (0)8651 4165
www.gasthaus-schneizlreuth.de
Haiderhof
Beer garden and B&B at a slightly remote but fantastic location near Aschaubach River. Access via the iron bridge in Schneizlreuth. Follow the road upstream for about three kilometres from turnoff at B31. Open from May 1st to September 30th.
Phone: +49 (0)8651 767570
www.haiderhof.net
Unken
Wirtshaus & Pizzeria Dorfcafe
The best pizza (and more) in Unken! Huge playground and outdoor area – ideal for families! Kitchen open from 11.30am-2pm and 4pm-8pm, Saturday 9pm. Closed on Monday. Pizza to go.
Phone: +43 (0)6589 7156
www.dorfcafe-unken.at
Landhotel Schütterbad
Just 300 metres from the put-in in Unken. Homely outdoor area, varied food and delicious homemade cakes and strudel. Junior manager Chris paddles himself.
Phone: +43 (0)6589 4296
www.schuetterbad.at
Where to stay
Camping Steinpass
Perfect basecamp in Unken, about 150 metres from the river. Own put-in and take-out for the lower Saalach sections, paddler’s camp! Open June 1st to September 15th. Earlier/longer at good conditions.
Phone: +43 (0)664 442 8269
www.camping-steinpass-unken.at
Camping Grubhof
Comfort camping in St. Martin/Lofer. Tent pitches by the river, large group room, cabins and more. Open: End of April to All Saints (November 1st).
Phone: +43 (0)6588 82370
www.grubhof.com
B&Bs and holiday flats
Unken offers the lowest price level for B&Bs and holiday flats throughout Austria. Some offers located directly by the river. By spring 2019, paddler-friendly hosts will be marked specially.
Check out: www.unken.co
