WORDS: ELAINE FARQUHARSON

PHOTOS: ELAINE FARQUHARSON
& Jurassic Coast Trust​

Elaine’s Bio

Paddling with Jurassic sea monsters

We love to paddle for many reasons, such as the thrill of the water, immersion into the stunning scenery, or perhaps witnessing a cheeky dolphin and all the incredible marine biology enjoying their natural habitat. I think we don’t often think about the natural history of an area; it’s not always obvious to be reminded that once enormous sea monsters used to live in our waters.

That’s what I think is so special about the Jurassic Coast, which stretches 95 miles from Orcombe Point in Exmouth, Devon, to Old Harry Rocks in Studland, Dorset. It’s a place to paddle and reconnect with life from 145-201 million years ago.

The Jurassic Coast is a UNESCO World Heritage site managed by the Jurassic Coast Trust, who protects and promotes the fragility and wonder of this beautiful area. Along its length are various centres, collections, and museums showcasing the natural history, providing locals and visitors with opportunities to connect, learn and share the science of palaeontology and geology.

ROSIE TRIASSIC ROCKS
The oldest section from Orcombe Point to Branscombe is famous for its red Triassic sandstone before the coast changes in colour to the white chalk cliffs at Beer and the more traditional coastal colours at Seaton.The paddle is fairly straightforward between these points, with easy landings along the journey; however, the Exe Estuary has strong tidal flows and currents that require prior planning. Also, there is a tidal race on the ebb just past Exmouth at Straight Point, and the military firing ranges require checking before paddling past. At Seaton, an exciting tourist attraction called Jurassic Discovery will open in the spring of 2024.

A LIVING COAST
The next section is a true example of the Living Coast and why the Jurassic Coast is so special. Here coastal erosion and landslips reveal the natural history within its sediments. It’s a section of constant change, and the towering cliffs are an unstable force of nature that should not be underestimated. This is where the Victorians flocked to fossil hunting, and the pioneering palaeontologist Mary Anning made her first discoveries about dinosaurs, which would change our knowledge of the ancient natural world.

LYME BAY NATURAL HISTORY PARADISE
Paddling along this section takes you from Seaton towards the capital of fossil hunting, Lyme Regis. Here, there is a fabulous fossil museum www.lymeregismuseum.co.uk and plenty of eateries to enjoy the town’s artisan character and proud heritage as the once home town to Mary Anning. Time your trip with a stop at the Lyme Regis Fossil Festival, and you can learn all about the wonderful world of palaeontology through the interactive displays, events and pop-up museums along the whole shoreline of Lyme Regis. Or enjoy a calmer visit, landing on the shores to admire the many large ammonites in the rocks under your feet.

As we head past Lyme to the Eastern section of Lyme Bay, the character of the cliffs turns golden as you paddle to the cute village of Charmouth. It has the most fabulous visitor centre, https://charmouth.org/chcc/lyme-bay/#, and the opportunity to hire a fossil collecting kit and enjoy some respite from the formidable cliffs. This has to be one of the main places to find a fossil yourself in a safer location from rock falls. However, continuing east, the cliff builds to the highest point at Golden Cap and continues to West Bay, where there is a gap in the cliff for the small harbour and town.

Although the places along this section have villages or towns on the shores, they aren’t always accessible places to land and are a committing distance apart. The water builds in character and can create thunderous shore dumps and strong tow-back or wind-driven surf sections. It can be quite a spectacle to observe, and careful planning is needed to watch the wind and tide to make the exits or launching sites safe.

CHESIL BEACH LONG SHORE DRIFT
The following section continues as a vast wilderness of longshore drift called Chesil Beach, which is 18km long until you reach Portland at its eastern end. Here, the tow back and beach dumps can be monstrous, and it is well worth catching the spectacle on a stormy day from the safety of the shore. Again, you must plan ahead before committing to this adventure; otherwise, there is no exiting safely. Behind Chesil Beach is a fine lagoon called the Fleet, which connects to Abbotsbury to Portland Harbour and can offer an alternative protected section of water to paddle in windier conditions.

