Interview: Peter Tranter

Photos: Ray Goodwin,
Ray Mears,
Colin Skeath,
David Bain
and Axel Schoevers

With over 30 years experience and a canoeing CV to match, Ray is perhaps the most established open canoeist in the UK. A British Canoe Union Level 5 Coach in Canoe, Inland Kayak, and Sea, Ray was the first coach to be assessed to Level 5 in three disciplines. To reflect his achievements, in the 2019 New Year’s Honours List, Ray was awarded an MBE for his services to canoeing. However, you may be surprised to read that Ray’s career in the outdoors didn’t start on the water. Read on…

An interview with… Ray Goodwin MBE
The Godfather of British canoeing

The first and most obvious question is how did you start out in what is a very successful career in paddling?
The start was in fact in climbing and walking. I was at teacher training college and managed to get a summer job working for the YHA on mountaincraft courses. So six days a week I was on the mountains of Snowdonia – a great introduction to instructing. While still at college I got my Mountain Leader Award and when I finished college in 1974, I went straight into working in an outdoor centre. Then a school gave me a job running outdoor activities along with a pretty full classroom commitment. Nearly all of that was rock climbing and mountain work. Then I took a year off to travel and go climbing with some great adventures in Kenya, the Sudan and Morocco.

At the end of that I had applied to join the British Antarctic Survey as a field assistant, got an interview but didn’t get the job, so I went back to working in an outdoor centre. Everyone there was a real activist and I was getting lots of climbing in but as the autumn arrived along with wet weather (yep we used to have water in the rivers) they started dragging me out kayaking and the following year I got into sea kayaking as well. My initial influences were Roger Ward on the rivers and Bob Llewellyn on the sea. I was in my mid-thirties when Loel Collins came to work in the centre and in between paddling kayaks he introduced me to the joy of canoes. Lots of adventures, swims and straight out laughter – the canoe had got its hook into me. Then trips with Andy Hall in Scotland, including one with an outrageous portage out of Loch Morar and up to Loch Quoich. The stage was then set for my circumnavigation of Wales with Robert Egelstaff back in 1992.

What canoe and equipment are you using?
I have a great relationship with Venture Canoes and was involved in the development of their new river boat the Afon. For harder rivers I paddle the Afon and on more touring type stuff and on the sea I use their Prospector. Freebird supply me with paddles and again I have helped in the development of a couple of theirs. Finally, I am using NRS gear for everything from drysuit, waterproof bags through to my thermals.

You’re best known for your canoeing but you do also use a double blade for your exploits too – what have been those highlights?
Sea kayaking: so much on the west coast of Scotland with years of guiding parties up there. I love Mull. Doing the entire coast of Wales when I guided it back in 2010 as part of a circumnavigation. Circumnavigating Anglesey in a single 22-hour push: the scariest bits, in the dark, being hit in the chest by a fish! Paddling the Irish Sea in a tandem sea kayak with Terry Storry.

White water kayak: lots of exploring back in the 80s before guide books started coming out. Running Swallow Falls not long after the first descent. Many paddles in the Alps, the Grand Canyon as well as trip on the Tamba Kosi and Sun Kosi in Nepal.

Do you have an eco-message for fellow paddlers?
Leave the place better than you found it. So much rubbish now that I make a habit of carrying a bag on my local river.

I think the hard questions are yet to come for most of us. We have accepted our ability to travel and fly about the world and it is now coming the time to question that.

What’s the most enjoyable encounter with wildlife that you’ve had whilst paddling?
I have been quite spoilt with so much on land and sea. Walking out of the mist on a Scottish mountain to find myself almost nose to nose with a stag. We both froze before each of us doing a quick retreat. On the sea to have a basking shark in the same small tide race but heading the opposite way within inches of my boat or to have a minke whale blow within a short distance from me (very fishy breath). Seeing a grizzly bear from close quarters whilst on a narrow part of a river: six paddlers, six cameras and not a photo taken. Some very quiet but efficient paddling. We did have elephants at a campsite in Kenya but that doesn’t count as I slept through that!

How does open canoeing above all give you satisfaction?
It’s a dual thing. You have the joy of expeditioning in a craft built for it, whether that be on a long trip in Canada or paddling the Spey or any other of the great trips in Scotland. Then there is the joy of movement whether training on flat water or dancing down a rapid using the water to make the moves.

