Interview:
Peter Tranter
Photos:
Darren Clarkson King,
George Younger and
Ian Jones
When looking for an experienced guide to lead a group of paddlers making a first descent down an Himalayan river for his documentary, Steve Backshall naturally got in touch with Darren Clarkson-King, the only paddler to have paddled all the rivers from Everest and K2. Over a coffee at Heathrow, a plan was formulated for Daz to go to Bhutan and to look over the whole country to find an unrun river and to bring a whole team together that would be perfect for the documentary. The Paddler caught up with Darren in his hectic schedule to ask a few questions…
Darren’s bio
Darren is an adventurer whose personal philosophy asks what we can learn when we put ourselves in a place of adventure. Over the last 20+ years Darren has explored some of the worlds most challenging rivers. He specialises in running trips across the Himalaya in Nepal, India, Bhutan, Pakistan and Tibet. To join him for expeditions visit www.purelandexpeditions.com
Darren Clarkson-King
An interview with Darren Clarkson-King
What got you hooked on Himalayan kayaking specifically?
It really is hard to say. Over twenty years ago I took a study break and worked as a safety kayaker and raft guide in Norway. Then after some post-graduate study, I went to Nepal ‘on a gap’ few months. From early on I was running first descents and I have enjoyed exploring across the Himalayas. Nepal is a second home, but Ladakh and Bhutan are a close behind. Let’s not forget the time in Tibet and Pakistan… but thats another story.
Where and what was your first paddle and your first descent in the Himalayas?
My first Himalayan paddle was the Sun Kosi and then Balephi in Nepal – all these years later I still love these runs. I remember we stayed in a small tea house at the confluence. A Chicken laid an egg on my jacket. Well, that was a good breakfast!
First Himalayan 1st Descent?
The solo journey I took on the Budhi Ganga – a tributary of a tributary of the Karnali in the wild west.
What would be your ultimate achievement?
Really, just to keep doing what I am doing now. Showing people the amazing culture of the Himalayas. Riding classic motorbikes, running classic rivers and exploring.
One favourite river and why?
In the Himalayas, I am always drawn back to the Tsarap Chu in Ladakh, think I have done more runs than anyone else, more solo trips, the fastest descent and so much more. The Sun Kosi in Nepal still warms my soul. I love the white beaches and over the years seeing the village kids grow old and have families.
Apart from extreme kayaking – any other areas of paddling you would like to explore?
I’m really keen on gear, function and design – perhaps one day I will explore that….
Along with Sal and ‘Pringle’, you’ve recently become a TV personality, how did you get involved with, ‘The last unrun river of Bhutan’?
I was enroute to Chile from Nepal and a friend had shared a tweet from Steve Backshall to me, so I met Steve just outside Heathrow between my connecting flights. We talked over a cup of coffee. I had some ideas for Bhutan first descents, then went back out a few months later to Bhutan and did a recce, which covered the whole of the country. We chose the Chamkar Chu – a jewel of a river, that proved all we needed. The last true unrun river. Once the river was found, we put a team in place. Everything from cooks to drivers, paddlers to film crew. It was an exciting, mammoth task.
Tell us about one stand out moment in Bhutan?
It was great watching Steve progress, it was a unique trip and it was one of the most stressful I have ever done! In all my expeditions, deep gorges and first descents, I have always felt it’s just a personal pressure – even when I paddle with my long-term expedition partner, Crazy Dave. This time it felt greater, a crew that depended on my recce – and all that these things entail. It was a pressure built in layers. Even when you stripped one back, more kept coming. I don’t think I really relaxed until we got on the flights home.
What are the qualities you look for in a fellow team mate kayaker?
The ability to understand my sense of humour!
What rivers would be on your bucket list?
I would love to return to the Alsek, Stikine and one last run on the Zanskar. The Altai area in Russia is also calling…
Darren’s take on the Tsarap Chu…
“I know this river – it is part of me, the twists and turns and the history run through my blood. This not so insignificant river, is a small tributary, of a tributary of the sacred Indus. Still free flowing in Little Tibet, in Zanskar, in the north of India. The journey from Sarchu, the mystery, the ominous flow below.
“Flat and braided, flowing slow and soft, the Tsarap Chu gently makes its way to the enclosed canyon walls. At times no more than five-foot wide. The constriction forcing the water to dance and parade its raw power like no place I know.
