By Scott Edwards
Buy your second boat first
Pick a real paddle shop and take their advice. It will be money and time well spent!
As I have watched and participated in the growth of Paddler Magazine, I have been taken on a virtual trip around the globe and seen some of the finest kayaking. With this in mind, I spoke with Peter about writing something for someone who is not going to kayak Viet Nam anytime soon or try a first descent of world-class WW waterfalls. I am writing this for someone who may not even have their first kayak yet! I have seen so many people buy their first boat and have their mind-filled delusions of grandeur, only to have them dashed because the boat of their dreams has, in short order, become inadequate to match their rapidly growing skill set.
Unless your plan, going in is to float around the lake at the summer place, and that’s it, it is probably a good idea to avoid the ‘big box store’ kayaks that are as suited to being a planter as a kayak. I recommend you look for a handful of things when buying your first kayak; most of them will not be found on kayaks from the ‘Super Outdoor Store’. Now, mind you, getting the ‘right’ kayak is going to cost you more, but it’s still less than buying the ‘wrong’ kayak and then having to go out and get the ‘right’ one a year or so later (the average I’ve experienced).
Now, you first have to decide what kind of kayaking you will do the most. If you try your hand at white water kayaking, your needs will be different than someone going sea kayaking. What I am going to discuss is a good ‘all around’ kayak affording the paddler a plethora of paddling opportunities.
All-round, multi-purpose kayak
Having one kayak to do everything well is tough, so kayakers who paddle diverse types of water have more than one kayak. For instance, in my area, we have a lot of small, very twisty creeks that wind through the woods. Trying to wrestle a 17’ sea kayak down these rivers is near impossible while taking one of the hybrid white water boats, with a skeg and hatch across an open bay is going to be exhausting, so, without splitting hairs too finely, I’m going to describe a good all-round, multi-purpose kayak.
A good starting point is the length of the kayak, and 12’ is about the shortest you want to consider. Shorter will put you at a disadvantage when keeping up with whomever you are paddling with. Even though you can probably throw it in the back of the minivan with no problem, move up to at least a twelve-foot (3.65m) kayak, and you’ll be glad you did.
An advantage of going with a longer boat and a major safety feature is that most 12’ or more kayaks will have a front bulkhead behind the foot pegs. This helps keep your kayak afloat in the event of a capsize by only allowing the cockpit area to fill with water.
Having two bulkheads, one in front and one behind your seat, is all but necessary if you are in most any moving water. It also increases the storage space by allowing you to have (reasonably) dry storage both fore and aft. Also, in the event of a capsize, a front bulkhead will prevent your kayak from performing a ‘Cleopatra’s Needle’, where the front of the kayak sinks and the aft endpoints almost straight up. If the kayak you are considering does not offer a front bulkhead, take heart! There are inflatable float bags that can be put into the kayak to displace water in the event you happen to capsize. All things considered, fore and aft bulkheads are a very sound idea.
The fear of a smaller cockpit
In talking with folks looking at kayaks, one of the first things to jump out is the fear of a smaller cockpit. People are drawn to recreational boats’ voluminous, wide-open cockpits because they fear they will become trapped. First and foremost, anyone going to kayak needs to learn how to do a wet exit as soon as possible. You’re going to dump someday. It’s a reality. The more you kayak, the more likely you are to tip over. There are only two kinds of kayakers: those who have capsize and those who are going to. And if you are wearing a personal floatation device, it will pop you out of your seat like a cork!
So, that’s part one of why you want to go with a real cockpit. The other is if your cockpit is huge and you are paddling, and a wave or wake comes over the bow of your kayak, you’ll have more water in your kayak than you would ever want! A kayak full of water is very unstable and very difficult to paddle. The smaller the opening, the less water will get in your kayak, making it difficult to manoeuvre to a safe place to dump or pump out your boat. You are safer in a kayak that ‘you wear’ or at least truly fits you than one that is like a bathtub.
