By Ric Moat
Photos: Tim Pitcher, Tomasz Furmanek and Neil Irwin
It’s 1943 and Norway is occupied by Nazi Germany. The entire Norwegian coast has been rapidly fortified with gun batteries and troops in order to protect infrastructure vital to maintaining the Nazi’s pace in the war as well as guarding the German Navy nestled in deep fjords.
aims of the expedition:
One of the aims is to raise awareness and funds for The Royal Marines Charity, specifically supporting the development of a mental health unit that will aid the recovery of serving and veteran Royal Marines Commandos. To find out more or to donate please visit www.norway75.com or our Instagram page @norway75.
Norway 75
The dark night of September 11th, a French submarine is entering Bjærangsfjorden, a heavily protected 10km long fjord. Nazi searchlights reflect off the water’s calm surface. In the shadows, 12 Commandos, a mix of British and Norwegian, emerge from the submarine and paddle the final kilometre to the back of the fjord. Despite the submarine being spotted, the commandos covertly make it ashore. With their small boats hidden they embark upon a daring mission that takes them over the mountain pass behind the fjord, dropping them directly onto the hydroelectric Glomfjord power plant.
These men successfully destroy the power plant thus ceasing the production of aluminium so crucial to the Luftwaffe. Despite all their guile, eight of these men were killed and only four were able to escape back to UK.
Our mission
It’s the middle of June 2018. The waters of Bjærangsfjorden are calm and, just like our predecessors we are searching for the shadows. However, we are trying to avoid the rarely seen Norwegian sun rather than enemy spotlights as we make our way, in three tandem kayaks to the exact landing spot that the Commando team used in ‘42. We continue on foot, up over the mountain and reach the power plant where we enjoy a cinnamon bun before packing kit away and continuing on our own mission.
Our team comprises of eight British Royal Marines Commandos. Our self-initiated plan is to travel the length of Norway, north to south in order to revisit, re-tell and commemorate commando raids from WWII. The Glomfjord power plant, or Operation MARTIN, is one of six sites that we will visit. Attempting to better understand the endurance challenges of WWII commando operations, we have decided to cycle between these locations, a total distance of 3,500km. As amphibious specialists we have also chosen to take to kayaks at each raid location and spend a number of days in the boats, paddling the ambitious insertion and escape routes taken by commandos during each operation.
The equipment
Commando operations were characterized by their small, diverse and self-sufficient teams. Therefore, the eight of us travel by bicycle, taking it in turns to run support from two Land Rovers. Space is a premium so we have chosen Neris tandem folding kayaks. Three boats pack up neatly along with safety kit in the back of our trailer. Our route starts in the high Arctic of northern Norway where water temperatures are perennially low (6-deg C), so drysuits are squeezed in.
The team have completed a week-long training period on the Isle of Wight prior to this challenge so, despite being relatively inexperienced sea paddlers, we are all zeroed in to the expectations of paddling in Arctic waters. However, when we arrive at Kåfjord, our first put-in, the sun is beating down on us and any apprehension is quickly taken in the gentle breeze.
Folding or collapsible kayaks have been a preserve of commando operations since WWII. They offer covert infiltration into tight spots, can be operated in silence and easily hidden and re-constructed for a swift getaway. On the sunny beach at Kåfjord we are all trying to work out the exact meaning of ‘swift’. The aluminium kayak frames now appear as rubik’s cubes and the rubber skins like a prophylactic to the uninitiated. Excitement to get on the water only exacerbates our lack of skill at constructing these boats.
Finally put together, we stow kit in the cavernous bow and stern of the boats in preparation for an overnight wild camp. Ambiguous currents and tides of these demi-sea fjords (the shelter offered by numerous offshore islands and being surrounded by steep mountain sides makes one forget that you are, technically, in the Norwegian Sea) are negated by calm weather and we paddle at good speed to excellent views.
The operations
As we paddle south down Kåfjord we trace the route of Operation SOURCE, an audacious mission carried out by brave men in mini submarines, given the task of infiltrating the protected fjord that harboured the 42,000 ton battleship, Tirpitz, the jewel of the German Navy. Remnants of enemy gun batteries can be seen on headlands as we progress south. As if to underline the foreboding that these men must have felt, the weather starts to grumble with discontent at our presence.
We were all aware of the fickleness of Norwegian weather, now we were getting a practical demonstration. With the sea state and winds quickly rising we are glad of the broad build of our kayaks and our training around The Needles back on the Isle of Wight. Whilst desire and burning shoulders push us on, the grey-green water becomes increasingly lively with white tops. The seriously strong gusting headwinds means that our progress is painfully slow. Coupled with the fact that the next 10-km stretch is accompanied only by sheer granite cliffs plunging deep into the fjord, means that we have to make a decision to put ashore now.
Guttural feelings of shame overcome us as each boat negotiates its landing onto a small rocky beach and awaits the support team. Once ashore wry grins find each other as the characteristic commando trait of cheerfulness in adversity comes through. We are humbled. These conditions have changed quickly and we have had the luxury of calling a support team, having time to make sensible decisions under no pressure; what on earth must it have been like for the commandos 75 years ago?
The subsequent kayak phases go more smoothly despite variable weather conditions keeping us alert. We trace the epic escape route of Norwegian operative, Jan Baalsrud, which weaves through the serene and calm waters of the Lyngen Alps.
Lofoten Islands
Our excitement to visit the world famous Lofoten Islands is quickly dampened as we cycle west along the peninsula against 50-kph winds. Two things this region’s social media coverage often misses are:
- the persistent low cloud and…
- that Lofoten was the site of an early and aggressive commando raid that destroyed fish and oil reserves used by the Nazi’s. Paddling amongst the rocky outcrops and iconic red fishing buildings it is hard to believe that this narrow strip of beautiful coastline could ever be involved in such an event. Mild swells bounce us around in our boats and navigation amongst standing waves, submerged ironwork and rocks becomes a test of teamwork.
By the time we reach the fjords in the south we find that we have caught up with the good weather. Furthermore, we have become quite the professionals at constructing the kayaks, which affords us a little extra time for another coffee (at this point, six weeks of more-or-less non-stop cycling and kayaking, an extra coffee with obligatory Norwegian pastry is the only way any of us can start the day).
Paddling around the Vågsøy region, we reap the benefits of our recent paddling experience; paddle strokes are strong and efficient, bodies prepared for regimented breaks on the hour, each team member alert to weather systems rolling in, disturbances in the water from wildlife (sea eagles have become too common to care for), we are a slick operation. Our evolution is rewarded with a spectacular, secluded camping spot on a tiny island. With a small fire cooking our freshly caught haul, guys making small repairs to the boats in preparation for the following day there is an air of commando operation.
We discuss whether, 75 years ago, the commandos possessed the time and security to absorb the magnificence of this amazing landscape as we are doing now. As harsh as it is beautiful, the Norwegian landscape was one of the biggest advantages to commando operations. So long as one understood it, one could hide, escape and invade with ease. Just as it is a playground for adventure sports now, we like to think that those courageous few enjoyed ‘playing’ their dangerous games here 75 years ago.
