A chat with the paddler who is circumnavigating Europe… Urban Heupgen
Hi, my name is Urban, I am 52 years old, and I grew up in Munich, Germany. I travelled a lot in my life, visited all of Europe and the North American continent, and lived in a camper van. Before this trip, I had never kayaked or done any other watersports. I spend a lot of time on my projects in Lithuania and Spain.
Where exactly did you begin the circumnavigation? Which countries have you paddled, and how long has it taken you to reach Scotland?
At first, and until Barcelona, this trip wasn’t meant to be a circumnavigation. I bought my kayak in Tallinn, Estonia, in 2007 and was originally trying to find a way to transport it to Germany, where I wanted to paddle. I found no practicable, inexpensive way to bring it home, so I decided to paddle it home, crossing over to Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and Germany.
Six years later, again interested in kayaking, I started on the Danube River in Ulm. From here on, I would say, that this is the beginning of my circumnavigation, although this was still not planned at that time. Paddling down the Danube River to the Black Sea is a popular adventure among European paddlers, but I had the urge to explore further. I was very curious what would come next. Turkey and the Mediterranean seemed very appealing to me, and why transport the kayak when I can paddle?
Over the following years, between work, I added one trip after another, left my kayak where I stopped, and continued from there the next time, until I ended up in Barcelona, travelling to Turkey, Greece, Italy, France and Spain. Five years later, in 2024, I finally decided, following the example of Freya Hoffmeister, to make it a circumnavigation of Europe. I went around Spain and Portugal in 2024 and started this year in May, aiming to reach Scotland, where I stopped for the season by the end of August.
What was it that gave you the idea of circumnavigating Europe?
When I restarted in Barcelona, I had a sailing catamaran and could have travelled much more comfortably. But I am made for adventures. The idea of circumnavigating a whole continent in something so small as a kayak fascinated me; it seemed very special, especially if it had not been done before.
How does kayaking on the ocean give you particular satisfaction?
There is indeed nothing more satisfying than being far out at sea. Coastlines are, in many places, beautiful, wild and interesting, but out on the ocean, when all the land disappears behind the horizon, you feel solitude and loneliness. And this is for me the most satisfying experience. An ordinary kayak is not necessarily made or intended for the open water, crossing over to faraway destinations like from island to island in Greece, for example, but doing it anyway, sometimes met with admiration, sometimes with confusion, doing something most people wouldn’t do is exactly my thing.
What draws you to these long and challenging adventure paddles?
Doing something that nobody has done before, I am still not one hundred percent sure, but on the other hand, it would have been known long ago. This is something that draws me to a certain point; I cannot deny it.
Which has been your most challenging part of the expedition?
There have been many, relative to my experience. The first, and for a long time only big challenge was crossing from Estonia to Finland with almost zero paddling experience. People called me crazy, but for some reason, I knew that I could do it, and I managed just fine. Besides that first 60-kilometre crossing, the Baltic Sea, the Danube River, and the Black Sea didn’t offer many opportunities for me to make much progress in my experience.
Greece was the first place I encountered a few difficulties and challenges because of its many crossings from island to island, ranging from 40 to 70 kilometres, and Greece is definitely not an easy paddling destination for the inexperienced paddler like I was. One Crossing in particular: the forecast had predicted a Beaufort 4.
The crossing from Mykonos to Ikaria turned out to be the most challenging, I remember. The wind has increased to six Beaufort in the middle of the passage, turning around was no option, I have reached my absolute limit in terms of my abilities. In northern France, north of Ile de Batz, I experienced my first, quite violent tide race, which I had not known to exist. The current draws me into an area where a 2-3 metre swell rose to a very steep, at least five-metre mess with overfalls. I was praying not to die here.
You must have met some memorable and kind people on your travels – would you care to name a few and why?
Although I am someone who is not looking for paddling-company necessarily, I like solitude and tranquility, and definitely prefer to be alone in my camp, I have met hundreds of friendly and gorgeous people over these years, mostly local people who I met on the beach, in my camp, who offered me food and help and mean a lot to me, because they are a big part of my adventure. I remember all of them, but with only very few, I am still in contact.
What kayak and equipment are you using at the moment?
Amazingly, and I often think about this when I am far from the coast, I still paddle my first and only 18-year-old Reval Viking from Tahe, which I bought in Tallinn. Advertised as a fast River kayak by that time, with a significant load capability and not necessarily made for bigger waves or the open ocean. I never sat in or paddled in another kayak, which already has many scratches and has been repaired often.
