By Rhi Davies
Cumbria Canoeists – Colonsay and Oronsay sea kayaking
Twelve keen, ‘intermediate’ sea kayakers, six days of paddling, four leaders, and two small islands.
We would be based out of the Colonsay backpackers for five nights, with wild camping planned for our final two nights around Colonsay and Oransay. We were eating fresh mussels waiting for our CalMac ferry from Oban, so we wondered what the week would hold in store.
For some, it had been a busy few months, none of us having paddled as much as we would have liked, so the first day of paddling allowed us to stretch out and find our sea legs again. Strong northerlies meant we kept to the more sheltered east side of Colonsay, stopping to explore the abandoned village of Riasg Buidhe before paddling to Balnahard Beach for lunch. Isolated, pristine Hebridean white sandy beaches became the theme of the week.
We covered about 15-20 kilometres each day; however, the focus was more on exploring the interesting coastline, playing in the surges and observing the wildlife rather than ploughing through the miles. On days two and three, two of our aspirant sea kayak leaders, Chris and Dean, had a go at leading a group for the day – under the watchful eyes of our leaders, Mike, Mike, Cedric and Andy.
Chris, an aspirant leader, explained: “The Colonsay trip provided my first two opportunities to lead a group along the varied coastline in stunning conditions. The sea conditions were varied, but the group members were all well behaved (!) and supportive of each other. Everyone found a comfortable place, either closer to or further away from the swell around the rocky shore.
“The highlight was shadowed by around 100 seals for the final three miles of our journey, bobbing up all around us, with the curious pups wanting to discover more about these strange colourful creatures that had entered their world. Pure magic.”
Dean, another aspirant leader, shared: “Nothing can turn one’s bowels to water like water – particularly sea water – and having to lead a group of kayakers I had only just met, on a dynamic sea, along a coastline I had never previously visited – that was the task facing me on the second day of our Colonsay adventure. Under the scrutiny of a few qualified leaders, I was tasked to lead a small group of paddlers from Scalasaig around the southern tip of Oronsay to the Strand. This often submerged causeway links Colonsay and Oronsay. It was a 25km paddle in bumpy seas, often against a stiff headwind, but the group were brilliant and more than up to the challenge, good-naturedly putting up with my inexperience and arriving at the exit point tired but exhilarated. Altogether a great group and a memorable first lead for me.”
Nicola wrote: “Throughout the week, paddlers began to see progression in their skills. On days one to two, I gained confidence in strong northerlies, which I wouldn’t have tackled without the support of the group and the coaches. On day three, I was given good advice to turn back and ‘bank’ the progress I had made rather than continue and risk a setback by facing wind, waves, surges and turbulence that were too much for my ability level. This was a good learning experience.”
On the final day paddling from the base, some paddlers headed north to test themselves in the challenging swell. The others opted for a gentler paddle, exploring the dramatic cliffs of the western coast, home to enormous colonies of seabirds, notably guillemots, razorbills and shags. That evening, we enjoyed a seafood meal at the famed Colonsay Pantry and talked over the previous day’s thrills and spills (real ones).
Our final two days of paddling involved wild camping. We set off from the port of Scalasaig, heading South, with the plan of camping on the Isle of Oronsay.
Here’s what Julian had to say: “One of the features of sea kayak touring is how the journey can unexpectedly change character. After the rush of packing, the unfamiliar feel of a heavier boat and a cold lunch stop, we turned a corner into a sheltered bay of turquoise water; the clouds dissolved, the sun came out, and a group of offshore islets called out for exploration. An odyssey of white shell beaches, seal colonies and inviting narrow channels between rock outcrops followed. A short paddle completed the passage to the campsite, a grassy area bordering a white sand beach with stunning views across Islay and the Paps of Jura.”
The wild camp allowed us to explore Oronsay further on foot. A short walk across the fields and around the nature reserve led us to Oronsay Priory, where we explored the 16th-century grave slabs, had a nap in the sunshine and kept our eyes peeled for the notoriously shy (but surprisingly noisy) corncrake.
Natalie commented: “The part of the trip that I was most nervous about was the wild camping – I had never camped from my boat before. I suffer from the cold at night, and I’m known amongst my friends as the kitchen sink paddler, so I wondered how on earth I would fit everything in and survive! Ultimately, it was the best part of the trip; I had loads of help from the others on what and how to pack, put up my tent and wash up with sand and seaweed!
“It was interesting to see everyone’s one luxury item was; binoculars, bacon, and cafetière. Mine was thick pyjamas, and I was fine. The simplicity of packing up your boat and paddling on to the next spot was serene.”
The final day of paddling saw us paddle around the south of Oronsay, passing a siege of herons and a large seal colony before crossing The Strand and setting camp for the last time back on Colonsay. The evening seemed to stretch on forever, a few brave souls taking a swim before settling down to watch the sunset. The sky was still blushed pink into the early hours of the morning.
Andy – part of the leader team, said: “All I would say, in addition, is that I find one of the major joys of sea kayaking is the freedom to explore at leisure an intricate coastline that would be otherwise inaccessible, either by larger craft or from the land. Around the west coast of Colonsay and the Isle of Oronsay, we saw hundreds of seabirds and seals, spectacular landforms of cliffs, islands, skerries and beaches, sites of historical interest and a carpet of spring flowers on any of the islets without grazing sheep. Sharing these simple pleasures and journeying with the companionship and security of the group (plus brilliant weather) made this week rather special.”
For many of us, it was not just the stunning weather but the company that made the week so special, as Eric summarises nicely: “The obvious highlight for me was our great good fortune with the weather – that made everything we did a pleasure. The opportunity to learn and practice all manner of things from paddling in more challenging conditions to hints and tips on equipment and boat set up was great, but most importantly, the group of folks together was the real highlight.”
Ray, our senior member of the team said: “Colonsay, was something special, despite me thinking I was a good calm weather man. The WILD west coast of Colonsay was FANTASTIC. I enjoyed it all and cannot wait ‘till the next trip.”
Many thanks to the leaders for guiding and coaching the whole group and us for a very enjoyable week of paddling. I’ll certainly be dreaming of Colonsay – until the next one!
To conclude from Mike – team lead: “From the organising and coach/leader team point of view, we are delighted with the feedback and to see the positive developments and improvements that a week’s experience can create. The backcloth of the Isles – Mull, Jura and Islay – and varied coastline on offer were appreciated by all, offering various options to suit the group member’s needs, not to mention the final Caribbean weather we experienced towards the end of the week.”