“In places the canyon opens up, abandoned villages cling as wasted spaces of existence, before the walls close back and the river has no choice but to roar again. Dropping from bend to bend, cascade after cascade. Once a journey starts on this river – once you are part of this landscape, nothing matters. It is not a river that you can walk out of with ease.
“Should you not like the situation, you have no choice but to deal with whatever comes – it’s not a river where you can pause for breath, settle and feel relaxed. The Tsarap Chu encompasses everything – all your ingrained skills and thoughts become tied to the moment. Tied to each stoke. For your life depends on it. For 220km this high-altitude river jostles and jives. Kicks and bucks. It either kills your spirit or makes you crave more.”
Darren made this descent in 20 hour and 50 minutes with George Younger, along with audacious solo expeditions in a day and a half. Darren is a firm believer in the premise that ‘Adventure should not be sanitised’.
Bhutan Information
By Andrea Clarkson-King
www.purelandadventures.com
‘Unique’ is very much an over used word in travel writing, but for Bhutan, it’s justifiable. A green and mountainous country in the Himalayas, it’s the only Buddhist kingdom in the world. Governed by monks, politicians and the countries much loved royal family, the harmony and happiness is immediately apparent as soon as you land at the pristine and quiet airport.
Bhutan has a small population, spread out over breathtakingly beautiful valleys and soaring mountains. The people farm and cultivate the lower fields and fiercely protect the upper mountains, which are sacred. While many live an almost medieval existence in remote farms, the strong traditional Bhutanese culture runs through every subject, as does their faith and devotion to Buddhism.
Everywhere you go in Bhutan you find Buddhist dzongs, ancient fortresses where the year long calendar of festivals and ceremonies are honoured by the monks and attended by everyone. The homes and businesses are all richly decorated with traditional Bhutanese iconography and paintings. The educated and quietly polite people enjoy wearing their traditional dress, as well as spending a lot of time perfecting their archery skills – another beloved pastime that the Bhutanese are passionate about.
Bhutan is a quiet and peaceful country, although when it has to it can and has defended itself from invasion. Modern Bhutan invites visitors on its own terms, with an ethos of high cost low impact deterring backpackers and people wanting to party. Guests are made very welcome, while making sure that all respect the cleanliness (very noticeable) and local customs. It’s a very different experience to travelling anywhere else in the Himalayas.
Travelling across Bhutan’s vast open spaces and uncluttered roads seems pure and authentic in ways that are fast being eroded elsewhere in Himalayan Asia by mass tourism. The rivers of Bhutan are clean, and offer a wide variety from float trips to intimidating class 5. Proving time and again that kayaking and rafting is world-class.
weather:
Southern Bhutan has a hot and humid subtropical climate that is fairly unchanging throughout the year. Temperatures can vary between 15-30 degrees Celsius (59- 86 degrees Fahrenheit). In the Central parts of the country which consists of temperate and deciduous forests, the climate is more seasonal with warm summers and cool and dry winters. In the far Northern reaches of the kingdom, the weather is much colder during winter. Mountain peaks are perpetually covered in snow and lower parts are still cool in summer owing to the high altitude terrain.
Geography:
The kingdom of Bhutan lies deep in the eastern Himalayas. It is surrounded by the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) of China to the north, and the Indian territories of Assam and West Bengal to the south, Arunachal Pradesh to the east and Sikkim to the west. The tiny landlocked kingdom has a total area of 46,500 km² and spreads between meridians 89°E and 93°E, and latitudes 27°N and 29°N.
food:
The most distinctive characteristic of Bhutanese cuisine is its spiciness. Chillies are an essential part of nearly every dish and are considered so important that most Bhutanese people would not enjoy a meal that was not spicy. Rice forms the main body of most Bhutanese meals. It is accompanied by one or two side dishes consisting of meat or vegetables.
environment:
Bhutan’s pristine environment, with high rugged mountains and deep valleys, offers ecosystems that are both rich and diverse. The government has enacted a law that shall maintain at least 60% of its forest cover for all times. Today, 80.89% of the total land area of Bhutan is under forest cover and 51.40% (16,396.4 sq.km) of the land area falls under protected areas comprising of 10 national parks and sanctuaries.