Sometimes I would like to try another kayak at least, never really had the chance, but would never abandon my beloved one, which carried me for so many thousands of kilometres now. I changed my no-name paddle to a mid-wing from Epic just this year, and finally, after using the same gear for thousands of kilometres, I got a new cagdeck from Reed Chillcheater, who also supported me when I was in Braunton on my way to Wales.
You restart the circumnavigation of Europe again in May. Will this be from Scotland, where you left off in September? When and where will you finish?
Yes, I always continue where I stopped the previous year. I always left my kayak in marinas, kayak clubs, and with people who offered storage, and then continued at the same spot, because I don’t want to leave a gap in my route. Unfortunately, there is no way to say where I will end up in Fall 2026, as the route is still unclear.
I might have to wait a long time for the right weather window to do the big crossings I have in mind. It could be another 4,000 kilometres to the Shetlands. The route to Norway lies behind a big question mark. After doing the rest of Scotland, can I include Iceland and the Faroe Islands in my journey? I am still trying to find out.
Have you spoken or taken advice from any paddlers who have undertaken similar expeditions around Europe in the past?
Because of the following destinations I might undertake next year, including long-distance open-water paddling, I need advice from experienced paddlers, as I still do not consider myself very experienced. I am in contact now with Jeff Allen and Patrick Winterton. I am also interested in talking to Freya, but I think she is paddling right now on her circumnavigation of North America.
Do you have any favourite conditions for sea kayaking, or are you happy with whatever Mother Nature bowls your way on the day?
Calm conditions are always good for distances, but are rarely experienced outside of the Mediterranean. When I crossed from Wales to Ireland, I was lucky to have a flat sea, which helped me get back on course. Otherwise, I take what I get until Beaufort Force 5, depending on the distance, but resting a day or two when paddling for months is a nice thing anyway.
How have you changed as a person due to your extended expeditions?
I am not really sure if paddling, or this adventure so far, changed me. The trip is certainly a big part of my life, no doubt, and for that reason, I became a paddler, enjoying water sports I have not done before.
What’s the most enjoyable encounter with wildlife that you’ve had?
I have seen Orcas in Greece and Gibraltar. This was fascinating and somehow frightening at the same time because of the problems and encounters with boats. Seeing Dolphins is always a gorgeous feeling. I saw them almost every day, huge jellyfish in Wales. I was hoping to see whales in Ireland and Scotland, but was not lucky enough. I saw Puffins in Wales and Ireland, the cutest birds ever, and I fell in love with them. Fascinating animals anyway, knowing where they go on their journeys.
If you could capture just one ‘feel good’ moment in your time kayaking, which would it be and why?
Somewhere in the Marmara Sea, I saw a turtle floating on the water. When I got closer, I saw her wrapped in ropes, not able to swim. I pulled her onto my spraydeck. I didn’t have a knife, but somehow got rid of all these ropes. She was still alive and let her free.
Is there any issue that stops you from sleeping at night?
Not really. I mean, on my tour, there is the weather forecast, which could worry me, or how to launch from the beach I came in on; it could be a different situation the next day, after the wind picks up overnight. I usually sleep well and profoundly. My following destinations have more potential to keep me awake.
Are you tempted to write a book on the circumnavigation when you have finished?
Yes, I have thought about it, and it is still in my mind. When I finished my circumnavigation, this tour was an adventure no one had ever done before, with endless great experiences. It would certainly fill a book. I am just not sure if I am a good writer.
What advice would you give your younger self?
Nothing really. All I have done has its reasons, and is exactly what I had to go through. There are tons of things I could have made better or differently, but then… everything would have turned out differently.
What’s your favourite day-trip paddle?
I think you don’t mean what was the best paddle day on my tour, because there were so many – relaxing on a gorgeous coast, exploring caves and hidden beaches, or cruising through hundreds of islands like in Sweden. But the best of all is, after days and weeks out in the open sea, spending some days on a canal or river.
Do you have an ultimate achievement, and if so, what?
Of course, completing my trip around Europe, and preferably all parts of Europe, if I am strong enough to do so. This would, later on, also include Russia, paddling back to the Black Sea. Getting visas, permissions, and all sorts of allowances for Russia will be hard, and I hope they understand what I am doing and don’t put too many obstacles in my way. But this will be in a couple of years, and I don’t think about this too much now.
What’s the one location you haven’t paddled that would be on your bucket list?