If you could capture just one ‘feel good’ moment in your time paddling – which would it be and why?
Finishing a nine-day wilderness trip with my daughter in Algonquin. I was determined to get her first big expedition done in Canada and to share it with Maya. Getting older I am determined not to put things off but to get on and do them. There will come a day when I can’t do it, not here yet, but I am not waiting around.

Also I would highlight those times when I have been well and truly in the zone. I have had this happen rock climbing and in some of the hardest rapids I have paddled. Time slows and the mind seems to step aside from the body. It is almost like watching yourself climb/paddle. A wonderful Zen like state.

When preparing for a multi-day expedition in challenging conditions – what are the qualities you look for in a fellow team mate canoeist?
Someone who is going to share the ethos of a trip. That we are agreed on the objectives and style we are going to do it in. Anything else and it leaves too many rub points when the going gets tough. On hard trips we even have identical plates so that food can be dished up equally.

Do you have any favourite conditions for paddling or are you happy with whatever Mother Nature bowls your way on the day?
I like big water and sunshine but so often it is the ‘bad’ weather days that leave the biggest memories. Then there are those memorable mirror calm mornings with the sun burning through mist, those demand a quick launch.

Do you prefer flat water or white water and why?
Both. There is a real joy to carving through mirror calm waters and anyway some of the flat water trips I have done have been anything else but flat. I find a real joy in paddling well on white water trying to get that magical interaction of boat, paddle and water: it becomes a dance.

Solo or tandem?
With solo and tandem I love both. I am very lucky in that I have a great bow paddler in my partner Lina, mind I think Maya is aiming to replace her.

Of the many canoeing/ bushcraft expeditions you’ve undertaken, which has been the toughest and why?
The circumnavigation of Wales, in canoe, with Robert Egelstaff. It was relentless and at times right out there. We did it some 26 years ago and it has never been repeated. Physically and mentally it was hard day after day. We nearly got caught out on a 21-mile open crossing at the top of Cardigan Bay. The forecast was wrong and a headwind of force 5 sprang up in the later part of the crossing. We were down to a mile an hour and taking on water even with a full spraydeck. We made it to the Tudwal Isles but were busted. The next day we only did five miles due to conditions. Fortunately the winds dropped after that for the final part of the trip.

What’s the one favourite piece of camping kit you couldn’t do without?
A good tarp. It just makes my life comfortable whether I am sleeping in a tent or not.

Have you ever been scared out there and by what?
My big swim on the Bloodvein in monstrous water. Lina and I were paddling well and so I made a dubious decision to run a line into an eddy on the right. I got the entrance wrong and got shoved left and into the main rapid. The swim was inevitable so it was just a case of keeping going as long as possible. We got almost to the end and a massive boil and fold just sucked us straight down boat and all. I lost contact with the boat and went so deep it went dark on me. I didn’t think I would come up in time. Eventually it lightened and I could see the bubbles in the water above me. Swimming up for all I was worth I was only thinking of buying a bigger buoyancy aid. Eventually I broke the surface for the first time and managed a gulp of air. It became a more ‘normal’ swim after that. Once all was sorted Lina offered to go up for a second go. I declined most forcefully.

Anything left on the bucket list?
Lots and the list is getting longer although I know my time is becoming limited. I want to get another Canada trip done with Maya. I have also got my eyes on a trip on the Wind River up in the NW of Canada.

What projects are you currently working on?
Got a whole series of videos to edit for my YouTube channel and I want to put much more effort into that in the next year. Also I am planning on doing a book of stories: some paddling but also covering my climbing days. Cherry picking the most interesting things.

What do you do when not paddling?
Spending time with my family and doing everything from theatre and dance shows to cycling and walking. I do enjoy pottering in our garden.

I’m a paddler and going on a trip, where would you recommend?
If you are canoe paddler then you have just got to get yourself out to Canada. The scope is almost endless and there is everything from long flat water trips to full on white water expeditions. In the UK the River Spey for all of its changes throughout its length and those last few miles to the sea are unique.

Are there any issue that stops you sleeping at night?
When I have too many ideas floating around my head. But in reality, I sleep pretty well most of the time other than the old man thing of needing a pee at three in the morning.

