Interview by
Peter Tranter
Laura was the expedition leader for the world first in successfully paddling the entire Essequibo River, Guyana from source to sea. Laura was one of the trio comprised of Ness Knight and Pip Stewart who completed the 1,000km expedition in 72 gruelling days. The Paddler magazine met up with Laura for an interview to recount this remarkable feat.
More information:
https://theessequibo.org
Running the Essequibo
Before we start – just let our readers know a little about yourself, background, etc.
I may be best known for cycling 7,000km unsupported across South America without touching any money. I’ve has also sailed across the Atlantic and spent four years travelling the world. In 2017, I completed a more personal challenge – becoming a mum for the first time to baby Ranulph in June. “I had just had a baby and wanted to show that a mother and father are both capable of caring for their baby whilst staying true to who they are. We both owe a lot to expeditions so by sharing parental responsibilities we can both continue to follow our dreams and keep adventuring. Whilst I was away, it was Ed’s duty – and he really looked forward to it!”
When did you first start kayaking?
We all started kayaking at the same time, about six months prior to our expedition leave date!
So when and why did the idea of paddling the Essequibo first come to mind?
So the idea was originally mine, just after I had Ran (Laura’s son), I was talking to Ed (Laura’s husband) about expeditions and he told me about the expedition he did the logistics for in Guyana: Lost Land of the Jaguar with Steve Backshall. He painted a wonderful image of this virgin jungle with Jaguars, monkeys, and all sorts of animals! And then he said, “Can you believe the Essequibo has never been descended?” And then the idea pinged into my head!
What type of training did you do for the expedition?
We focused mainly on our water reading skills, we knew we would never perfect our skills enough to be competent in all grades of water, so with the help of the Leicester Outdoor Pursuit Centre and David Bain from NRS, we managed to get our water reading level high enough that we had the confidence in ourselves to correctly analyse whether we were capable or not of running different rapids.
Have you all paddled together before on expeditions?
Only on our training trips!
What were the main objectives for the expedition?
There were so many main objectives, but to name a couple, we tried to highlight sustainability and how to move through an environment so its preserved for the next person. We attempted to highlight the effects of mining on the environment and how it’s not a sustainable income. We also tried to highlight how working as a team is vitally important and lastly I tried to highlight equal parenting. My husband stayed at home looking after our young son whilst I followed my dreams, Ran and Ed came out to visit me after six weeks and it was so magical. My son is so confident, happy and secure! And that just proves to me that, for us, we are living the right life.
You have to travel light in such circumstances, what type of kit did you use?
On this occasion we used DD hammocks and tarps as they are the go to kit in the jungle. There isn’t a specific type of kit we use, it’s all very individual to the person. And it’s basically, “Can I do without this?” I didn’t take a towel because I’m very happy putting on wet clothes on expedition but Ness and Pip did take a towel because for them, the weight of the towel is worth carrying to dry themselves. It’s all individual
Some people must have said you’re crazy to take on the expedition, particularly in the light of the tragic death of Emma Kelty only a few months beforehand. What was your response?
What happened to Emma was extremely tragic. We spoke to a lot of safety experts to make sure we knew as many ways as possible to stay safe. We travelled in a group of 5-10 people, with 2-5 local guides at all times so they we were fully informed of any particularly dangerous areas.
What were the main dangers?
Jaguar, snakes, spiders, scorpions and caiman. Thankfully these are all quite predicable dangers and as long as we did everything by the book, we wouldn’t be in too much danger. When we approached the lower Essequibo, we came into contact with people and the mining areas.
Ever really worried or scared?
One night that Pip let out the loudest scream I think Ive ever heard! She’d had a nightmare that she was being attacked by a Jaguar and at the moment in her dream that the Jaguar pounced, her phone battery pack fell on her in the hammock. I thought she was being attacked!
On a lighter note, what was your most embarrassing moment?