Let’s just assume that I reach Istanbul again and the circle is closed, I would like to paddle around Sicily and Sardinia completely. These are the central Islands of Europe, and I might not call it a circumnavigation without really going around these. And there are other destinations in the far north of Europe which I could include, but this is beyond what I could plan now. A list of potential and gorgeous paddle destinations can be long. Patagonia, the Northwest Passage, some Pacific Islands… The question is, how much will the desire for further journeys and adventures be? I just don’t know yet.
What do you do when not kayaking?
I enjoy working on my projects in Lithuania and Spain, trying to establish permaculture and create a nature-oriented way of life. I also love my enduro motorcycle and do paragliding, but haven’t had much time to practice lately.
Is there any place or country on your route which you would consider the most beautiful?
This is probably the most-asked question from people I have met on my trip, and it is hard to answer. It’s funny because I tend to name the country the asking person is coming from. And indeed, all regions have beautiful places, and it would be unfair to select. To make a list of all the areas which I would consider gorgeous wouldn’t make sense here, but if I had to name only a few, it would be Greece, where I had a gorgeous time all the way through. The combination of landscape, jumping from island to island, people and hospitality, climate and overall experience comes very close to perfect. And the incredible Archipelago of Finland, Åland, and Sweden definitely do not deserve a second place.
Quickfire questions:
If you could paddle with anyone in the world, dead or alive, who would it be?
Interesting, well, I don’t know. There was another guy, Jiri, from the Czech Republic, who also intended to circumnavigate Europe at the same time I did, but unfortunately gave up or had other plans. We almost met in Italy after I crossed from Greece; he arrived a couple of days later at the same spot where I had camped, from the Adriatic Sea. I think about him often, but I hardly have any contact with him anymore. I wish he hadn’t stopped. It would have been great to paddle together. Yes, this would be the person.
If your kayak had a name, what would it be?
My kayak actually has a name because, in Germany, it’s the law to have one. NOATUN. I named it after the home or castle of the god of the seas, Njördr, in Nordic mythology.
What’s the strangest thing you’ve seen floating in the water?
A huge, really huge inflatable toy in the middle of my crossing from Greece to Italy. I almost wanted to catch it and take it with me, but then I thought, someone in Africa would have a use for it.
If you could only paddle to the beat of one musical track, what track would you choose?
I never listen to music while paddling, but in my camp, with a beer or a glass of wine, I love listening to music. Voyage, Voyage from Desireless just comes into my mind, but there are so many good songs… from the 80s!
What essential gear do you always bring?
Meanwhile, and it was a little different at the beginning, all my gear is quite essential. I just can not afford to bring something I don’t really need. All for camping, making meals, very few clothes, and of course, what’s necessary for paddling. One paddle, the cag deck I am wearing. My GPS with inReach, a radio, my cellphone and an action cam. This is it. And lots of food, often for two weeks, because I don’t like to go to the supermarket more than necessary.
If your canoe could talk, what would it say about your paddling skills?
Improvable! No, well, I don’t know, I think it would say that I improved very well over these years. Starting with no experience and paddle technique at all, to a pretty good technique and no fear of new challenges. That would just sound right…
What’s your most unusual kayaking ritual or superstition?
Well, yeah, this might be a little bit embarrassing, but Noatun has carried me for so many thousands of kilometres, and after a crossing or a nice paddle day, I give it a pat and some words to say thank you!
What’s the ultimate kayaking superpower you wish you had?
Better rolling and surfing. Yes, I know, you heard it now, and it’s embarrassing, and I usually don’t talk about this much when I meet other kayakers. But I hate it when my head gets underwater. I just can not get rid of this feeling. I know that I would have more fun and be more relaxed about going to shore and going out in stronger winds, but I am not sure if I will ever learn it properly.
There was an incident on the west coast of France where a two-metre breaking and tube-forming wave hit me. I lost my paddle, almost drowned because I could not exit the boat fast enough, and I also lost my kayak because the rope around my kayak broke. Thankfully, some people on the beach helped me get in and saved the paddle and the kayak. This knocked my confidence quite a bit.
If you could only speak in kayak-related puns for a day, what’s your best one? Any final shout-outs?
I just hope I have the mental and physical strength to navigate these upcoming challenges safely. Easy paddling is over now. But how far would I have come if I hadn’t dealt with so many before?
Huge thanks, Urban, for all of your help on this and for taking time out of your busy schedule – we really appreciate it.
