By Mike Sunderland
Cumbria Canoeists Coaching/Leader Rep and Chair

The River Spey… High levels of water and hospitality

Following on from Sarah Webster’s article on the River Spey, I thought it would be appropriate to share with readers the fantastic experiences we had from camp sites’ staff, shuttle owner, riparian landowners and estate staff on a great open boat trip on the River Spey, in October 2020.

The trip was a formal ‘Cumbria canoeists’ guided event, initially with 12 paddlers. Due to Covid-19 issues and new commitments for some participants, we decided to run with a group of seven paddlers.

The shuttle is often an issue on the Spey, but I was introduced to the relatively new shuttle transport business – Highland Yaks – run by a Kiwi called Alexander Kelty, better known in Speyside as Kelty!

The plan was to camp at the Spey Bay Golf course, now set up with the full facility of a caravan and camping park, right on the ocean’s edge and five minutes walk from the River Spey. Also, at no extra cost, we were able to leave our vehicles in the spacious and secure car park, planning to return four days later – what a slick service!

At 0730 – ahead of time – a minibus arrived in the campground, with a spacious trailer for our open boats and kit for the four-day trip we had planned. Some of the early birds helped load the canoes, while Kelty greeted the team and provided quality straps for trailer loading and directing the trailer loading. All I had to do was show up for 0800, throw my kit in the back and climb in the minibus – the front seat saved

Face masked, hand sanitised and windows open, we headed to Aviemore and the put-in – what marvellous service. On the water and travelling downstream for 10.30, after a relaxed and smooth journey from Spey Bay – that’s service for you and way ahead of previous home-grown shuttles!

We chose to run the river in the autumn, hoping for the right water level and a peaceful journey. Paddling in the closed fishing season as a mark of respect for the tolerant fishing fraternity, we headed downstream in quiet solitude.

The trip went well, as it rained and rained and rained and each day, for some unknown reason, as our confidences increased, so did the water! Just perfect for this experienced and intrepid Cumbrian group of hardy open boaters.

Fishing cabin

After two outstanding wild camps, “Taking nothing and leaving nothing bar muddy footprints,” we started to look for a suitable bankside site to stop and dry ourselves, and our sodden tents out before nightfall and the rain started again. By luck, as we rounded a corner at Rock Pool on the Ballindalloch Castle beat, the sun came out, so we immediately pulled up by a fishing cabin with a large veranda. A perfect spot for our well practised ‘Chinese laundry’ techniques.

On reflection, dressing up a veranda of a private cabin like a Christmas tree may not have been the best thing to do or the best way to win round the local riparian landowner.

However, after a visit from the Factor of Ballindalloch Estate, an explanation about drying out and an apology for dressing up the cabin like a Christmas tree, we were allowed to stay encamped on the river bank. With a request to clean up after ourselves and a promise to leave the site as we found it – you could not have asked for better.

The Factor was concerned that his employer, who lived in the big castle through the woods, would need to be informed of the uninvited travellers camping on his land. We parted company amicably, with some disbelief of our actions as uninvited trespassers!

Riparian landowner

An hour later, another 4×4 arrived at the cabin! Out jumped the driver, who introduced himself as Guy McPherson-Grant, the riparian landowner and distillery owner. He had come to, “Meet us, not beat us,” and professed to be interested in meeting the first group in living memory to have been brazen enough to camp in front of the cabin and use its veranda to dry out! Explaining, “No apology required,” he made it clear how the cabin is central to visiting fishermen’s enjoyment and thus crucial to the local visitor economy. Our mouths opened (briefly) in disbelief.

We were all ‘gob smacked’ and humbled at Guy’s welcoming approach, attitude and warm hospitality, asking us to take shelter under the veranda as the weather was about to break again, with heavy rain predicted for the night!

As the morning broke – wet and grey – we received two visits from a groundsman, who commiserated about the volume of rain during the night and emphasised how comfortable his evening was in front of the TV and log fire! He returned and insisted in taking our rubbish away and enjoyed the craic with us all.

Laws of access

My interest to research how this exemplary arrangement has been achieved on the River Spey has led me to extended conversations with David Craig and the retired (Godfather) SCA Access Team Lead on the Spey because although the laws of access and trespass are different in Scotland, it did not feel like this was the only reason for such a welcome.

In a nutshell, despite law differences, the Spey arrangements have been achieved by regular, personal engagement between the access team, Estates’ owners, Gillies and fishermen and women. The aim has been to work together and ‘share with care’ the River Spey’s fantastic resource for all.

However, the journey has not been swift or easy and not without difficulties or hard work from both sides. Through ongoing discussion, compromise, respectful understanding of the needs of paddlers and fishing, honest liaison, ‘paddling days’ for the Gillies and ‘fishing days’ for the paddling guides, we have ended up with a fantastic arrangement.

Reasonable, Respect and Relationships

Building trust and relationships with the key players in this complicated situation reminds me of the ‘The three R’s’ – Reasonable, Respect and Relationships.

I have spoken via e-mail to both Guy Mcpherson-Grant and British Canoeing ‘Places to Paddle’ department. The latter is keen to interview David Craig, the legendary Spey guide and SCA (Scottish Canoe Association) Access Officer, some Gillies and estate managers/owners to produce a podcast. Which is hoped to be share with English and Welsh fishing estates, riparian landowners and paddling groups throughout the UK.

To summarise, without the levels of understanding, respect and relationship building from the main stakeholders, the hospitality and service we received on Speyside for the October Cumbria Canoeists, open canoe autumn trip 2020 would have been quite different. A ‘wetter than wet’, cold, miserable and challenging trip, I sense.

Instead, we experienced a heartening and uplifting trip, and that’s without any details or tales of the excellent paddling and adventures on some challenging white water. It’s all about the people.

Speyside – Cumbria “heralds, respects and THANKS YOU” for your outstanding hospitality.