Words:
Steve Dickinson

Photos:
Adventure/Ski&
Snow Media

Huge thanks
To Steve Dickinson, who is a director at Adventure & Ski and Snow Media. You can read their publications for free digitally at: www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/68551110/adventure-magazine

More than just a race:
Hawaiki Nui 2024

There is sometimes a moment in sports where culture and sporting ability combine, the cohesion of identity and skill, antiquity, and technical excellence. Like Muay Thai in Thailand or Sumo in Japan, these are like two waves crashing against each other in a moment, the unique combination of culture, sporting expertise, and popularity. The Hawaiki Nui Va’a race embodies a synergy of identity, tradition, and technical excellence. This is more than a race; it is a living, breathing celebration of Polynesian culture.

The start
Trying to explain the Hawaiki Nui to anyone is difficult. There are sometimes hundreds of va’a (outrigger canoes), and every va’a has at least one support boat, plus multiple boatloads of supporters. Then, compress them all in the confines of a lagoon only metres deep. Somewhere, a gun heralds a start, and hundreds of va’a, plus support boats, plus spectators, plus TV, plus media, plus friends and family, all race towards a tiny opening in the lagoon reef, the pass, where the pounding surf could be at least 10-foot. It is confusing and dramatic, but most of all, it is impressive, and the race has only just started.

The Hawaiki Nui is the world’s most prestigious outrigger canoe race and a major sporting event in the Tahitian sporting calendar. Held annually, the race traverses the Society Archipelago’s stunning and challenging waters, offering a unique combination of spectacular location, physical endurance, technique, and Polynesian culture.

The Hawaiki Nui Va’a has its roots deeply embedded in the traditions of Polynesian water culture. Outrigger canoes have been and still are central to the lifestyle of Pacific Islanders for centuries, used for transportation, fishing, and navigating between the islands. The Hawaiki Nui Va’a race was established in 1992 to celebrate this deep-rooted heritage, bringing together paddlers worldwide to honour the skills, endurance, and camaraderie with the world expansion of outrigger canoe racing.

The mythical homeland of the Polynesians
The event was created to highlight the traditional sport of outrigger canoeing and emphasise the canoe’s cultural significance to the people of French Polynesia and the wider Pacific. The name ‘Hawaiki Nui’ refers to the mythical homeland of the Polynesians, often associated with the Marquesas Islands, and symbolises the islands’ spiritual and historical connection.

Over the years, the race has grown in prestige, attracting elite teams from all over the Pacific and from countries further afield, including New Zealand, Australia, the United States, and Japan.

Endurance and skill
The race consists of three stages that span a total distance of approximately 128 kilometres (about eighty miles) and takes paddlers across various ocean conditions. Each leg of the race offers a unique test of endurance and skill, with teams navigating the open ocean, strong currents, compounding fatigue and shifting winds. The Hawaiki Nui is the ultimate test of paddling ability, which requires teamwork and the ability to navigate challenging conditions while conserving energy for the duration of the race.

The race has three parts: Huahine to Raiatea, a sprint section in the Raiatea Lagoon to Taha’a, and a concluding section to Taha’a across an expansive swell-laden ocean to the legendary Bora Bora.

The start – Huahine: The Island of Women
Often described as one of French Polynesia’s most tranquil and least major touristy islands, Huahine is a hidden gem, perfect for travellers seeking authenticity and serenity. Just a short flight from Tahiti, Huahine comprises two islands, Huahine Nui (Big Huahine) and Huahine Iti (Little Huahine), connected by a small bridge. The island is famed for its lush, jungle-covered mountains, pristine beaches, and clear lagoons.

Huahine has a rawness, an earthy feel, and a wealth of culture, including ancient maraes (temples), where visitors can learn about the island’s traditional history. The island is also renowned for its vanilla plantations and the famous ‘sacred eels’ of Faie Bay.

The Middle – Raiatea: The Sacred Island
Often overshadowed by Bora Bora, Raiatea is a culturally rich and historically significant island. Known as the ‘sacred island,’ it is home to the Taputapuātea Marae, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This ancient Polynesian religious and political centre was once a hub for navigating the Pacific and is central to the history of the Polynesian people.

Raiatea also boasts lush rainforests, waterfalls, and peaceful lagoons, making it perfect for eco-tourism and adventure travel. Raiatea is a less commercialised destination than Bora Bora, offering a more tranquil and intimate experience for those seeking a deeper connection to Polynesian culture. Raiatea is the end of the first leg of the race from Huahine and the beginning of the sprint race to Taha’a.