I was wearing an old sports bra that I had previously used for pumping (breastmilk) so it had little holes in it, I forgot and when I wasn’t wearing a top, my nipple came through. Thankfully it was just Ness that spotted it! Pips may have been when she tried copying me and weeing out her hammock and ended up weeing in her hammock and on her sleeping bag!
Ever a point when you came close to abandoning the expedition?
Twice, when I missed Ran so much.
Can you tell us about one stand out moment in the 72 days?
When Ran and Ed were visiting us, I had been ill for four days and the day I felt better we all went down to the river and played in the water. I was holding Ran and Ed was jumping in and out the water, I have never heard a baby laugh so loud in my life! It is quite possible THE happiest moment in my life.
What have you witnessed about the best and the worst of our world and environment on your travels?
Some of the worst has been some backwards thinking men, who don’t see women in the progressive way that others do. I find that personally very hard. Also the effect man-kind has on the world, it was a huge eye opener going from pristine virgin jungle to mining and logging areas.
The best has always been the wildlife, the delicate innocents that nature has and her unwavering ability to claim things back. And the kindness of strangers, how people from all walks of life can open a hand out to you, in a time of need.
If you could head anywhere to paddle, where would it be and what appeals about the location?
I’ve heard some wonderful things about Sweden and its beautiful water ways but I don’t think anything could beat the remote jurassic feel to the upper Essequibo. I could only describe it as Eden, and I think in high water, it could still give the adrenaline junkie a little ride for his money! But it’s the feel of the area that just captivates.
What’s the one piece of advice you would give to somebody thinking of such an expedition?
Make sure you know all the dangers, how to mitigate them and know your abilities.
It was a remote journey which meant we had a medivac and medic on standby in case of emergencies, and you need to truly know your competence level, expeditions aren’t a place to ‘see if you can push your ability and try this epic waterfall’. The training is done at home or in places where you can get medical attention fast. Not in remote areas.
What are the qualities you’re looking for in your paddling partners on such an epic adventure?
If they can take a good joke! haha. No, it’s how able they are to see alternative points of view and how they work through conflict. I think Ness, Pip and I worked so well because we all really dislike conflict! We all try and talk about things as calm as possible. I think if youre team are open and can honestly, calmly talk through everything, you’re set!
What do you do to relax?
Work on my vegetable patch. I find having my hands in dirt really grounds me. Excuse the pun. That physically connection to the earth just hits my core and relaxes me.
Where do you see yourself in 20 years?
With a set up passive income and a great career around me so that I can focus the majority of my attention on setting up a charity idea I have and working with other charities to help make change.
I need to try my best right now to put my oxygen mask on so that later in my life I can help others do the same.
Quickies
If you could paddle with anyone in the world dead or alive who would it be?
My husband.
Which famous person would you most like to see play you in a film?
Keira Knightly.
Are you a bathroom/shower singer and if so what do you sing?
I used to be and I used to make up my own songs! After having a child, I now don’t have time!
Facebook or Twitter?
Instagram.
An ideal night out for you is?
Camping and toasting marshmellows or sausages on a fire. That was mine and Ed’s second date.
What one luxury item would you take with you on a desert island?
A Down jacket to double up as a pillow or just a pillow.
What would I find in your fridge right now?
Veg, baby meals, meat and a GU chocolate cheesecake that I’ve been waiting for my husband to leave to eat.
If we came to your house for dinner, what would you prepare for us?
BBQ! Because its an English summer and we have to make the most of eating outside! We only get to do it one week of the year. Haha.
What’s the most boring question you are often asked?
“Whats next?” Or “What was the best and worst moment/highlight.”
If you could be a superhero for one day, what superpower would you choose and why?
Flying or being invisible so I could move stuff around my families houses to freak them out. I’m annoying like that. My FAVOURITE thing to do is jumping out at people to scare them.
Favourite sport’s team?
Who ever is winning. Ha.
Favourite film?
Forest Jump/The Notebook/ 10 Thing I Hate About You. It really depends on the mood.
Favourite musical track?
Fight song by Rachel Platten.
What three words would you use to describe you?
Loyal, goofy and ambitious.
