By Duncan Riddle
Cliffs, caves and crystal clear water
Cap de San Antoni is beautiful! It’s a protected Marine Reserve on the Spanish Mediterranean coast midway between Valencia and Alicante. It is a little jewel of rugged coastline with towering limestone and sandstone cliffs and weirdly contorted rock formations that are only accessible by boat – of which there are few due to the marine conservation regulations.
Cap de San Antoni:
A Jewel on the Mediterranean Coast of Spain
Jutting out between the busy towns and sea ports of Dénia and Xàbia (aka Jávea) you’d think that it would be a day trippers paradise, however, I have paddled here off season on many occasions and never seen another sea kayak or indeed another person once you’re beyond the first and only sea cave that’s accessible by foot from Dénia. I expect it’s significantly busier in peak holiday season but would still be a beautiful place to visit. The marine reservation extends to the waters around the cape up to 20 metres in depth and prohibits fishing, spear diving, anchoring and limits boat speed to a slow pootle. In addition, there is nowhere easy to beach and the combination of all these factors essentially keeps power and sailboats out of the protected area.
The reserve spans the transition zone between the lower coastal sand banks of the Valencian Gulf and the sheer cliffs of the Montgo Massif as it meets the sea. The predominant orientation is N-NE and the eroded features of the cliffs reflect the impact of the prevailing wind and swell from the same quadrant. Established in 1993 due its unique biodiversity of flora and fauna the reserve is home to many of the species found throughout the whole of the Mediterranean. For an area sandwiched between two busy seaports, I’ve found it remarkably remote, awe inspiring and quite mystical.
Launching
There are various roadside parking and launch options from either Xàbia or Dénia but my favourite is a little protected slipway and cove in Les Rotes just to the east of the port of Dénia. The easiest way to find it is to aim for the sea front restaurant l’eriçó and you’ll see the parking and a small slipway in front of you. There are even two parking spots reserved solely for cars with watercraft. Parking is generally no problem, however, at weekends the restaurant gets busy at lunchtimes and parking is at more of a premium.
There’s a good chance that the local ranger will swing by on his scooter, initially to tell you not to fish but once you get chatting you’ll get a very friendly reception and any up to date sightings of whales, dolphins and sea turtles. He’ll also let you know the best spots to keep an eye open for ospreys, booted eagles and peregrine falcons. The marine reserve really appreciate hearing of any sightings that you make during your trip, ask for one of the leaflets “Dénia – Paradise of Biodiversity” which has contact details in it.
Before you Set Off
There are no issues with tides or currents however the Balearic Ferries can throw a large send into the coves so stay alert even if the conditions seem completely benign. The first time I stopped in a small cove for some lunch I had to leap and grab my kayak as it was suddenly sucked from high and dry off the shelf I’d beached it on! Under some conditions landing might be anywhere from tricky to unwise so have food and drink within reach in case your pit stops are afloat. Winds can be fun too, often very light in the morning and kicking up in the afternoon, not fierce, however, offshore winds coming down off the cliffs can throw up vicious little gusts.
From midday the base of the cliffs will be in shade and the temperature transition from full sun to full shade can be quite dramatic so it’s worth having an extra outer layer in easy reach.
Out and back
From the launch site it’s a straightforward paddle to the south east, firstly along the low lying rocky shoreline of Les Rotes, a rocky shelf that is a protected reserve in it’s own right due to its unusual formation and the rare plant species that inhabit it. Watch the depth as you cross the rocky points, it gets very shallow and if there’s any swell you might touch down in the trough. Paddle on past a couple more restaurants, and then the road terminates by some houses built precariously over vast sea caves that completely undermine them – quite a sight. The views further inland of the grey terraced mountains of the ‘Marina Alta’ make a spectacular backdrop to the adjacent red and white sea cliffs.
Torre del Gerro
Looking up you’ll see a 16th century watchtower, the ‘Torre del Gerro’, a little beyond this you’ll arrive at the first of the sea caves, it’s a real beauty, the Cova Tallada.
At weekends there may be hikers who’ve arrived by a tortuous coastal path but at other times you’ll probably have it all to yourself and what a wonder it is. Carved out of red sandstone it’s a cavernous space with adjacent rock pools. In fact the cave was mined and new chambers created many years ago when it was quarried for building material for Dénia. Evidence of the drilling and cutting can still be seen on the rock face in the photo. The cave is perfectly protected from any swell by a carved out rock band that runs across the entrance. It has many large passages (take a torch if you plan to explore on foot). The still waters are intense blue and crystal clear and it’s a beautifully tranquil spot to sit in and drift around.
extraordinary features
When you can tear yourself away from the Cova Tollada, the coastline goes from one extraordinary feature to another. At sea level there are nooks and crannies, more sea caves, sheltered bays and towering rock pinnacles. Equally impressive are the contorted rock formations and undermined cliffs. The scale is difficult to explain but the hollowing of the cliffs in some areas extends for several hundred feet, as if removed with a giant ice cream scoop. Allied with incredibly unstable looking overhangs it can feel quite intimidating. In some places the geology looks like it’s a badly conglomerated mortar mix that’s been discarded for being too crumbly. Some of the sea caves look so precarious, just a loose jumble of rock and stone, I tend not to hang around in these for too long!
The cliffs rise straight up to heights in excess of 160 metres and are marked with caves and tunnels all the way to the top; it really is an extraordinary sight. The gulls and cormorants that inhabit the cliffs aren’t used to visitors on their patch and get quite agitated at the intrusion. Look down and you’ll see their lunch swimming around and if you’re lucky you might see a dolphin chasing a desperate fish.
Cap de San Antoni lighthouse
Two miles after leaving Cova Tollada you round a point and on the cliff top in front you’ll see radio masts and the Cap de San Antoni lighthouse. The lighthouse was formerly a watchtower of the ‘Ermita de San Antonio’, a 14th century sanctuary after which the Cape is named. The views from the lighthouse (accessible by road) are stunning and considered amongst the finest on the Valencian coastline.
In the bay beneath the lighthouse there are several small caves and a slightly larger one with jagged rock teeth hanging vertically over the entrance. It feels like paddling through a set of giant jaws and makes the dark, low ceiling cave even spookier than normal. Inside, the swell produces church organ bass notes as air is squeezed through a variety of flumes and funnels.
By this time you’ll have paddled about four miles and as you round the imposing bluff beneath the lighthouse you’ll bring the sweep of the bay of Xàbia into view and in the distance the cliffs of Cap de La Nau, This is another exceptionally beautiful rocky headland with it’s own famous cave, The Cova dels Orguens. The entire cape is worth a trip all to itself but expect the odd boat as it doesn’t have the restrictions of Cap San Antoni.
If you’re ready for refreshments it’s a about a mile to the beach and the cafés and bars in the bustling streets adjacent to Xàbia port. Alternatively, if civilization is too much of an intrusion, turn round, head back and notice all the things you didn’t see on the way out!