Another feature you want to find on a kayak is more than a few elastic ‘bungee’ lines. Bungees are suitable for holding a limited amount of gear to the deck of your kayak. However, they are not replacements for ‘hard lines’ or ‘perimeter deck lines’. These lines trace the outline of your kayak and do not stretch. You will grab these lines to help pull you back into your kayak should you happen to fall out. If you are in the water and all you have are bungees, stop and think what will happen. They will stretch, and you will return to the water you were trying hard to escape. A combination of bungees and hard lines is how a kayak should be outfitted to serve you in almost any situation. One word of caution about bungees: people tend to put too much on top of their kayak while neglecting to put stuff in their kayak.
Top-heavy
Loading too much on the top of your kayak leads to trim (how your kayak sits in the water) issues and your kayak being top-heavy; guess what top-heavy kayaks tend to do? That’s right; they tend to want to capsize, which is something you want to avoid. I also try to keep my back deck clear, as if I need to re-enter my kayak, it will be from the back deck, not the front.
As you consider your kayak choice, ensure you can at least sit in it! Take it for a test drive, paddle! Many kayak dealers are located on or very near a body of water, so you can see how the boat feels in the water. Beyond that, make sure it’s comfortable.
You’ll spend hours in your kayak; you might as well be comfy. This is also where you find out how the kayak ‘fits’ you. If it’s equipped with thigh braces, do you make contact with them in the correct spots? If they do not, are they adjustable? Does it have a seat back or back band, and what is your preference? How do the foot braces feel? Explore all aspects of fit and feel, and have the person helping you assist in making sure the kayak is set up for you. Many kayaks have myriad adjustments for your comfort in the cockpit; fine-tune them to fit you.
An often overlooked feature on a kayak is the ‘handles’ on the ends. Many people are drawn to the luggage-type handles that offer the most comfortable way to carry your kayak to the water. You see, not only are the ‘handles’ for transporting your kayak to the water, but they are also what you will use to hang onto your kayak if you should find yourself in the water. While they may not be as comfortable to carry, the ‘T’ shaped toggles on either end are easy to grab hold of and, most importantly, to let go of! The luggage-type handle can trap your hand and take you wherever it’s going. I will always opt towards something safer rather than ‘more convenient’.
There is one more factor to this equation, and it is usually not considered until after the kayak has been picked out, or sometimes it is a ‘throw-in’ to complete the sale. And, I bet by now, you know what I will say: it’s your paddle. This cannot be an afterthought; this must be an integral part of your decision-making process for your kayaking. The variety of paddles available is almost endless, ranging from aluminium shafts and plastic blades to ultra-light carbon fibre models and Greenland blades and ‘Euro’ blades. All of this makes your decision-making process all the more confusing. Add to that the question, are you a low-angle or high-angle paddler?
A knowledgeable kayak consultant
This is where you need the assistance of a knowledgeable kayak consultant. They are invaluable in helping you pick out the right paddle for your physical size, which compliments your kayak. One of the primary considerations for most people is the paddle’s weight. While it may only be ounces on the shelf, multiply them by how many paddle strokes you make on a day’s paddle. The difference increases exponentially. While you may not be inclined to go for one of the high-end, ultra-light space material paddles, please do not go low-end to save a buck. After your first paddle or two, you will be back in the very same place, looking for something that doesn’t start to feel like you’re lifting weights after a couple of hours.
I hear you saying, “That’s going to add up to a lot more money very quickly”. And you’re right. That being said, it is less than doing it twice. Get the gear you outgrow quickly. The second purchase added to the first is going to be substantially more than if you made the investment in a reputable paddle shop that is looking to build a long-term relationship by recommending quality products than a ‘big box’ store which is just looking to get you in, ring you up and send you on your way. Not only that, but by making an investment as opposed to just a purchase, you are also making that same investment in your safety (speaking of safety, you’ll also need a personal flotation device or PFD, but that’s a topic for another article).
Pick a real paddle shop and take their advice
This is a lot to consider, and it should be; kayaking can be a lifetime sport to be enjoyed in countless ways. Over the years, I have encountered far too many who gave up on kayaking because they quickly became frustrated by the limitations of their equipment. It bears repeating: if you want to float around the lake at your summer home (or things of that nature), you’re probably not even reading this. However, if you want to grow in your kayaking and explore the wonders and beauty only accessible by kayak, do your homework. Talk to people, pick a real paddle shop and take their advice. It will be money and time well spent!
