Words: Beata Plutka
Photos: Piotr &
Beata Plutka &
Hallgeir Wendelbo
Beata Plutka
Two-weeks above the Arctic Circle in the Lofoten Islands – SUP, Fjords, and a Norwegian Adventure
The Lofoten Islands are a picturesque archipelago located above the Arctic Circle in northern Norway. They are known for their stunning landscapes, dramatic mountains rising straight from the sea, crystal-clear waters, and charming fishing villages. The region is often associated with hiking, the northern lights, and sea kayaking.
Moskenesøya is one of the seven main islands, located in the southwestern part of the archipelago. However, the Lofoten Islands are also an exceptional destination for stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). Fjords, sheltered bays, mountain lakes, and the incredible closeness to wild nature create ideal conditions for paddleboard enthusiasts.
In summer, when daylight lasts around the clock, you can explore this raw Arctic beauty from an entirely new perspective – from the water.
But we’ve already been there in the summer. Please READ about our August adventure: A Lofoten SUP Adventure (https://paddlerezine.com/a-lofoten-sup-adventure/).
PREPARATIONS
Early May in the Lofoten Islands means experiencing all four seasons in just a few days. Unfortunately, summer was the least present among them. Bare feet – it was just a brief moment when I truly felt the summer vibe. Sudden weather changes – from full sun to fog to a storm within just a few hours – are nothing unusual here. When planning a trip to northern Norway, being well-prepared is essential.
For us, it all started with drysuits – they were the very first thing we thought of when the idea of paddleboarding in the Lofoten Islands came to mind. Unlike a wetsuit, a drysuit doesn’t let water in – thanks to sealed cuffs and waterproof material, it provides complete insulation from the icy water. A thermal base layer is worn underneath, helping to retain warmth even during extended periods in extreme conditions. It’s not just about comfort – it’s primarily about safety.
It’s also about convenience – a drysuit protects against wind and allows you to stay out on the water longer. This essential piece of gear isn’t a luxury in the cold waters of northern Norway. It protects your life, increases comfort, and lets you fully enjoy the Arctic experience.
In early spring (and early May definitely still counts), thermal base layers are a must. Following the example of Norwegian kayakers, we chose merino wool. It’s the perfect layer under a drysuit – it keeps you warm even when wet, breathes, wicks moisture, and doesn’t retain odours. It works exceptionally well in the cold, damp climate of the north.
And what about the extremities, which get cold the fastest? That depends on personal preferences and individual choices. We use different boots and gloves, and each of us has our own tricks.
When packing boards for trips, we always bring spare fins and paddles. So far, I’ve been paddling with the 3-piece Starboard Enduro – a paddle that combines precise craftsmanship with excellent performance both in waves and on flat water. What won me over was the 26 mm shaft – perfectly suited to my small hands. The blade shape helps achieve good efficiency even when the stroke doesn’t reach deep into the water. The wide lower section is great for bracing and helps maintain stability. The final touch that convinced me to buy it was also the design.
When I went out on the water to practice my technique, I borrowed my husband’s Lima model in size L. The blade has a slim shape, allowing it to be guided close to the board’s rail. This paddle provides an immediate catch in the water and exceptional stability, which helps refine paddling technique with precision. Its lightweight and well-balanced design allows you to focus on the smoothness of your stroke and the efficiency of each pull. Before our trip, I got to test the Starboard 2025 Lima paddle in size M. It’s easy to guess – the paddle stayed with me.
DREAMS
This time, I dreamed of paddling among snow-capped peaks and seeing hanging stockfish – cod dried solely by the Arctic air, low temperatures, and wind. Was an early May trip the perfect way to make that dream come true? See for yourselves…
Another dream was paddling on mountain lakes. Rapid weather changes have a significant impact on planning activities. Strong wind, rain, and low visibility can turn an easy trek into a risky expedition within an hour, and a calm lake into a place completely unsuitable for SUPing.
When combining mountains and water, you need to be flexible, monitor forecasts, and always have an emergency action plan ready.
On the first day after arriving on the islands, the weather practically begged us to head out to sea: sunshine, a light wind that gradually picked up, but forecasts showed a favourable direction. We made the most of these conditions.
After a sunny launch and 11 kilometres on the sea, something happened that I’ll never forget – orcas. Encountering marine mammals had been a dream of mine since the very beginning of our paddleboarding adventure. And suddenly – they appeared right next to us. Majestic, incredibly close. We were on our boards, and they surfaced just a few meters away. My heart was racing – with excitement, not fear. In that moment, we truly felt part of nature. We ended the day in the rain, soaked through, but with smiles that wouldn’t fade. That’s the Lofoten Islands for you.
landscapes, closeness to nature, clear waters, and sense of tranquillity. We had never returned to the same place twice before – yet this was our third visit. It was also the people we met along the way who made us feel so welcome. One of them was Hallgeir @supreine – a presenter for the International Surfing Association, a SUP enthusiast, a surfer, a kitesurfer, an alpine ski instructor, and a freeride skier. It was with him that we planned to discover new SUP spots and explore the mountain lakes.
After days of fickle weather – snow, strong winds, and rain – we finally managed to get out on the water together. We returned to Reinefjord and paddled the route we had planned during our first visit. Back then, strong winds had made it impossible. We admired the turquoise water and the picturesque rorbuer, perched right on the shoreline.