Taha’a: The Vanilla Island
Located just north of Raiatea, Taha’a is often called the ‘Vanilla Island’ because of its world-renowned vanilla production. The island is also famous for its stunning coral gardens and motus (small islets), offering pristine beaches and clear waters ideal for swimming and relaxing. Taha’a is the finish of the sprint race from Raiatea; the sprint section leaves Raiatea Harbour and follows the land, then the edge of the lagoon but always staying within the confines of the lagoon and not having to deal with the bigger swell patterns of open ocean, the more professional team will have a specific lighter crew for this sprint leg of the race.

Although there is no defined swell within the lagoon, the refracted swell of hundreds of support boats within the confines of the lagoon, which is sometimes only 100m wide, can cause paddling chaos.

The Finish – Bora Bora: The Pearl of the Pacific
Bora Bora is often hailed as the most beautiful island in the world. Known for its shallow turquoise lagoon surrounded by a ring of coral reefs, Bora Bora’s dramatic backdrop of Mount Otemanu offers breathtaking views. As the competitors race from Taha’a to Bora Bora, the ever-looming mountain Otemanu seems so close but still so far. Even as the va’a get close to Bora Bora, they approach the lagoon from the wrong end and spend at least another hour skimming the other edge of the lagoon to fish in the shallow waters of Povai Harbour. The shallow waters of the Bora Bora Lagoon are world-renowned. When you look at the horizon, it is often hard to tell where the water stops and the sky begins, and that is how clear the water is. At the finish, the harbour is full of boats anchored in the shallow water, music is playing, girls are dancing, it is a party!

The finish line
The finish crossing line is a unique spectacle. For hundreds of metres, crowds line the sides of the lagoon, yelling, singing, and banging drums as each va’a passes by, first or last. The crowd is only feet away, splashing them with water, throwing flowers, and cheering. As the boats gather at the finish, there is a cultural comradery and appreciation; first or last, simply finishing is an achievement, crews have flowers placed around their necks and loved ones push them through the shallow waters to the shore.

The race has now turned into a celebration.

This year’s race
In the 2024 Hawaiki Nui, the 31st edition of this prestigious event, the number of Va’a teams was noticeably smaller. Nevertheless, the competition was fierce, with three teams in contention for the title heading into the final day of races.

After two stages, Huahine goes to Raiatea, and then the sprint section goes from Raiatea to Taha’a. Team OPT held a slim eight-second lead over Shell Va’a. Shell Va’a, which had sparked some doubts after a third-place finish the previous day, silenced its critics with a robust performance in the second stage, the sprint. Air Tahiti Nui (last year’s runner-up) was still in the hunt, trailing Team OPT by 97 seconds and with a chance to make a late push for the win.

As the race began on the final day, from Taha’a to Bora Bora, a leading pack soon formed in the open ocean, featuring Team Huahine, Shell Va’a, and Air Tahiti. One aspect of this section of the race is location. Teams can be kilometres apart, looking for swell and wind assistance, and it is almost impossible for spectators and teams to decide who is in front.

A thrilling spectacle
After hours of relentless paddling in the open ocean, seconds only separated the leaders; the final forty minutes of the race delivered a thrilling spectacle. Team OPT and Air Tahiti engaged in a fierce head-to-head battle, paddle for paddle and wave for wave. A big part of this type of racing is catching a swell. This gives a moment respite and jacks the va’a forward, as one team would catch a swell and move forward so the opposition would find a follow-up swell and catch up, providing fans with a gripping display of long-distance racing.

Finish positions
In the end, Air Tahiti edged out Team OPT by just a few seconds to win the stage. Still, Team OPT’s consistent performance over the previous days was enough to secure its second consecutive championship title. Shell Va’a, finishing fourth behind Team Huahine, could not hold off Air Tahiti, with only five seconds separating the two teams for second place overall.

The race was exciting and thrilling. The top teams were just seconds apart, even after so many kilometres of paddling. But thrilling as the race had been, the location, people, and culture overshadowed such a momentous event.

Hawaiki Nui 2024 was more than a race. It was a celebration of Polynesian identity, a showcase of athletic mastery, and a reminder of the enduring connection between people and their ocean. As much as the teams pushed their limits, the event’s ‘spirit’ was the ultimate winner.