You look a very happy and contented man – what’s the secret to your good feeling?
Ah I can manage to fool most of the people… But in truth, family, a place I love living and success, which overcame the insecurities of my youthful days.

How has being an ‘older’ dad influenced you?
Maya was a bit of a surprise; I was 57 when she was born. When she was just seven weeks old I set off on my second circumnavigation of Wales (not as a result of her being born I can assure you). It was already booked in as a guided trip leading staff from the Urdd centre at Glan-llyn. By then I had already taken on Maya on her first little paddle on a little local lake; she didn’t take much notice I am sorry to say. My own father died when I was just 11 years old and this has driven me to share some of my world with her, to create those experiences and memories. We have paddled in a wide variety of places but the highlights have been four days on the Spey and, when she was seven, a ten-day wilderness trip in Algonquin. This year we will be off to the Ardeche. It has put a bit of fire behind me to get things done and not put them off to another year.

Was your big day out at Bucks House everything you dreamed of?
Better. Maya, Lina and myself all went down to Buckingham Palace on the 13th February. I was wearing a morning suit, this was a once in a lifetime moment so I thought I would go the whole hog. At the Palace guests and recipients are separated. We were gathered in a gallery to the side of the ballroom where the presentation was to be made. Great to chat to fellow recipients who were the most amazing bunch and it felt humbling to be amongst them. I got to talk to the Deputy Master of Trinity House and compare notes on lighthouses, to assorted Olympians, those from the arts as well as people in medical research or working with charities. At one point I was chatting to two ladies and there was a Rembrandt directly behind them.

In due course I was lined up at the door to the ballroom to see Maya and Lina seated directly across from me. I had been joking with Maya about me looking like a slightly rotund penguin. I couldn’t resist. My arms went down to side with hands pointing out horizontally I did a little penguin waddle for my daughter: she went into fits of giggles. Fortunately, no one else in the room appeared to notice. Then it was forward to be presented with my award by Princess Anne; her attention was totally on each of us in our turn as she chatted and made the awards.

The next morning, I was in Aldi in Llangollen. Part way around the supermarket I just stopped dead, took a breath and looked around. It all seemed surreal to go from the Palace one morning to supermarket shopping the next. Such are the rich contrasts of life.

Quickies

If you could paddle with anyone in the world dead or alive who would it be?
Bill Mason.

Pick two celebrities to be your parents.
I cannot imagine anybody other than my mum as my parent, my dad died when I was eleven. She was full of stories and jokes, which so influence me to this day.

Which one sportsman or woman has inspired you?
Hermann Buhl the Austrian Mountaineer. I read his book, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage so many times I could quote bits of it. As a paddler and writer it has to be Bill Mason. His books and films have been an inspiration and benchmark.

Are you a bathroom/shower singer and if so what do you sing?
No! Even I don’t enjoy my singing.

Favourite film?
Blade Runner. I love the ending with Roy’s monologue on how his memories, “Will be lost in time, like tears in rain.” Mind I do like watching Guardians of the Galaxy with Maya, love the humour and we can quote several parts of it to each other.

Cats or dogs?
Dogs and our Billie Bonkers has done so much canoeing with me.

Facebook or Twitter?
Facebook

An ideal night out for you is?
Good company and a great meal.

What one luxury item would you take with you on a desert island?
My Kindle along with a solar charger. So easy to lose myself in a good book.

What’s in your fridge right now?
Very little as Lina and Maya are away and I am off to the Yukon.

If we came to your house for dinner, what would you prepare for us?
Indian food. If I thought highly enough of you, I would marinate a leg of lamb in yogurt and spices and then roast it. Several sides along with fresh chapatis prepared by Maya and myself.

Who are your canoeing buddies?
Colin and Katrina Skeath. Paul Kirtley and of course my partner Lina Patel.

What’s the most boring question you are asked?
Is this your granddaughter referring to my daughter Maya. As an older dad I knew it was inevitable and truth be told I find it more amusing than boring.

Finally, any shout outs?
Yep. These are the folk that so influenced me along the way: Roger Ward, Bob Llewellyn, Loel Collins, Stuart Bell, Rob Egelstaff, Ray Mears and Paul Kirtley.