After another rainy day and several hours of waiting for better conditions, we finally caught the evening sun on our boards. Fortunately, in May, the days in the Lofoten Islands are exceptionally long, so even at a late hour, we could enjoy the light and tranquillity on the water.
We made the most of every window of opportunity, constantly keeping an eye on the weather forecasts to achieve our plan.
SUP TREKKING
For our adventure, we selected several lakes. We checked the route to one of them. In the end, we decided to head to a lake recommended by a friend – the approach was shorter. Shorter didn’t mean easier. Climbing over rocky blocks and patches of snow, I began to wonder if I had understood my friend’s story correctly. Maybe I had misremembered – after all, a few months had passed. There was no way anyone could have made it up there with a kayak. Yet Adam @wise_hike did it.
It was another dream fulfilled. Paddling among snow-capped mountains rising straight from the surface of a mountain lake left a memory we want to revisit again and again. We admired the surrounding peaks – their grandeur was awe-inspiring and stirred a quiet sense of gratitude.
The turquoise, crystal-clear water immediately caught our attention. The view was so extraordinary that we didn’t hesitate to make a stop right there.
Sometimes I joke that I paddle just to eat and drink coffee. This time, we had a meal brought from Poland – freeze-dried dishes, simple and reliable in the field. But there were also local flavours – treats prepared by our instructor that added another dimension to the place. Only the aroma of freshly brewed coffee among snow-capped peaks and granite cliffs… and then we had to start our journey back.
We returned to the car by a different route – slightly longer, but clearly easier. After all, we were carrying our boards on our backs. A feeling of unfulfillment remained. Time didn’t allow us to immerse ourselves in this place entirely, but perhaps it’s precisely that feeling that makes us know we’ll come back.
MAGICAL NORTHERN ATMOSPHERE
What do you do when it keeps raining for days on end? You get on your boards. Fortunately, the wind was light, so conditions for paddling remained safe. We must have looked quite peculiar – inflating our SUPs in sheets of rain, completely unfazed by the weather. But we were prepared. Another layer went over our drysuits – waterproof jackets.
The atmosphere felt like something out of a troll’s realm. Waterfalls poured down from the mountains as we explored every corner of the nearby lake. In the end, nature seemed to want to reward us for our earlier efforts. What happened on the water still fills me with quiet wonder. The rain stopped, clouds hung low over the surrounding peaks, the wind fell silent, and the lake’s surface turned into a perfect mirror, reflecting our silhouettes. We paddled through the most beautiful ‘Norwegian fairy tale’ – everything was exactly as it should be.
TRAINING
The goal – or rather, the pretext – for our trip was an instructor course organised by the International Surfing Association (@isasurfing), led by Hallgeir.
When the weekend for the course finally arrived, the weather forecasts weren’t exactly encouraging. We were somewhat used to it by now. We had learned to make the most of weather windows and enjoy the favourable moments. After the theoretical part, we hit the water. The rain wasn’t a problem –º it was the wind…
Our ‘manoeuvres’ took place on the lake. We tried to find a sheltered spot in a cove, but gusts came from different directions, putting us to the test. And you know what? We handled it brilliantly, because this wasn’t a lesson for beginners. On the water were experienced SUPers, who were aiming to earn their instructor certifications. We all agreed that these were ideal conditions for learning.
Technical skills
On the second day, the practical sessions took place in Reine. Participants led selected parts of the lessons, and we honed our technical skills by practising rescue exercises together. Also, we went on a short excursion where we could feel the wind at our backs, admire the clarity of the water, and marvel at the richness of life beneath its surface. As the interpreter for one of the participants, I took part in all activities and am incredibly grateful for the opportunity.
Paddling on a SUP in the Lofoten Islands in May is much more than just acquiring new skills. It’s an experience that combines intensive personal growth with close contact with nature, set against one of Europe’s most spectacular backdrops. Time on the water, the exchange of experiences, and the incredible conditions – from harsh winds to the almost unreal calm of the lake – make such a trip unforgettable.
If you dream of a true adventure, a boost of energy, and meeting inspiring people, the Lofoten Islands are a destination worth marking on your map. Patience, openness, readiness for changing conditions, and a supportive company are all you need. The rest will follow naturally.
RECOMMENDED
@supreine Hallgeir Wendelbo inspires not only with his knowledge but also with his approach to life – full of respect for nature, mindfulness, and calm. He shows that time spent outdoors with family isn’t just an extra, but an essential part of life and relationships. He offers guided SUP tours, which you can find more information about here: SUP adventures Lofoten.
@wise_hike, or Adam, is an experienced kayak guide who can show you the most beautiful corners of Reinefjorden. He also serves as a stivakt – a trail guardian on Reinebringen, combining the roles of guide and rescuer. He educates visitors on the rules of Norwegian nature, promoting responsible tourism and respect for the environment. It’s worth visiting his Instagram profile, where he shares knowledge and inspiration from the mountains and fjords.
Hydrosfera is a well-established store with over 20 years of experience, specialising in water sports equipment, including SUP, windsurfing, kitesurfing, and wingfoiling. It is the official representative of the Starboard brand in Poland. Hydrosfera is also a meeting place for water sports enthusiasts, organising equipment tests, training sessions, and events related to water activities.
