Words: Adriana Eyzaguirre
Photos: Rob Eade and Giorgos Lilas
No, not really. That is an enterprise for a life time and quite frankly, his seas have much to offer too. So what is it like to kayak in these old islands? Well, it is not only about the kayaking. It is about the lifestyle to be had from a kayak in this part of the Med. It is about the things you can smell and see. It is about the balmy air scented with pine, the stars you see at night from your deserted beach camp after paddling for hours. There is a certain wilderness, a human wilderness, that creeps up as you paddle among the islands. Maybe it is people’s ancient Mediterranean roots that awake and the primitive human that surfaces far from modern life.
The islands of the Inland Sea, Greece Discovering the home of Ulysses
This area is an archipelago of many islands which make loading your kayak and setting off an adventure of discovery. Of course, there are many open water crossings but generally, there is a fantastic taverna with fresh fish, cold beers and local produce at the landing spots. The islands of the Inland Sea is where time has stood still. Rattly cars with number plates from the 80s drive around on the only road there is and the locals come out to say hello and watch these strange people that venture out to sea using these nutty crafts.
Not all is stuck in time, there are young people coming back to the islands due to the lack of work in the big cities and the recession that has affected the country. They are setting up new businesses with an innovative take on the traditional Greek approach. So there are new vibrant bars, restaurants serving mussels spiced with pine needles and to die for cocktails with amazing sea views from newly restored windmills and ruined old stone houses.
The islands have lost a lot of the young population as work is seasonal and low paid and the old generation have cornered all the traditional businesses. So the ones coming back have to carve a special place for the product they offer and work hard to make something of quality and novelty. This also means that the islands get an influx of new blood and the small local communities have hope of growing once again.
In the Med it is hard to find places with tides and flow. In this area there are none but the conditions are driven by wind. The land is mountainous which makes the wind forecast one thing, but to interpret how it will actually affect a day’s paddling, requires the experience of having spent time in the area. Seemingly mildish winds of Bft4 can tumble down mountains and valleys and hit the water at Bft6. There are different rules for different times of year, but generally when the land and the sea warm up, the mornings are calm and the afternoons brings strong NW winds that get sucked out to sea.
Depending where you are among the islands, you may be sheltered or exposed so route planning and launch times need to be carefully considered. The swell of the Med is fat and round and wind driven chop has a very short period. Unless it is very stormy and there are south winds, both the swell and the chop have little height which means paddlers have to deal mostly with only one or two strong conditions working together.
Looking at the fishermans’ boats and their wide hulls, you can see they are built to rock on the trough and ride the ridges of these fat waves. A good pilot will keep the boat on the ridge for ages before hitting a through, which is a bit hard to fully copy in a kayak but it is fun trying. For the open water crossings, we generally choose the mornings to cruise to our destinations and to ensure we have the opportunity to look at cliffs, explore the huge caves on the route, stop in coves to swim and eat and arrive before the winds catch us in the middle of the sea.
The character of the islands has remained quite unchanged since the 50s when there was a very strong earthquake that destroyed many villages and caused many to emigrate to Australia, South Africa and the US. Because of the mountains and the rocky ground, putting up high rise buildings is so expensive that there are no large hotels or other mass tourism complexes. There are also a lot of rules about building, which have helped preserve the village character of the settlements. The long recession the country has undergone has also played a part in keeping things underdeveloped. All in all, for an unspoilt, cosy and friendly escape from modern life in a warm environment, this place ticks all the boxes.
The experience here is not normally one of dynamic water handling although it can happen, but mostly one of a meditative contemplation on crossings, paddling to explore the coastline, visiting tavernas, sleeping in coves under a very striking Milky Way, enjoying the warmth, swimming with the fishes and discovering small deserted beaches with goats and turquoise waters. I can’t really understand why Ulysses left all of this behind and spent so long away from his kingdom fighting in the Trojan wars.
Maybe there are some parallels with young people today forced to leave this area in search of work or to satisfy the desire to discover the big world, only to yearn for what they left behind and end up spending years hatching the perfect plan to come back home.
We run island hopping trips as well as hotel and day trip format breaks to explore the area. We also do multi-activity breaks with hiking, kayaking, diving and night walks with yummy picnics and local wines to stargaze in the mountains.
For more info, contact adriana@outdoorithaca.com
Information
https://goo.gl/maps/KEhkaNt8hrL41Bfp6
Location:
The Ionian Islands, are a group off the west coast of Greece, stretching south from the Albanian coast to the southern tip of the Peloponnese, and often called Heptanesos (‘Seven Islands’). The islands are Corfu, Kefallonia, Zakynthos, Lefkada, Ithaca, Kythira and Paxos, with their minor dependencies. Together they form a periféreia (region) of Greece.
Passports/VISAS:
Visitors to Greece with EU passports are rarely given more than a cursory glance, but customs and police may be interested in what you are carrying. EU citizens may also enter Greece on a national identity card. Visitors from outside the EU may require a visa. Be sure to check with consular authorities before you arrive.
GETTING THERE:
The larger Ionian islands of Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos have their own airports, while Lefkada is a short drive from Preveza airport on the mainland. All four of these islands are connected to each other by Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) and with Athens by Olympic Air (www.olympicair.com) and all also welcome direct flights from Northern Europe. Kythira has direct flight connections with Athens only.
Ferries connect each island with its closest neighbours, in some instances in summer only, and also with the Greek mainland. Paxi, Antipaxi and Ithaki do not have airports, and are thus accessible by ferry only. Kythira is not linked by ferry to the other Ionians, but it’s a stop for boats en route between Crete and the Greek mainland.
Healthcare:
If you’re an EU citizen, a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) covers you for most medical care but not emergency repatriation or non-emergencies. Citizens from other countries should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for free medical care between their country and Greece.
Although medical training is of a high standard in Greece, the public health service is badly underfunded. and hospitals can be overcrowded, Relatives are expected to bring in food for the patient – which can be a problem for a traveller. Conditions and treatment are much better in private hospitals, which are expensive. All this means that a good health-insurance policy is essential.
Water:
Tap water is drinkable and safe in most of Greece but not always in small villages and on some of the islands. Always ask locally if the water is safe and, if in doubt, drink boiled or bought water. Even when water is safe, the substances and bacteria in it may be different from those you are used to and occasionally, can cause vomiting or diarrhoea.
resources:
EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; www.visitgreece.gr). Concise tourist information.
Greek Travel Pages (www.gtp.gr). Access to ferry schedules and accommodation.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/greece). Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.
Ministry of Culture (www.culture.gr). For cultural events and sights.
Viva.gr (https://travel.viva.gr/en/ferries). A new site, fabulous for ferry schedules and tickets, among other services.