Tidal flow however at Ferrybridge can create eddies or hydrology similar to a short grade 1 and the shallows in the higher reaches can become quite a challenge especially in the upper reaches. The whole section of water is a marine protected area and you can learn more about the amazing wildlife of the Fleet at the family visitor centre on its shores. www.dorsetwildlifetrust.org.uk/wildchesilcentre

ADVANCED WATERS OF PORTLAND AND THE PLAYFUL WEYMOUTH BAY
A circumnavigation of Portland should be on any experienced paddler’s bucket list, but this is advanced water paddling. It is an epic paddle with stunning geology, water hydrology, caves and marine wildlife. Here, we have the famous Portland Bill lighthouse marking the treacherous tidal races that form off the point of the Bill.There are extreme tidal flows all the way around, with various races and eddies that form at varying times before and after high water.The trip requires advanced tidal planning and navigation and sound paddling skills. It must only be attempted with this; if in doubt, there are some exceptional local paddling guides to help.

Once you hit Weymouth Bay, the paddling becomes much more protected and much easier than the previous sections until you reach Bowleaze, where the cliffs start to build, but there are still easy landings to Osmington and Ringstead Bay. Local to this is Dorchester, a short drive up the road with its newly extended Museum for Natural History, which is very interactive and has some fine examples of pliosaurs and ichthyosaurs you can get up close to https://www.dorsetmuseum.org

LULWORTH ESTATE
After Ringstead, the beautiful white rocks become sheer-sided cliffs that drop straight into the water. Here are some of the finest examples of striations, rock formations along the Jurassic Coast, and the famous jewels of Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove.

A small visitor centre at Lulworth is also worth stopping at while enjoying the local refreshments.

Heading east from Lulworth, the rock formations and inlets remain spectacular; however, this whole section is a large military firing range which needs checking for opening and prohibited landing areas. Tow back isn’t a big issue here, but there can be long sections of commitment needed for your paddles, and the ledges at Kimmeridge should not be underestimated as, in the right conditions, this is a local favourite surf hang-out with large waves forming. It’s at Kimmeridge that the latest dinosaur was discovered and recently shown on the BBC. The newly identified Pilosaur is exhibited at the Etchers Fossil collection and is a must-visit if you are planning your trip from Kimmeridge. https://www.theetchescollection.org

IMPENETRABLE ISLE OF PURBECK CLIFFS
Paddling around the Isle of Purbeck is a notch above most of the trip paddles along the Jurassic Coast, except Portland; this is again due to the impenetrable cliffs and impossible landings but also the strong currents and tidal races that form on various headlands around the coast. As we paddle east, we can stop at Chapman Pool, which has some access if you decide an escape is needed before committing to the races at St Albans head.

It is then 7km of cliffs to pass the tidal races at Dulston Head; however, there is a chance to stop at Dancing Ledges before it, but I wouldn’t enjoy the hike up the hill and the scrambles to try to escape from here. Having passed Durlston head, you are then exposed to the overfall at Peveril Point at the entrance to the seaside town of Swanage, with its welcomed landing, attractions, and sandy shores.

Finale
The last section is to head from Swanage to Studland, past the white cliffs and pinnacles of Old Harry rocks. The focus here is on the beautiful rock shapes, caves and weaving features, with a fun tidal race to challenge you as you round the final pinnacle of Old Harry. Landing at one of Studland beaches we say goodbye to the Jurassic rock and welcome the Cretaceous period of geology which signifies the end of the Jurassic coast and its wonderful natural history and fossilised dinosaurs.

So next time you’re paddling wherever that might be in the world, take a moment to connect to a time lost when dinosaurs roamed the land, but sea monsters like pliosaurs and ichthyosaurs swam in the sea. As you paddle over the depths, imagine their power’s sheer size and magnitude and pay a little respect to how feeble we are in comparison. I think we all remember learning about dinosaurs as a child, but it’s not often as adults a place can stimulate and inspire the inner child like the Jurassic Coast does. So, if you are visiting, make sure to visit one of the fabulous visitor centres along the coast to help fire up your imagination and make your paddling journey one to remember.