Words & photos:
Nicole Jackson –
Outdoor Learning
Teacher at The
Keystone Academy
Nicole Jackson
Chasing the mid-Winter sun
And four other Reasons to go Winter Canoeing
Sun With limited light available each day, our expedition goals become much more simplified than our mid-summer expedition jaunts, which can very quickly become fleeting as we chase our tails – chasing kilometres, rapids and over-exerting ourselves with lengthy portaging and a ‘pushing-on’ mindset.
1. Winter is dark, and it’s cold
It’s more consequential – but it’s simple.
Naturally, winter is a time of preservation. We, too, must preserve. We know that we can’t run any rapids that may be too consequential. One swim in freezing temperatures, as opposed to summertime, is the difference between being damp and uncomfortable at relatively comfortable temperatures to being near-hypothermic, needing to cut a multi-day trip to an immediate halt.
At camp, we rise before sunrise, aiming to drink our coffee and eat breakfast as we watch the sunrise; our canoe is nearly fully packed and primed, eager for an early(ish) start for a short day, continuing to chase the sun.
Chasing the sun can feel like a game in winter. It’s utterly illusive. The sun was nearly always lurking behind the mountains on this particular Loch Shiel trip. If and when it ever did show itself, it felt like basking in pure shimmering gold – its absence making our hearts grow stronger for summertime warmth!
2. The Art of Not Suffering
Go big or go home.
Thanks to a spacious canoe, a winter paddling trip can be cosy, comfortable, and potentially even luxurious! Due to ample space, we pack five-season sleeping bags, many coats, gloves, spare gloves, and more gloves, thick camp socks, extra food, a minibar, etc.
After some bushcraft grafting with a tarp, an axe, and a saw, a woodland living room was crafted. Copious amounts of freshly split dry wood ignited a roaring fire. The heat was contained by the tarp behind and over us, keeping the snow from beating down on us and our fire and keeping everything dry. It was absolutely snug and probably less drafty than sitting at home.
Beside us, nestled in the snow, we have a minibar: beer, G&T and espresso martinis in cans.
3. Wintry Wildlife in Abundance
Becoming loony about wild loons.
By day two of our Loch Shiel wintry canoe trip, we had begun our journey down the river and north to the sea. Here, the wildlife was in abundance.
Along Loch Shiel was a plentitude of grazing deer. When scouting out our first campsite after our first day, we looked up above our desired campsite to see two regal eagles perched above a silver birch tree. Seeing not one but two eagles in the highlands was a magnificent and true gift. It is a spectacular sight that seems familiar in the Canadian wilderness but rare and exciting for our eyes here in the UK.
On day two, we reached Loch Moidart. As we paddled to the sea, we were stunned to see curlews, sea otters, and wild loons (great northern divers). We also saw lots of inquisitive seals.
Despite their rarity, we were unmistaken by the eerie calls of the wild loons. These migratory birds breed in the Northern Hemisphere, such as North America, Greenland and Iceland. Seeing them in Scotland was news to us and a wonderful surprise, accompanying them, paddling at sea. Again, yet another fantastic reason to get out despite sub-zero temperatures.
4. It’s Utterly Beautiful
Paddling the classic Loch Shiel canoe trip in the dark depths of winter did not disappoint.
Day two’s evening campsite was on the fort island of Eilean Nan Gabhar. Shrouded in sea wildlife and views of mountains draped in hazy hues of pink clouds. The evening was exquisitely cold. It was time to rest after some shooting star glimpses and a fire pot meal.
It was dark and freezing by 18:00. The beauty of less light and cooler temperatures meant we could embrace more sleep than usual, hibernating in our tent from early evening till dawn.
On day three, we paddled 8km to the A380 to get off the water and hitch a lift back to get the car for a shuttle. This trip was an extra special one for us from start to finish.
This highland to the sea trip, wrapped in the glistening wonder that only a wintry landscape can offer, was made effortlessly comfortable and cosy by the delights of our humble craft, the canoe.
A little more about this trip:
This canoe trip started from Glenfinnan. We were able to put on with ease at the Glenfinnan car park, which has access from the River Finnan to the Loch. After a day’s paddling, our camp spot was not far from St. Finan’s Chapel Island (another area of significant interest!).
On day two, we first paddled west to Acharacle and then along the River Shiel. Along the Shiel, there were two main rapids to note. The first one was at the River Shiel Old Bridge. We got out here to check the rapid out. It was on a tight bend, with the river bending sharply to the left. Once scouted out, we could see it was a runnable Grade 1.
Before joining the sea at Moidart, there is a complicated section of rapids. Unfortunately, the sea level was too low to run the main line. Instead, we paddled down half of the middle line, which was made possible by high river levels, stopping to make a quick portage over the gorse.
From then onwards, conditions were favourable to hug along the coastline heading through the South Channel. The views from the sea of the snowy Isle of Skye were phenomenal.
On day two, we camped at the Eilian nan Gobhar. We were slightly reluctant to camp offshore because any overnight change in weather would make returning tricky, as we experienced in Loften in August 2024 (a story for another time). It was a genuinely magical camp spot: loons, stars, and the lap of the ocean.
On day three, we paddled northeast along Loch Ailort. Our take-out was at Camas Driseach. From here, Chris hitch-hiked to the car park at Glenfinnan whilst I packed up and moved kit around.
Nicole and Chris
Nicole is a teacher of outdoor learning working at an SEN school in Shrewsbury, while Chris is Head of Centre at Bryntysilio Outdoor Education Centre in Llangollen. They share their lives with Toby, the child, and Piper, the cat.
Thank you to Palm Equipment for keeping us warm and dry!
